DanVW

Since replacing my crank pulley, everytime I drive it I cant help thinking "did I do that bolt up tight enough" :roll: and must admit I still get very very worried about any odd noises! Guess I just have to do what I used to in the Golf, just turn the volume up and enjoy the ride :-)

I got a lift out Sunday morning to pick up the Golf from outside work jumped in and went to drive off when I noticed the battery light not going off, managed to nurse it 20 miles home and spent the afternoon replacing rotten bits of loom but its all working fine now :-) However think I am going to have to keep the Golf and the Corrado apart from now on as the Golf is obviously picking up bad habits! Far as the G60 goes its booked into the garage on Tuesday to have the drive shaft looked at so I think I might be lazy this time and get them to throw in a new oil pump, would rather do it my self but I don't think I am going to have time as I am taking it down to Plymouth next weekend and could really do without it leaving me stranded in jannerville! Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated as always :-) Cheers Dan

Looks like I will have to pester those nice parts people at my local VW garage again! Looking at the bently manual though its shows the pressure relief valve in the lower pump cover so will try and see if I can just get that insted of the whole pump, hopefully it will be nice and cheap :-) [/img] Tom, sorry I never got to calling you today, having problems with the Golf now! Spent the day sorting a charging problem but its all good now, will give you a shout Monday may need to borrow a wobble extension? :-) Cheers all Dan

Hey Crasher, Thanks for the ideas, It would make sense for it to be the oil pump pressure relief valve as all three times its happened right after you start the car, if I whip the sump off and drop the oil pump out do you think it should be fairly easy to release the valve? Or should I just get another new oil pump? Cheers Dan

Hi Matty, Not 100% sure for the 16v but both the G60 and the VR6 should be pushing 2 Bar @2000rpm as a mininum, am sure someone will be able to confirm for the 16v Cheers Dan

Only a guess but you could try the fuel pump relay there quite cheap and well easy to change :-) best of luck Dan

Thanks for the response guy's, I have not had new bearings and from what I can see from the recepts for work done on the car nothing has been done to the engine since it was rebuilt in 2003 and it had a new pump fitted then so any ideas why it might have gone? Also why would the oil pressure go up I assumed that if the pump was fu*ced the pressure would have gone down? p.s G-man see you on the open day :-) Cheers Dan

Hi All, Anyone ever had this problem? Its happened 3 times now since I picked up the car in June. Its not a major issue as all I have to do is drop the filter off and reseat the seal then do it back up an refill with synta silver, Only thing is I dont want it to happen when I am miles from anywhere! I have put two new filters on and I cant see a problem with the oil cooler/heater think I am going to have to change it anyway unless anyone has another suggestion? Cheers Dan

Just finished padding the bottom of the drivers door so the window doesnt rattle like some ford when you shut the door with the window down :-) then flushed with sucess went on to fix the electric mirrors and the fan now works on all settings insted of just 4, well happy time for a drive I think!

Hi all, Just a quick update, I replaced the Crankpulley with a new VAG one (new pulley includes the keyway!) so she is back on the road and legal as it passed the MOt yesterday! Cheers for all the help and advice am a happy G60 owner again :-) P.s can anyone recommend anywhere round Southampton I can get it tunned? She runs ok but floor it and it starts juddering when you get to 4000 rpm, have heard good things about Autotechnique but last time I spoke to them they had a 4 week wait... Could do with getting done this weekend really, anyone got any recommendations? Cheers Dan

Gutted! :-( but on the bright side it almost certainly now has to be the fuse box connections that the relay sits in! let us know when you find the problem Roger. Dan

Hi Mate, Can you give us a quick update on exactly what its doing at the moment, you said it starts 3 times then doesnt satrt 3 times, does that mean it starts ok when its cold? But not when its up to temp? Does the engine struggle to start or does it fire up on the first turn of the key? When it wont start does it missfire or struggle to turn over? Dan

Hi Mate, I could be wrong here but my understanding of the "whistle" effect is that its the result of the unused boost being forced back into the charger via the boost return thats why it only happens on full throttle gear changes, in effect when you lift off to change gear the engine (to which your charger is attached) slows down however the other half of your charger is suddenly hit with the unused boost causing the "whistle" noise. You should only hear this if you still have you boost return path! Cheers Dan

