DanVW

Any ideas what the pipe in the attached photo is for? My best guess so far is for testing and setting the CO pot upwind of the cat, but it would be nice if someone can confirm :-) Cheers Dan

Out with the 800 grade wet an dry and build up that w@nk1ng wrist mate! lol

Not sure if this has done the rounds before but had to post this link!! http://www.driversfound.com/scirocco/history/bimotor/

Hi grimmy Sorry to hear your bad news mate :-( I hope they throw the book at the selfish tw@t! Hope you feel better soon!

You do (for some reason) have to set the timing while holding the revs at 2-2500K (any more and your using boost!) But the above guide is for checking and adjusting the CO pot, not the timing! As for not having a cat then @ step 5. Monitor the CO % level from the sniffer pipe upwind of the catalytic convertor. Adjust the CO pot so that the CO level is 0.07%, +/- 0.05%, with the HC levels below 120ppm. You can put the sniffer pipe up the tailpipe rather than upwind of the Cat.

When you get the garage ask them if they have an exhaust sniffer then get them to check the timing and ask them to set the co at the same time as below: 1. Let the car run and warm up. Oil temp has to be at least 80*c, best if the rad fan has cycled at least twice. 2. Rev your motor past 3000rpm three times for at least one second each time. This lets your ECU get out of warm-up/coldstart mode. 3. Unplug your blue coolant temp sensor, on the main radiator hose in front of the head. The ECU is now in diagnostic/tuning mode, and it will save new values inputted to it as a new baseline of initial settings. 4. Set timing to 6*BTDC. Advancing or retarding it from there does nothing but screw up how the car runs, this is the baseline from which the ECU will advance or retard timing electronically. 5. Monitor the CO % level from the sniffer pipe upwind of the catalytic convertor. Adjust the CO pot so that the CO level is 0.07%, +/- 0.05%, with the HC levels below 120ppm. 6. Adjust the idle screw according to your cam. Stock cam = 850rpm, 260 cam = 950rpm, 268cam = 1050 rpm. This can be +/- 50rpm. 7. Plug the blue temp sensor back in. The ECU has now saved your values, the car is properly tuned, and you can go play. (Above taken from the Bently bible :-)

As I just mentioned in another (very similar post) I had exactly the same problem on my G60 last summer but was told that during the engine rebuild it is possible that the flywheel could have been put back on 90 degrees out! I checked that number one was TDC then used the crank pulley, cam pulley and rotor arm marks to time it up and its been fine so far :-) Am going to get it tuned correctly as soon as I find a rolling road close to Southampton that is recommended.. Any ideas anyone?

Check your dipstick holder is not broken too! Can lead to over filling the oil just ask Dub_Nut_G60 ;-)

The flywheel marks on my G60 appeared to be all over the place when I had to replace my crank pulley after the crank bolt worked loose last summer! Ended up just using the cam, crank and rotor arm marks to set it up to TDC and its been fine ever since, although I do feel it wants setting up properly at some point its certainly not slow! :twisted: Was told at the time that the flywheel can be put on 90 degrees out thus meaning that the marks will all be out of aliginment? Sounds about right going on what I have discovered so far on my motor :roll: I found a set of Goodrich hoses on the rear brakes last weekend... Standard rubbers on the front though! :?:

Well done Nikki and Zed!! Shame I missed him last visit :-( Looking forward to seeing him some point this summer though! Dan

That looks wicked mate :-) bet she rides like a dream now! Cant wait to see her up close! Have a few new bits waiting to go on mine too going to be a busy weekend if all goes to plan :twisted:

its not an install or at least my copy isnt just go to http://www.acrobat-ib.com/index.asp?PID ... EAodvS_XWg And download the reader :-)

Just get a pdf copy of the bently manual off egay mine only cost a fiver and its saved me ££££££ :-)

Ok as you can see from the pic you just need to remove the coat hook and screw then the hidden screw halfway down the trim, then pull off the plastic cover on the seatbelt (number 3) and unbolt the top seatbelt anchor :-) Hope it helps Dan

Sorry mate I am desperatly trying to remember how it came off :oops: I have a sneaking feeling that there might have been another screw under the rear side panel, as when I took mine off it came out fairly easly will have a closer look tonight to see if it comes back to me :-)

Pull the coat hook off and undo the screw underneath then pull off the plastic that covers the seatbelt adjuster (I think!) there is another screw halfway down under a plastic screw cover too! Its fairly obvious once you get that lot off and not that hard because I managed last summer when the sunroof came out :-) Cheers Dan

This happened on mine when I drove it home from London after buying it :-( sorry mate but it a pain in the ass to fix as well, you need a sun roof repair kit from VW part# 1H0 898 014A it comes with both guides, you will need to remove the sunroof to fix it! Took me 6 hours start to finnish best to put aside a day to do it and take your time dont go breaking anything else! There is a repair guide on here somewhere a search will find it best of luck Oh yea and VW quoted me £800 to fix it (w*nk$^s) Dan

Take it to Stealth save yourself the hassle!! ;-)

Just to let everyone know a new set of leads from GSF sorted the problem this morning! :-D Cheers for the offer of coil Tom and jon_g60 :-) let me know if you want a hand looking at the Golf on the weekend? Would love to see it in the flesh! Cheers all Dan

Hi Mate, I had the same problem with my G60 a few weeks ago, take the expansion cap off turn it upside down and check that the rubber o-ring is in place and has not rolled up on one side when this happens the system cant presurise so the coolent boils over and shoots out the side of the expansion tank.

How did that FPR pipe look? Also have you checked the TB switches?

Check your FPR pipe from the inlet manifold

Ok so I have now sorted the tension on the throttle cable and checked the FPR pipe and both are ok, the garage have also confirmed that there are no exhaust gasses in the coolent so looks like this weekend I will be mostly replacing my leads and coil, So suggestions please? I have heard that the Beru or Magnecor ones are good but can I get them from GSF? and do they come in blue silicone? (bit gay I know but I would like them to match the silicone hoses that will be going on in the summer) :oops:

Yea it cant hurt to try and sort the tension on the throttle cable, should get a new one really but as always there are more important things to buy! :-) will check the FPR pipe, swap that coil and get the coolent tested tommrrow that will give me a much better idea whats going on :-D

You had your leather pinched!? :shock: