Grrrrallye

Does anyone make these new these days? Was thinking of going carbon as the body shop have just dropped mine and watched it explode into about 3000 bits. I know Spoonfed makes them but is anyone in the UK stocking them? If not i will have to get one from spoonfed and a carbon spoiler

Thanks guys. Are they a machine screw type thread or more like a wood screw? To be honest, i really did think for what I paid they should have been in the box with the new lamp holder but what do i know?

Try acetone in the place of your WD40, it should breakdown and superglue. Nail polish remover if full of the stuff if you cant find and neat

Does anyone know what screws are used for the above? I have a new cover and lamp holder, but the body shop have either lost or mixed up the screws to fit this into the tailgate. I really just need to make progress with one part of the car this month

Hi all, I have a 6 branch manifold that is US made. It has a stabbing on one of the branches for a sensor of some kind I assume. I don't need this port and so i'm looking to block it off but have no idea what size thread it might be. Any ideas anyone? I thought it may have been M14, but the pitch is wrong. Image for reference: Thanks

There is quite a bit to add a second bat correctly. Some of the things you will need to factor in are: 1) A relay to drop out connection to the battery when the ignition is off - not required but I would 2) Fuse protection for your feed from the alternator to the new bat. 3) A local dis board would be good so you can individually fuse down each component fed from the circuit. 4) Depending upon the type of battery used, some form of ventilation. 5) The output from the alternator will need to be checked as you will be upping the load. 6) I have seen it done that you can put a monitor on the primary battery so that charge will only be alowed to the secondary bat once there is no charging load on the primary. 7) If your stereo is pulling high load, a power cap will help to reduce the load on the cap. Hope that helps - try some camping and touring websites for some useful info - I have found there info to be better than some ICE sites

I am putting the car back together slowly and, where I have a wing vent, I would like to make this functional as opposed to just a fashion feature. My initial Idea was to go down the route of BMC CDA and turn the inlet hose through 90 and punch it through the inner wing so making the outer wing an inlet plenum. - the only issue i could see with this was the possibility of water ingress to the filter as the pickup would end up very close to the opening to atmosphere. My second idea is to use the stock air box, blank off the existing intake end but to come sideways out from the box and through the inner wing into the void between the wings. This separation from the vent itself I'm hoping will prevent water making it into the filter and also allow a large pickup of cold air into the box. What are peoples thoughts and ideas?

I fitted a set of these to the other half's TT and found them to be well made and as stated above with a nice chunky thread so they wont damage easily. This was however also the down side in so much as locking them in place with the chunky thread, I did find that they would move a bit if you were not very careful. The only other thing I found was on the TT/MK4 platform, the rear springs were fully compressed with the car static, this will not let help the longevity as you would expect. - This may well not be an issue on the C but thought would mention it

I will have to keep that in mind, but I would like to try and use the ones I have. If you get a message later asking how much, you will know it has not been a good night in the unit

MZpog - that's em. Jim, that's exactly what I'm thinking. - I'm starting to think that maybe I will need to grind the inpro light sockets out a little so that I can use the VW clips, I can't really see anyother way of getting it sorted at the moment. Thanks guys

Gents, I have a set of In.Pro headlights that I have had stripped down and the innards painted. - All good The issue I have it has been an age since I split the units and now cant work out how to put them back together. To further complicate the issue, I am having to rehouse these in the stock headlight housing. I have all the parts from the In.Pro and almost all the parts from the stock lights. One of the issues is that the push in white nylon grippers don't appear to fit into the back plate of the lights, do I need to open these up a bit are the stock and In.Pro a different size or am I I missing something? I also have 2 white nylon adapters that fit over any of the VW nylon clips, and fit into any of the 3 sockets on the back of the light plate but i dont know what one it should be on!! Can anyone shed any light on this please? Thanks

Just got my lights back from the paint shop. Long story short, I got these second hand on the forum and they were not in a great state when they turned up so i decided i would have a play with them and see if I could make them look better on the car this is how they turned out: The problem I now have is that I need to get the back plates into the old Hella housings as the In.Pro ones were battered and this is where my issues start. The older Hella plastic clips do not appear to fit into the sockets on the back of the light plate, I also have what appear to be 2 extension sections that fit over the mounts inside the light housing but i have no idea which of the 3 mounts they fit to, does anyone have any ideas? Further more, the mechanical drive for the dip control is spinning in the socket and appears to have stripped the nylon out. I'm hoping I can get this to fix with some super glue unless anyone any better ideas?

