GazzaG60

this morning i have removed the ISV and bunged up the hole, set the idle and itll start and idle and run. if i go on the brakes heavy itll satall as it drags from vac(i think) So it deff looks like my ISV is fucked. anybody know which ones you can use on a G60. .

right i did the carb cleaner and loads of shit came out. car now runs even worse though. it wont idle properly at all. i cannot reverse as it stalls. as soon as i go on the clutch or if im at low revs like 1500rpm you can feel it bog down and/or stall. itll be undrivable to work tomorrow unless it fixes itself overnight. :( im gonna do a proper vac line check tomorrow and maybe remove the ISV and set the idle on the screw and see if that works. any other suggestions. cheers

i run a 65mm. ive heard of issues like seal wear due to heat, rebuild times etc but i am yet to have a serious problem with the 65mm. the charger is due a rebuild but its done 30k since the last on so. response on the 65mm is good even from very low revs. a lighter flywheel with the 65mm should have the car up and away very well indeed from 1500rpm or so. the 8v needs boost at 8:1 to make it fly the more the better with the right tuning. i change gear around the 5800rpm mark as the head is runnnig out of puff by then.

you dont want a TT kit the turbos too small. You want a T304E onthere. Get aATP manifold from the states also with the lower compression a 2l would be favourable for better low end.

yes you can but its as easy to just remove it and put filters on the ISV and oil breather(or catch can) if you cut the pipe after the oil breather towards the charger you could just filter it there. get a charger block off plate from Darren@GWERKS. fits a treat

yeah i thought about looking at that. couldn't see anything though. whats best to clean um with? can you ohm test um or something to see if its ok?

i got this problem just started wonder if anyones had anything like this before. the car (G60) has started to stall when i go on the clutch or slow using a gear. if i take it very easy it wont do it. i mean like settle the revs at 1500 or so then go on clutch. ive had a check of the vac lines they seem ok. ill have another thorough check though. iv tested function and connection but not continuity on the idle switch. ill test that too. anybody any ideas cos it all looks ok. could it be the fuel filter? its only 6 mlnths old so should be ok. anybody please? its pretty shittifying whn it stalls mid corner and PAS goes AWOL

the front part has changed. it now has 3 switch holes of which one is blocked by a plug that vw sell thats the same shape as the switch. it too uses a o-ring and clip to hold it in place. you need. flange. 3x o-ring new blue switch new black switch plug for 3rd hole. 3 new retaining clips. that does it proper and will prevent leaks around that area. remember to clean the block up first so the sealing face is a good fit.

get 2 rear handles and 2 locks. fit both items and adjust the striker till it opens the door

my u-bend was sourced for £80 with the standard hose to the intercooler. i agree it was a good buy. it was from awesome sourced for me by their friend H100VW (gav). this was in the day before front mounts on G60s became common which i expect has put the prices up somewhat. i got U-bend £80 gasket set with bolts was around 30 quid from the dealers. core 600mmx160mmx40mm with alloy ends. ebay-£80 samcos-2 reducers for cooler -30 for pair so ill correct that £220 in total. bits can still be improved but it works a damn sight better than the standard one. i said this before but ill try n put some pics up so you can get a look.

start with the intercooler. From what i can gather Water is good if the charger aint cool enough or if more timing is required or if its detting. water can subdue det and allow for more fuel but if it isn't needed can subdue the explosion. kev may be able to enlighten us more on this as he has run it so has first hand on it. id go for a better cooler first. doesn't have to be a Golf one you can use other cores but a U-bend and ascosiated bits are needed to do it properly. presentation to the throttle body from the cooler end can be done easily by cutting and using the left over hoses from the res box to the IC in pipe. it cost me 180 to do the full job. that includes factory u-bend and new gaskets n bolts for it and the samcos to finish the job. i was pretty lucky that my measurments were good fist time. i got a first attempt fit. it took around 6 hours to do all in all.

ive looked ito this too. i opted against it due to heat, clearence and lag issues. you cannot get a big turbo in there a t3 super 60 is what is regarded as ideal-good for 220hp or so. you may need to shave the manifold(inlet) maybe space out the turbo on another flange and probly beat back the firewall. then heat sheild it all again. the counterflow 8v is pretty laggy unless you get a small exhaust side then your fighting against the engine at 5500-6k what i worked out id need to start with is t3 super 60 atp manifold. sump with oil tapping. oil and water feeds/returns intercooler piping downpipe with flexy section-to stop bolts backing out of manifold. dump valve. new SNS chip-no lag very important if you wanna keep your motor for longer than 2 minutes. more uprated mounts. this would go along with the current FMIC 3.5bar reg red tops 2.25 system(id have 1 of the 2 boxes removed). id think about upping the compression ration a tad by having the head skimmed then verier it up with the standard cam in. avoiding det may be a problem though

