grimmy

The brocks are 16x9, bought them off herisites so most people will recognise them. Sold the cams as you know, may buy them back to fit at a later date when i sort out the engine. I went for the weitec coilovers, and i'm very pleased with the ride and handling, a vast improvement over the koni/pi set up i had. I'll sell the pi's but i wouldn't recommend them on the koni shocks, unless mine were just a bit shagged, it was a very crashy ride. I've had the weitecs on for a few weeks now and i highly recommend them!

Its taken me ages to sort out but i have at last got some coilovers on, had a partial respray and got the brocks on i bought off the forum ages ago! Too excited to wait for daylight to get pictures, so took some in Waitrose car park, she's super dirty but i'm pleased with the wheels. I wasn't sure they'd suit my car but i'm liking them a lot :D At the weekend i'll give her a good polish and a wax, then get some pictures in daylight.

She looks gleaming!! I'm suprised how good those wheels look on a rado too. Nice car you got there, flash red for the win.

£30 for labour... Seems a bit expensive for essentially four bolts. Its all done now though.

Looks very nice indeed. Wish mine looked as tidy as yours :)

Well i got it back today from the garage. They said they were suprised at the cost of the coil, £92! A whopping £143 fitted inc vat. Apparently the one on my car was for a 4 cylinder polo too, so no wonder it died :? Unbelievable price for a coil :(

I had a similar experience last year when someone crashed into the back of my VR6 while i was stationary at a junction. They offered me 1500 for it as their first offer which i refused and stated there was no way i could replace the vehicle for that amount of money and printed off some adverts for similar condition cars to mine, along with a picture of my car looking particularly good. They then offered me 3k as the second offer which i accepted. Its worth the little extra effort as they'll try to get away with as little as possible. However i'm still at war with his insurance company as i've not had my no claims back, or any compensation for the time i had to have off work with whiplash as the fella who hit me maintains it was obviously my fault :? It may take a very long time to sort it all out but it should work out fine in the end!

Is the coil for the distributor style vr6 the same as any other vw models? Mine failed today and i need to source one tomorrow. Just wondering if i can use one from any other models, like a golf? Thanks in advance.

my head has already been rebuilt 6 months ago which cost 980 alone. I was given a ball park figure of about 3k to have a block rebored and put in, if i supplied the block that is. Its a LOT of money...

Ah what!! That would be freaking amazing. I thought it was too cheeky to even ask, but thats a very real possibilty as the weathers getting better too. I'm tempted to get a second hand block and get it bored out with new pistons then slap that bad boy in. Just gonna get saving and sell a few organs then see how it goes. Could it be turned around in a weekend? We shall discuss.

I'm useless with spanners. That's why i'm so concerned about having to pay someone to do a conversion. The labour is going to be so damned expensive. Thinking i'll sell my spare wheels and just get saving over the next couple of months and get it done :(

Oooh that sounds promising. Just out of interest how easy is a 24v conversion? Surely you need new management as well. That gets even more expensive. What's a ball park figure for a 24v conversion, all in inc. the engine and fitting etc. I'm only young so money is very much an issue.

Just need a bit of input about what to do. I've had the head rebuilt on my vr about 6 months ago cos it was burning oil. Although it fixed one problem i had with a shitty valve it hasn't stopped it burning oil. Think the oil ring has gone, or the bore. I just got it back from the garage for their thoughts, and they've told me i need to either buy a short block or get it bored out. Both have they're advantages and disadvantages. I've spent loads on the car with new coilovers and exhaust etc so want to keep it. The guy at the garage is going to try and source a new block for me and get a price. His reasoning is that with a new block i get all new chains and tensioners and don't have to worry about it. Or i can get it bored out and replace all that sort of stuff. I don't really know much about all this sort of stuff yet. So just want to get opinions from people who've had to do the same thing. To add insult to injury the lacquer peeled off my rear bumper last week so now the car looks like a nail as well.

I've purchased some dynamat to do the doors, they do a door kit which was on offer in my local car audio place. But i'm going to nip out to b&q later to find the cheap alternative to compare and to do the boot. You don't get much dynamat for your money!