Not sure if its what your looking for, but I have a stock manifold, down pipes and cat of they are any good to you?

Looking for a new sunroof mech as mine has snapped (shocker I know!) with or without motor, I don't mind. Also need a front bumper hanger/bracket part no: 535 807 193. One screw for the HT lead holders. Its the top hat shaped one. I'm sure there are other bits, I will add them when i find them Thanks

I will have to go hunting and have a look. I'm going to have quite a lot to pull through

I'm just about to start my stereo install this week. I have had a quick look but was wondering where people have broken through from the engine bay into the car for power cables etc? My intention is to locate the amp in the wheel well with a false floor so was going to run along the center tunnel to the rear of the car. Any advice? With the speaker cable runs, I understand that the C speaker feeds run from the head unit up to the tweeters, then to the doors. My intention is to mount my crossovers under the glovebox and the fuse board. I want to use the existing cables to tow in new cables from the crossovers. Are the existing cables loomed or can i use them to tow? Thanks Alex

Standard VR6 parts clear out Various parts clear out Starting to clear out the parts I no longer require, there will be updates as I have the time to list them. I don't really know what some of these parts are worth so if I have pitch too high, please make an offer. VR6 Stock Manifold and down pipes - ?50 VR6 Stock CAT - ?50 These would ideally collected, but could be delivered at buyers cost as they weigh about the same as a small moon. VR6 Front engine trim / HT stay - ?13 delivered VR6 Rear engine trim / HT stay - ?15 delivered VR6 Engine cover, one clip is broken off but I have it and it will glue on, needs a good clean - ?15 delivered If anyone has more than one of the trims, I will knock some of for postage. Collection is welcome on all parts from CT3 3BY I have not used this Panjo before so the click button is not the right price. List Date: 5/6/2015 For more info, click here to view the original listing: Standard VR6 parts clear out -------------------------------------- On Sale For: ?100.00 --------------------------------------

Various parts clear out Starting to clear out the parts I no longer require, there will be updates as I have the time to list them. I don't really know what some of these parts are worth so if I have pitch too high, please make an offer. VR6 Stock Manifold and down pipes - ?50 VR6 Stock CAT - ?50 These would ideally collected, but could be delivered at buyers cost as they weigh about the same as a small moon. VR6 Front engine trim / HT stay - ?13 delivered VR6 Rear engine trim / HT stay - ?15 delivered VR6 Engine cover, one clip is broken off but I have it and it will glue on, needs a good clean - ?15 delivered If anyone has more than one of the trims, I will knock some of for postage. Collection is welcome on all parts from CT3 3BY I have not used this Panjo before so the click button is not the right price List Date: 5/6/2015 For more info, click here to view the original listing: Various parts clear out -------------------------------------- On Sale For: ?100.00 -------------------------------------- Mobile friendly version: Various parts clear out Go Mobile: Download the free Panjo iOS app now!

Yeah, at that price, i would do the whole car

Looks like its coming in around £145 - anyone know any suppliers?

EJ - your post says about a 36sqm bulk pack for around £100, do you mean 36sq foot?

No worries. I didnt make it as it happens, I decided to rip the roof lining and sun roof out of the C and then throw my back out for a giggle

By lagers tape, I mean the stuff they use on air plant duct work, its a silver foil tape, very sticky. With regards to joints, I assume that I will end up having to butt 2 sheets together in places?

Good call on the gloves. I'm guessing that covering the joints with lagers tape would help seal things a little better?

Thanks gents. Nice work lining out your floor EJ. Not sure i have the patience to go quite that far, but having spent the bucks on Genesis amps, Rainbow speakers and audioscape door pods I should make some effort. Also I always think it make the car sound more solid and so a bit more classy if you line it out