skinnyman9000
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Everything posted by skinnyman9000
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Whats with the price of Corrados nowaday?
skinnyman9000 replied to Joe M's topic in General Car Chat
To be honest I think some asking prices I've seen are too high. I mean the car might be 'mint' and such, but it's still a 15yr old car and in many cases asking £4+ is a silly. -
I'd still choose the new Renault Megane sport thingy
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If only this was a GL: http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2398289.htm Although its the first mk3 tdi ive found for sale in Derby in the past fortnight, so tempted to go and take a look at it anyway
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130k isnt tooooo high, and all the Ford TD's are 1.8's
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Quick, easy question. Should this car be this cheap? http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/ ... ?logcode=p That is all
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Someone has pointed me towards an astra estate. There is one on autotrader with just over 100k on the clock, 1.7 TDI, book figures claim 70mpg on a run and 55 around town. I would like to keep it VAG if possible though, purely because its what i know. There is an Audi 80 estate on there too, 12 months MOT, 6 months tax, 130k for £995
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Council claims.... (Pot holes)
skinnyman9000 replied to Fulltimejunglist's topic in General Car Chat
Im currently in the process of claiming after buckling 2 wheels and ripping my splitter off driving into what can only be described as a crater. The procedure seems different for each council, mine has a webpage dedicated to it. They requested all my personal details, date and time of the incident, details of any witnesses, exact location of the defect, photos of the defect, and photos of the damage. Once you have all that information its basically a case of putting it together into an email/letter, sending it off and waiting. Good luck to you though, i doubt i'll see anything but its worth a shot. -
Unfortunately, the time will soon come for me to part company with my rado. After 4yrs of ownership its time has come, and it will be broken for parts. So, it needs replacing with reliable daily. The requirements are: Economical Reliable Cheap to run/insure/repair/maintain Under £1k Decent size (could do with a delivery workhorse once the breaking begins) Something I can just turn the key and go without worrying about anything. So far I’ve been looking at things like mk3 golf tdi hatch/estate, Passat B4 tdi estate, Audi 80 tdi estate, BMW 5 series estate. I’ve never owned a diesel, or anything like this, up until now I’ve just wanted something nice rather than practical and cheap. A chap at work used to own an Audi 80 tdi, bought it with 200k on the clock and ran it into the ground (400k when it eventually died), and reckons they’re bullet proof. In the 200k he covered it never needed anything other than servicing and consumables. Chap across the road has a mk3 tdi, again says it’s been spot on. My uncle used to own a late 90’s 5 series beemer, again, bullet proof. Sooooo, basically after some thought/suggestions/inappropriate comments/banter. Cheers muchly
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I was also under the impression that the driver was a 1.8 petrol, hence why im confused by this ad, and the seller claiming its a driver tdi, pretty sure they didnt exist.
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Im looking to get a mk3 tdi as a daily and this has caught my eye. Its cheap, local, 3dr and looks to be in decent nick, but the owner claims its a driver tdi, i wasnt aware VW made a tdi version of the driver model. Also, when i do a number plate check it just says golf driver, with no mention of it being a tdi. Now i myself dont know very much about the mk3 models that were available, so can anyone on here shead some light? Basically i just want to know if this car is genuine or not. http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... pic=349894 Any help appreciated as always.
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Well ive taken some photos of the pot hole (crater) on my lunch today. Its 2M long, 0.5M wide and 15cm deep, and that depth is at the edge AFTER its been partially filled with gravel, so im pretty sure you'd be looking at 8"+ prior to it getting filled. Now i know i hit it at 7am, and they'd partially filled it and barricaded it off by noon, but at that size im sure it must have been reported prior to this, there's no way a 2M long crater magically appears overnight, my guess it had been getting worse for a long time. Well, ive got all the evidence i need so im going to put in a claim and see if i get anywhere. Im not holding out much hope tbh. I dont even want the tracking/alignment paid for, i just want the wheels repaired.
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Yes thats me on E38 too, i posted the photos on there after certain users comments. Its a massive pain in the ass thats not needed at the minute tbh, but there you go i guess. I should be able to get them repaired for around £80, then camber and tracking on top. Definitely pursuing this i think.