I'll get my coat.

Its shutdown by the FBI again?? Or is it a prank this time. I seem to remember it happening before but i forget why. Its not just me right?

Its as easy as any other car to roll the arches if you have the tools. Or you can grind the lip off but its kinda sketchy incase you go through. I need to get my arches rolled to fit my latest wheels on but haven't got round to sorting it yet. Got some silly quotes off body shops though, so best hope you know someone who knows someone.

I think thats what i have, but may have been the reference ones. You can get the tweeters to go in the original place by again cutting the plastic base that holds the original tweeters, and squeazing one of the infinity tweater cases in. They come with a variety of different fixings for the tweeters.

RIGHT! This weekend i'll try swapping the wires over on the cross overs. Regretting sticking them behind the dash now... Also i'll get some of this rubber undercoat in a can if its as good as the fella says. Sounds easy enough to do. But how easy is it to remove? I feel all motivated to get at it now but its dark and wet :/

Its not unusual in my experience. I've had two vr6's and spent several thousand pounds on each. My boss may aswell just pay my wages straight to the garage. This however certainly doesn't mean i'd even consider selling up for another car. I just tell myself that spending this money now means plain sailing later. Surely...

Thanks for the advice. I think i'll start saving for some audioscape door pods and focal speakers. But that will have to be a sideline to the engine problems fund.

Indeed they did replace the seals as they were very hard. Also a valve wasn't seating correctly so they refaced it or something. I'd presume they did a compression test after they'd reffited the head to ensure the problem was solved. The only option is to go and talk to them and see what they say. I can live with having to clean the spark plugs every month untill i can afford to get the work done that it needs.

Yeah it does smoke a bit, but only when you've say been coasting down a hill in gear. Then when you pull away at the bottem it puffs out a little cloud of smoke. Thats why i took it to get checked out and had the head rebuilt. Sadly it did not fix the problem. The oil consumption is much better as a result of the rebuild but it still uses about a litre every 700-800 miles. Yeah they did put a new gasket on, thats why i thought they should replace it free of charge. Didn't get a chance to call them this morning but i'll drop in after work on monday. With a picture showing just how much oil was building up. No-one got any advice about re-bore vs new block?

Well a month on and the dreaded misfire cropped up again. I started with plugs 2 and 6 which is where i had the problems before. To my horror i found a huge amount of oil sitting on top of the plugs again. All the bottem 3 cylinders 2,4,6 are covered in oil. Its hard to see from that last awful picture but down in the hole is a large amount of oil. It must be leaking down from the cam cover gasket. Having had the head rebuilt very recently should that be covered by them? Should i go and see them and ask that they replace the gasket? Obviously there is still the problem that there is oil getting onto the plugs 2 and 6 so i suspect rings or worn bore. Do i have many options here? If the bore is worn i thought that 1 and 6 are the main culprits. Would i be looking at getting it rebored or a new bottem end. Which would be the cheaper option? As you may be able to tell i'm fairly useless and just expect my cars to work :lol: I've already spent enough money on the car to accept i'm going to keep it and do what needs to be done to keep it running.

I'm just using some Infinity components up front in the standard door pods with no sound deadening. I can't really afford to go for audiscope door pods and focal speakers at the moment as i have lots of money to spend on my engine, i'm in the process of making a post about that too :( I'm entreagued to know if adding some sound deadening matting to the door would improve the sound. Would it be worth the effort? I do need to get some speakers in the rear of the car to give it a more balanced feel. But i don't think i have the room to fit yet another amp in because i use the boot to put shopping and skateboards in :oops: I'd have to sell my 2 channel for a four channel, and i'm quite attached to the genesis range. I remember reading that you shouldn't really have 6x9's on the parcel shelf if you have a sub in the boot because they're sort of battling against each other or something. Would it be a better option to stick with some hidden 6x4's in the shelf supports? I'm not too keen on hacking my parcel shelf apart and displaying some fancy speakers because i had my last car broken into outside my house and they robbed my entire sound system.