Fuel smelss are usually related to leaks. check fuel line near throttle body that goes from end of rail to pressure switch end near pressure reg Fuel filter carbon can connections. A clogged cat could cause this as a knock-on effect to the O2 probe passing away. whats the AF gauge say? if you aint got one put a multimeter on it and check for fluctuating voltage. does it run badly, does it chug? try unplugging the probe at the harness behind the 1st runner of the intake on the engine mount below the clutch slave. how does it run then? check the wiring at the harness for brittle/broken wires. check the heat wires to the probe as a non heating probe will take a long time to warm up and it wont work properly till its warm. change the blue TPS on the water pipe from the head to top of radiatior. i run a cat replacement pipe. get rid of any bad exhaust bits as they aint doing it any good.

US spec?

1. take care when moving the cables about. 2. dont loosen the cables just the mounts on the box. 3. Dont break/round a line 4. bleed it well after 5. order a master to fit the week later for when that goes

supersports come with 1 spanner or should do. shame you need 2 to lock off properly.

thoses squeaky type noises are common on the G60 . i dont think ive heard one that doesn't make a few noises from time to time. belt material can make these noises as can a charger tensioner pulley or cambelt as stated above. what ive found is that when i take the belt off the charger and put it back on silence happens for a few months.why???? not too sure. as for the flanges. the 2 flanges on the head, one on front other on side are prone to leaking. its wortth replacing the full flange along with the o-rings, 1 to the engine on the flange and 2 to hold the swithces against. both my switch o-rings werew mush and it would seep from here when hot.

A dump valvo on a G60 will do a few things. 1. itll make a loud noise when on part throttle and not wooosh like a turbo. 2. itll make throttle response so much sharper as itll be real instant boost. driving may become a tad more labourous. 3. get a SNS chip as ytoull lean out almost instantly without it due to the digi lag. 4. get a decent valve if your gonna do it or it will sound like a wet fart as beavis said. turboxs RFL is my choice straight off the throttle body return

i dunno. its a common G60 thing those bearings. can yuo hear any rattle coming from the bottom end on accell or decel

the sensors are a big problem causer but what id do is put a pressure gauige in and see whats what. a cheapo gauge is like 20 quid. put that in and watch for low levels. you wanna see cold start 60-80psi dependant on ambient temps when warm 10-20psi over 2krpm you wanna see 30psi or there abouts and it rises from there. up top i probly see around 50-60psi when warm not that a sensor should effect this. if the pump is failing then you could be in for trouble. this happened to me around 2 yrs ago. the gauge will soon tell you if you got a problem or a "loud" warning system. there 2 sensors . 2 bar and 0.4 bar. if its coming on over 2k then its the 2 bar if its a idle issue then its the 0.4 bout 7 quid each from the stealer

nice job

think blackout just wants a set of UK spec corrado lights. could be wrong though

yep id replace the master too. its a fine balance. when you replace one the weaknesses of the other come to the surface as fluid is harder to push. ive had exactly the same problem myself and replacing both cylinders solved it. make sure they are bled up well too.

No point spending money on a VR6? Why stop there, why not say there's no point spending money on ANY Corrado, close the forum down and all buy Scoobies because they can leave a VR for dead? K if thats what you wanna do by all means. i have my corrado for a touch of class not for the pace. as this is a pace thread i feel my comments are appropriate. you spend money on your car cos you want to or have to. that isn't the point. the point is if you want a fast car your starting in the wrong place. a heavy FWD car aint the way to go .ive taken on VR corrados and there aint much in it betwen the the G60 and the VR of course mine aint standard. some ive lost some ive won. i can take on any of the scoobies around here that i know some mega modded some not so megga modded and i wont beat any of um. thats PACE not CLASS its PACE. im sorry but there aint no way a VR or G60 with a few mods doing maybe 270hp if its lucky is gonna see off a 360hp scooby. it isn't happening.

you can buy gas analysers from halfords for 60 quid