Banana Man

Hi Rob I know it sounds obvious but has the fuel filter been changed at all as if it is clogged you wont be getting the correct amounts of fuel and give you the lumpy accleration and things if that is ok I would think it would be something like the coil pack as these are prone to going faulty by all accounts check it in the dark to see if you can see any tracking sparks they will normally leave white marks where thay have tracked before if it is that. Hope you get it sorted chap

Yeah the coat hanger trick works well pull the wires through the hole in the scuttle panel attatch the wires to the coat hanger and feed it down the wing until it pops back through the hole it's a real pain inm the arse but we've all done it :D

Kev I agree with you totally I think this thread has gone far enough now, I just wanted to get my point of view across with the experiences that I had with john which is the beauty of a forum like this as you can express your views on any subject. I just wanted to get across the fact that I had spent alot of money to get my car running well and to get it reliable again, I haven't said that you shouldn't go to john for work to have done on your car that is entirely up to you. But with my experience I wont be using his services again in the future. That is all I have to say on this subject now so Tom, nigel, jim or andi can you please lock this thread!!! Cheers Ant

Yeah I have got a vernier pulley but I have taken it off for the time being the ignition timing is set to 8 degrees before tdc at the moment as this is the spot where it seems to suit it best. But once I take it to the rolling road in crawley I am going to let them set the car up on the rollers and see what outcome I get :D

Migs timing up a car is very easy you just have to get the crank to tdc align the intermediate shaft so it is on cylinder one and align the marks on the cam pulley to the front face of the cylinder head, what john had done was put the mark from the standard pulley onto the vernier pulley in the wrong place so the cam was out of sync with the up stroke of the pistons hence why it was really down on power and sluggish. I can understand doing this by accident once but 3 times!!! and still not getting it right is appauling. Because of the mild duration of the cam I have in my car it is still possible to use the standard cam settings and still have a reasonable power output. I had put it to john that I wasn't prepared to take the car down to him for a fourth time for reasons stated above and tried to negotiate a deal with him for me me to take it to the a rolling road where the cam could be setup to the correct specs and for him to pay for the work but he just replied with the comment that it wasn't his fault and that it must be another fault with the car even though all the evidence provided contradicted his explanation. I would like to know now if he can admit that he has made a big error now with the timing of my car as before he couldn't. Thats all I have to say really on the matter The car is running fine now migs there is alot more punch and you can really feel the cam come in at around 3k rpm :D

I have had the tints on my car now for nearly a year and haven't been stopped for them yet but if it is true that they are indeed cracking down on tints then I could be in trouble!! Got any copies of that picture of the T5 with the tints if I kept a copy in the car and get pulled for them I would be able to have something to fight back with :D

Hi Chris I can tell you that the national day is still happening it should be a really good day as there is going to be plenty to do and see. Last year over 140 corrados turned up and hopefully this year we will see in excess of 150. Hows the car all painted yet??

John after going round in circles with you for over half an hour It was obvious that you were adament that you had had nothing to do with the fact that the cam timing was out, I wasn't prepared to make the 80 mile round trip for a fourth time to have exactly the same outcome as I had the previous 2 times I had taken it back to you which would risk my engine and charger further as the oil was contaminated with fuel so a trip like that could have jeopardised it all as fuel acts as a degreaser. I have given you plenty of chances to put things right since the work had been carried out by numerous phone calls I even had a fuel leak on to the manifold because of a faulty replaced jubilee clip that had been put back on the car. I dont think I am an unfair man I am just fed up with people taking me for a ride!!!! If I could get the car to run very well on standard timing why couldn't you????????

Yeah no problems Tom I am sticky to my words, everything I have put in my previous posts are the truth and I have evidence so if he wants to argue it then he can try his best!!

No he didn't! I left it down to him as I thought he new what he was doing but obviously he didn't as even I could get it right!!!!!

Recently I had some work carried out by john ( ex pd motorsport) which entailed the fitting of a flowed and ported head fitted with a piper bp270 high lift cam, as well as the porting and flowing of the inlet manifold and the T/B and a few other bits and bobs. My problem was that when the car was finished it seemed to be very sluggish I had darren test drive it and he agreed with me so I took it back with the correct timing figures for john to dial it in properly but the way he set it up wasn't correct and it was still very sluggish I took it away thinking that I had the wrong timing figures for it but now I have checked and double checked with the previous owner that the figures I provided were indeed correct, I have since found that I have been getting fuel in the oil due to the fact that the cam timing was indeed a long way out, and when I spoke to john about it he stated that he had fitted the parts correctly and that it had nothing to do with his work and that it was my fault for playing with the car, when all I had done was adjust the co pot back to make it run less rich as it was very high, and that would not cause the cylinders to be bore washed in the way that they had been doing ever since the work had been done he told me that I had no warranty on the work as the head provided was second hand even though I had it pressure tested and crack tested so it was all fine, and when the car was at PD we even did a pressure test which showed that all cylinders were spot on so that wasn't where the fault lied. Anyway I have spent the last 2 nights setting up the cam to the standard G60 timing and hey presto the car runs 100 times better than what john had set it up too which originaly was supposed to have been the standard cam timing so take this as you will but imho john doesn't know as much as he likes to think he does as even a minor diy mechanic can get better results and cost alot less as well, seing as I was charged £1188 which was £400 over the agreed budget I had spoken to him about I expected the work to be top notch, what I got instead was a whole load more problems and no come back!!! Take it as you will folks !! just thought I would put my opinion across about john!! Not such a god with cars after all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :(

