GazzaG60

not worth iit i dont think. well depends on which charger you use but you gotta think about moving things like alternator, mounting the charger and all the other issues that come with any forced induction setup. Glader cannot flow what a highpower 16v FI will need i dont think. bbm twin screw is the one for a 16v i think. more cost than a turbo job.

the abf is a tall block-weaker rods. you need a uppy bonnet to fit it too. the 9a has short rods-bit stronger. yuo need a better management system or some good tuning to get rid of the NA timing and fueling. will get costly id say. im thinking about it soon but im starting with a G60. i totted up just over a grands worth of bits needed and as we all know you can double your estimates.

are you sure it doesn't go above this. have you got a secondary gauge or are you just looking at the MFA which may be faulty have you tried a new black temp switch or at least cleaning it.

the passat locking handles aren't that much cheaper than a corrado one so it aint worth doing that if its a cost thing. get the rears and the locks n fit um and screw out the white adjuster a couple of turns. test the lock. if it locks and you can still open the door screw it back in a fraction until this stops.

compression will be high. maybe too high for the forced induction route or it might make a interesting 10:1 ish standard pulley G60. Mounting the injection is slightly different. your gonna need a digi 1 loom and sensors. most can be made to fit easily but im not sure if the knock sensor will bolt straight to a KR block. your gonna need blue CTS o2 probe knock sensor ISV (if different) fuel rail, injectors, regulator. Throttle body(unless you are gonna run a dump valve. The KR dizzy will work with Digi 1 so thats ok. gonna need stuff like pulleys etc. would be easier to buy a full engine and even easier to swap the car for a G60 if thats what you want problem with this is you are taking away your biggest asset in airflow. A G60 is toss at flowing air due to 8v and couterflow creating tight ports. ultra porting will only take it to std 16v flowrates. chuck a turbo on the valve with some engine management and youll make greater,nicer more usable power than a G60 conversion ever could. if thats what your after.

i had same issues. it drops itself. you have to push into floor for clutch and itll engage itself if held down. first id rebleed and see what happens. then id change both cylinders if you can afford. i did the slave first and all that happens is it puts stress on the master that then dies too if it aint already. i found the master easier to do than the slave. be careful not to effect the cables on the box when doing the slave.

sam at sns said something like the following when i asked him some ECUs can put more fuel in when knock is detected. cold start is a pain whe its removed. although does it get that cold over here. good mapping will overcome isv issues. this is in place so that eeegits can put crap fuel in and not pop it. basically prevention (ie good mapping) is better than a cure. also some ECUs bleed boost over 0.8bar so your loosing some over that.

check the harness on the probe. check the 2 plugs and the spades haven't slipped out. check the lavinder wire isn't broken and the earth. probe needs a v good earth. these wires get hard with heat over time and are brittle so be careful. get a af gauge. i bet you see nothing on it when its popping. the system is dumping fuel in at this point as it think your lean. ive had issues in the past with this. a bad probe creates a bad transitional period to the map and brings on lots of spluttering. also like the others peeps have said the Blue temp sesor. clean the crap of the bottom of it too when its out.

i have mine sat in a single tim pod on top of the dash. it fits in the corner nice in front of the speaker. the pod cost around a fiver. it puts the gauge in line of sight which is what you want when doing 15+psi the gauge is a autogauges blue jobbie. ill try n get a picture tonight.

he aint no manc. hes too tight to be a manc

the CO_Pot has 2 functions intake temp fuel trim. the 2 outer pins should be static. standard setting is around 500 IIRC middle is temp. have anothe try. i may be wrong but a fluctuating CO_pot is indeed fluct

tis the other way around. a 16v on a G60 block makes about 6.5:1 compression. maybe enought to start it. you need the flat pistons with cutouts to fit the valves as they come down at a angle compared with the 8vs straight. thhese also lift the compression to around 8 or 9:1 You need ot do lots more to fit the G lader to the 16v. a turbo would be a easier fitment and probly better to cover the hight revving 16v unless you plan n running higher compression and less boost say a 70mm pulley.

injectors can only push so much before the spray becomes a jet. also you just cant up the pressure. 3.5 bar reg is towards the limit on the stock fueling system

the mpg is a calculation and id expect that more or less any mode would put it out as the calcuation is based on the standard parameters of the car

im on volkspeed front. v v good.

if the 4 are equal length though the exhaust gas slugs should all more or less line up in the exhaust-in theory

could be the tensioner on the charger or maybe a bad charger bearing. pop the bonnet n have a listen. lots of G60 make rather horrible belt noises as the tensioner is too tight or starting to wear. check alternator too.

my scirocco had a lift pump. it had a storm engine in it with the big external and a internal lifter pump.

the goldline is the supersport. its pretty good. best described as henny says. avoid any piston marking though. warranty is strict to say the least. back ones have started to squeak every now n again. ive been runnig them for 2 yrs nearly now.

is he the good looking one of the bunch too? :lol:

the f plate's still pullin at over 150k anyone got a set of side strips for a big bumber model they wanna get rid of.

did you use a ATP manifold or a old TT one or something else? got any pics please

i want to go turbo. however much i like the instant G lader. i would sacrifice it for higher top end better low down grip better reliability what management system did you use.

so i can get the head over here. How about the block. is it the ABA engine code. im on a front mount already so half way there. cheers

i wanna do it myself. i like to mess. a few pointers maybe a good help. pm me with a cost for a head as im not sure where to get one from and i believe you can sort them.