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Fingers crossed i'll soon be running a mk3 tdi on 50/50 diesel n cooking oil. 55mpg @ 90p/L, mmmmmmm
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Right then, here is the story. Was driving to work this morning, on autopilot as every day, when i hit a bloody massive pot hole! It was that bad i thought i'd ran over a small child. I got out the car to see a huge hole in the road, it must have been a good 6"+ at the deepest point. It was dark but i could see that my splitter has been ripped off. Not bothered as this is knackered anyway. So i carried on to work as it was too dark to see anything. Then i headed back to the pot hole on my lunch break to take photos incase any damage had been caused. I got there to find bollards around the pot hole and it had been half arsed filled in with gravel, so i couldnt get any photos. So i got home tonight and whipped off the wheels to find this: As you can see hitting the pot hole has completely fucked my wheels. Now here i have several issues. Can i claim without pictures of the pot hole? And if i can, how do i go about valuing a set of discontinued alloys that were bought 2nd hand? And if i cannot claim, how do i gain justice for the fact that ive effectively wrote off a set of alloys by something that was totally 110% not my fault?
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As above really. My advice is to check the matrix first, if it's not leaking then just swap the bypass valves for straight pipes, you can get these from your local vw parts centre as they don't sell the bypass valves anymore. I had the same issue past winter and it was the valves sticking
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Im still getting pretty hot temperatures when sat in traffic in the valver. Water was at 100 and oil at 118 yesterday, just idling along in traffic. Ive had similar temperatures ever since ive owned the car. I replaced the fan switch twice, the fan, radiator and numerous coolant pipes, non of which seem to make a difference. So ive given up replying on the system to take care of itself, and I want to fit a manual switch on the dashboard. Im aware the fan has 2 speeds. The first speed kicks in at 90 and keeps the car cool enough when moving along, but when im sat in traffic the second speed seems to kick in too late, and doesn’t stay on long enough, so it’s this speed I want the switch for. So…. Is there anyway to allow the fan switch to operate automatically on the first speed, and then I can override that with the manual second speed switch? If not: Can I fit a manual switch that controls both speeds, taking all automation off the fan? If not: Can I fit a single speed switch that switches the second speed on, so I’ll just have to not use the first speed. So, has anyone done any of the above? All help appreciated as always.
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Ta muchly!
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Since the online parts catalogue seems to be down i need to get hold of some part numbers. I need a new fan switch (the one at the base of the fan on the right hand side, sometimes called the thermostat/fan switch),and also the top rad hose, the thick barstool. Can anyone help me out with this?
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Ive been told that the relay controls the fan after engine shutdown, so shouldnt lead to an issue with the engine running as the switch link remains live? Not sure if this is true. Well since saturday its been running fine, i need it to happen again so i cant test to see if its the switch, but sods law has meant its been running ok. As soon as it happens again (if it does) i'll bring the connections at the switch it see if its sticking. I guessing it must be as there are only a few components in the fan system and they all seem to be working. Cheers for the help guys, i'll report back when i can
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Hmmmm. Well question, if this is sticking (and therefore the fan doesnt turn on) will the fan then turn on when i bridge the temp sensor pins? i need a test that will pinpoint the issue, something that will tell me exactly what it is. I know this is a big ask of a corrado :lol:
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Ive tried the paper clip across the temp sendor trick and the fan comes on, so im thinking it must be the fan switch? The fan doesnt come on at all sometimes, so im guessing that there is a fault inthe switch, bit bad as it was replaced last year! My plan though is to wait until the fan doesnt kick in and everything gets hot again, and then try the trick above. I guess if the fan turns on then it must be the switch?
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How easy is this and where abouts is the fan switch? I've no idea as the local garage replaced it last time
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Just to add another problem to the list, my alarm is now being dodgy. Lying in bed, it's been off twice now, both times it'll go off for 5 secs then be fine again. It's done this every night for the past 3 days. Time for a trip to the installers? With this and the fan issue at the same time it's peeing me right off
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Anyone?
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Recently my car has been getting stupidly hot, like over 110 water temps. I had a good gander around the engine bay yesterday afternoon and everything seemed fine, so i took it for a run. Gave it a pretty hard time and couldnt get the water over 95 or the oil over 110, the fan was kicking in and out when it should have been. However, i went for a drive last night and got silly temperatures again, i pulled over to discover the fan wasnt turning on at all, so the water in the radiator was just getting hotter and hotter. I replaced the fan (with a working 2nd hand unit) a few months ago, and the fan switch was replaced last year. Now to me it sounds like one of these things has gone again. The MFA seems to be displaying the correct temps, but then the fan just isnt working. Are there any tests i can do to determine what part of the system is failing? I dont fancy spending yet more money on a new fan if it turns out to be a knackered sensor somewhere. This car is testing my patience now, if this turns out to be expensive it may spell the end for it.