Not sure what wire's you mean any chance of posting up a pic? But as long as you have made a good soldered and heatshrink repair to the wiring I cant see it being a problem, however if you have just twised the broken ends together and taped it up this might be your problem? And as Tempest said the iginition switch is a very common fault for starting issues and can be a right bastard to get to the screw! But once its off the switch will just fall out I found the bset way was to look at the new ignition switch and hold it next to the one in the car so you get an idea exactly where the screw is. Any prob's give us a shout. Cheers Dan

Ignition switch? Just a guess but had to mine last month as it was getting harder and harder to start, after the change it starts first time every time (before my crank bolt worked loose and ruined the crank pulley and shaft of course!) :( Dan

Hi Mate, Have you tried checking for an air leak yet? Also may be worth checking the condition of your plugs and leads? are you getting spark on all of them, are they covered in soot, or soaked in petrol? What about the injector's wiring harness? What sort of condition are your Dizzy cap and rotor arm in? May be worth checking these simple things first. Good luck with it! Dan

I would check all three of them tbh, but the one I had the issues with was the one that runs to the right of the fpr I think its the fuel feed line to the top of the lefthand end of the fuel rail.

Dont forget to drown the bugger in duck oil or plus gas first that should make it a little easier to get out too! Good luck Dan

Sounds like a good idea, don't know if you have changed one before but there is a little screw that holds the ignition switch in once its unplugged and the cover is removed, it can be a right pig to get at!! But a little time (upside down) and an even littler screw driver and you can get the bugger out! Good luck Dan

Hi Mate, Yea that was me in the golf on sat (never let me down yet unlike my C!) I spent quite a bit of time admiring the bling under your bonnet :) shame we didn't get a chance to have a chat but I was still hanging from the night before! Anyway back to business, I ended up replacing all my engine bay fuel pipe work as they where all split and perished (common fault on G60's with the original 15yr old rubber apparently) the worst one connects to the fuel rail right next to the FPR that bugger was pissing optimax all down the back of my engine and on to the exhaust manifold! :shocked!: not good! It sounds like you have a leak in this area so it might be worth a check? Cheers Dan

Hi Mate, I had fuel pissing from the same place, it turned out to be the supply hose to the fuel rail had a hole in it caused by the cr*p hose clips that had been fitted, the excess was wound in on the inside of the clip not the outside (as with jubilee clips) so as you do them up they cut into the pipe! Worth a check I would say unless you have already changed them in which case just ignore me! P.s you C looked very nice on sat just wish I could have brought mine!

No worries mate will be snowed under sat morning anyway due to unforeseen circumstances, cant really do much on the 60 till I get the correct key from VW anyway so will make a start on flatting off the edge and corner of the shaft, *btw thanks for the offer Crasher very kind of you! but the shaft doesn't look too bad on the face just round the edge so as above I am going to try and carefully grind it flush and hope for the best! Will keep everyone posted as to progress thanks again for the advice an top tips! Cheers Dan

Have just added a few shots of the keyway I have, think it’s fairly obvious that VW parts department don’t know their EKTA from their elbow! :roll: Anyway cheers for the suggestions but unfortunately as the crank pulleys are marked both to line up with the intermediate shaft and the bottom cam cover, cutting a new slot in the crank is out of the question unless I cut a notch 180 degrees out on the pulley too, not sure if I have the tools or the experience to attempt it really! :oops: You around sat before the meet tom? No worries if not I will bore you to death with it in the afternoon anyway :D Cheers all Dan

I was thinking everyone would say don't dick about just slap in a new crank shaft but its very encouraging to hear someone else say they just reground the end of the shaft and put a new pulley on it! The only problem so far is that I think VW Parts department have given me the wrong keyway as its half the size of the notch in the crank shaft!! :roll: will find out on sat morning when I get the new pulley. Thanks for the advice everyone but another quick question should the keyway be a snug fit in the crank shaft slot? As I guess it should be! Cheers all Dan

Hi All, My G60 has been off the road for a month or so now, due (I guess) to a certain garage re-using the (stretch) crank bolt during an engine rebuild in 2003! Now I have managed to get everything off (was able to undo the crank bolt by hand it was that loose!!) It's quite clear that when the keyway sheared it ruined the pulley and chewed the end of the crank shaft, however I would just like to know if anyone here has either cut a step out of the chewed crankshaft and made up a custom keyway to fit it? Or maybe a blob of weld and ground it back flush? The local crank specialists and engineering firm's I have spoken to regarding this idea has said "Nope just pay us to fit a new crank!" but to my eye's the damage to the Crank shaft doesn't look that bad, can I have some more experienced opinions please? (Ref attachments) P.s all those going to the south coast meet on sat see you there :-) Cheers Dan :D