rams It's not the fact that you can see out of the windows mate it's the light thats let in the cops will put the light meter on the outside of the window and take the reading if it's less than 76% then your in trouble. I'm not sure what to do myself as my car only lets in 20% light, I dont really want to have to change to a lighter tint as I think the ones that are on there really suit the car but I dont fancy having a hefty fine and having to take them off!! I'm going to see what happens if I hear of people being done for having the tints on their cars I will probably take them off straight away!! Worth keeping an eye on though!!!

The no1 you've marked nigel is the temp switch for the after run of the rad fan, the awitch is located just to the left of the ISV rubber mounting there should be a brown wire connected to it you can always tell this wire as if you touch it to ground the fan will cut in, then there's no2 outline that is the fuel pressure switch which is a 2 terminal plug whic is probably the 2 wires that are hanging free as it doesn't look like the plug is connected in the first 2 pictures. Hope this helps

If it is the cooling housing for the thermostat thats leaking that will be on the LEFT hand side of the engine looking towards it mike!! A common fault wth water leakage is the plastic housing on the front of the head where the top rad hose connects too it's made of plastic and they suffer from hairline cracks between the face and the 10mm bolts that attatch it to the block I ve had this problem twice now no big deal they cost about £15 look for signs of coolant leak around this area my car only showed signs of leaking when taken over a couple of thousand rpm's. Doesn't sound like a headgasket failure to me as there wouldn't be tseam visable you would just find a browny mallowy mixture on your oil cap where thye water has been mixing with the oil. Have a look for leaks around the radfan switch as this is another common area for leaks!!

I would be very careful about tints at the moment!! I dont know if any of you have heard about the light meter they are introducing to all the police forces around the country, but there was a case a couple of weeks ago when a bloke in manchester driving his chrysler voyager got pulled over and got told that he had 2 hours to get his car off the road and got given a heavy fine!! His car came out the factory with limo tints but any front windows ( driver, passenger and windscreen) have to let in at least 76% light in otherwise it is deemed to be illegal, the back windows dont matter how dark you go as it will be treated like a van. Anything over a very very light smoke is deemed to be illegal as alot of factory tints nowadays is already at the limit!! I have got 20% tints which only allow 20% light through which haven't caused me any problems so far but I wouldn't count on it lasting much longer as the police are apparently really cracking down on them and you can face upto a £1000 fine and have to have the tints taken out!!! BUGGER!!!!

There are still spaces left on the stand if anyone wants to get in contact with me I can arrange for you to be on the corrado stand :D ANYONE???????????

GsixT to get you on the tuning ladder I would firstly recomend getting the charger ported and flowed to a stg 4 to allow the airflow to go through the charger a bit more fluently and then a new pulley 68mm to bring the boost in a bit earlier (std pulley size is 78mm) for a bit more low down torque and also to reap the benifits a matched chip would help to get the fuelling right for the mods. These mods if setup correctly will be giving you near the 200bhp mark and will set you back roughly £1k. If you want to take it further than that then you can start looking at having your head polished and ported as well as the throttle body which will let your engine breathe a bit more you will lose a bit of boost through doing this but you will be getting more cfm ( cubic feet per minute) of air through the engine which will give you more torque. Then there is the option of uprating your fuel pressure regulator to a 3.5bar unit which will put less strain on your injectors all of this should be seeing your engine breathe alot better and give around 210bhp.

No one interested then!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome they have the illusive W12 that is going to be some game!! I might have to invest in the ps2 as well just for the game!!!

The sensor for the door comes off the switch for the curtesy light jim so you wont have any problems with them cutting the wire even if they did take the door off as it is attatched to the frame of the car not the door shell!!!

Try ecp I think they're £6 odd a piece plus vat

Thats W6dpo Nige :D ERROR!!! :D only joking!!! Yeah I second that get the proper platinums as you will probaby end up melting other lesser quality plugs and risk contaminating the bores by the plugs breaking up and falling into the bores!! Just my 2p's worth

Highpower are one of the leading UK distributers of NOS systems goto their website click here they have all the info on what to do and what costs are involved. I am personally looking at going the nos route in the near future and I will definately get a wet kit as the dry nos only injection can cause bad fuel to nos dissipation across each cylinder which can cause piston meltdown!! just as a guide you'll be looking at about the £700 mark fitted for a basic kit and then if you want the progressive controller on top of that so you have control over the rate the nos is fed into the engine you'll be looking at a further £400 odd quid!!

You've gotta love that digi fizz dash!!! I want I want I want!!! :D Cheers for the lift Daz by the way and I'll catch ya on Sunday!! :D

Yep I have to agree white is a top colour but a bit of a b@tch to keep clean just like nuget yellow!! :D I would probably rate alpine white my second favorite colour, nugget yellow being top of the list of course :D