GazzaG60

good article. just gave me the impression he'd never driven a G60 and def not a tuned one. nice VR mind but id rather throw a G60 round thoses twisties

dealers probly never driven one or at least a good one. when you go to vw and ask things they aint a clue. most of the technicians aren't old enough to have worked on G60 ans even then they were quite thin on the ground. bad reputations are harder to loose than good ones. that was probly VW doing to in not servicing the items

you may struggle on depth. around 50mm seems to be best for fitment

IIRC my cooler is around 600mmx160mmx45mm. that size seems to fit fine behind the rad meaning rad can be fitted in standard mounting holes. it sticks out from behind the passenger side of rad in the 3-4in space that there is and about 5 inches past the charger side of rad. 700mm may be better to help remove the bends from the ubend to IC I had to cut away around 6inc by 2 inch of the front support so that it fits properly. Anybody..is the golf front support different to a corrado to fit the intercooler in?

has the timing been set up right if the heads been off

im thinkin about a quattro so i can use it in winter too. G60 is skid pan stylee when damp. how do the 2 compare for pace. the 84 is a WR isn't it at 7:1 compression. which is cheaper to run?

i wouldn't have bought a G60 for winter-wheelspin can be fun but not always. think its a 35mm offset 6x15 minimum to cover the 280mms

maybe a air leak or o2 problem. injector cleaner may be a idea too

a 16v on G60 pistons makes about 7:1 CR i believe. need pistons to do the job right.

vac is a good idea as it tells of timing issues or vac leaks

you can get t-pieces from local car shops. they are usually with the boost gauge. yes the shelves are part of the panel. one covers the fuses and the other a continuation to the centre part of the dash

I think the best place to plumb the boost gauge to is under the dash. you can go off the vac hoses on the inlet be it FPR or other but theres no need for another hose under the engine or thru the firewall. If you take the panel off from under the wheel then you can see a hose going to the clocks . this runs from the front of the inlet so.. Cut it and t-piece in making sure the pipes are sealed or you get a vac leak. jobs a good'n what i do from time to time is connect a testing boost gauge(high q blitz jobbie) to the t-piece on the front of the inlet where the carbon can was piped in. its capped when not connected to a gauge. this gives me 2 boost gauges so i can test accuracy of mine to the blitz, whih im told is v accurate for a gauge.

IIRC the acc pedal doesn't have a spring. The tension is provided by the throttle body. maybe the cable. or the pivot point

i thought it was VW or merc based until i popped my head inside a range rover DSI thingy and thought? maybe they all use the same shit clear a big space mate. im no yorkie. im on the right side of the hill and can speak properly(just) measured it by the rack of the eye and the thickness of the wallet at the time. its amazing what you can do with a piece of cardboard on a desk thinkin' yeah itll fit could probly do 2 full conversions for the price of 1 G60 IC.

not sure its off a sprinter Gavin. think its off a range rover of some type. its got alloy end tanks thats why i bought it and oh yes more importantly it was CHEAP :D ITs the pipe shapes that makes it blow off cos of the restricted space. it doesn't leave the u-bend its the next spot down where the intercooler is. i have to use a reducer so it builds up and woooosh its off. Im using a scoobie inlet 90 degree down there now and its holding so.... time for a charger rebuild i think.

im actually thinking of selling mine. not really any reason why, just time. I got this thing about old cars n if i buy a house then thats the last chance to buy an old one im gonna have. im thinkin' porsche 944 turbo Audi UR quattro probly quicker than a quattro already though. it seems a shame to sell it as it stands me at some dollar.

you can adjust the butterfly. all it means is you get power before full throttle. bbost isn't sooner its just you dont have to put you foot down as far. downside to adjusting is that yuo may get lots of air and not the fueling requirement. You could fit a dump valve to the TB boost return. this would sharpen response but may create a on/off type switch. if you adjust the butterfly be v v v v careful with the plastic connections as they can break so i hear.

the piping on my front mount is similar to that. i have a few problems with boost hoses coming off the U-bend. if its anything like mine there isn't room for bigger endtanks with outward facing in/out 's

it sounds like its too rich to me. its got more timing in it id say to pull better low down also. what you see on the AF gauge at 1. partial throttle 2. WOT

no sandy it dont work like that. easing in the throttle on a non sns chip will enable the ecu to catch up giving a user initiated no lag. from what i cansee the SNS stuff has more timing in them making a more agressive power delivery, maybe why this dizzy type problem is magnified. the no lag id have to say doesn;t change the feel or maybe thats masked by the different mapping to a std chip. would be nice to run 2 chips back-to-back, standard ones i mean but one with no lag and the other as vw intended.

no they aint daming adjustable. The rate they are set at are good for the road mind and the handling is good. make sure you dont mark the piston rods in any way shape or form. as far as im aware they aint raceland. i reckon out in germany there are maybe 3 or 4 major damper makers and the badge up for the companies that buy from them. the same way that far eastern factories make electrical goods for many companies from the same place.

i got them. theyre pretty good on ride n that. i had problems with my front 2 and they wouldn't repair under warranty though :cry:

J a m e s- standard car, standard chip mate. best combo. get a pulley and a chip together. speak to bilal

i still haven t had the time to tweak even further but its better than the first one. fist things first Make sure you o2 probe is good and the wiring is good too. my first chip ran awful till i replaced the probe. then a lot better but still not right. get a VW original one too. the yanks use universal which ive tried and it wasn't up to the original. i think the cost difference is lots over there. here its around 30 quid difference so over 80k miles its not much per mile. on new chip Its still a tad rich. im running at 700ohm at the moment. I can tell this by plug/exhaust colouring even though ive never seen my plugs look optimum theyre always a tad black. the wideband too says as much I think this chip in my car is gonna require 800-900ohm judging by the last chips changes on the wideband as i altered the fueling. I still haven t messed with timing either. Its getting difficult to get good power runs in this weather due to traction limitations(and i use shite tyres in winter on my std wheels)so.. i do hope to get a look at it this week sometime. What iuve seen on the af is the following.(my thoughts, not sure if others agree) When its too rich(mine was at 450 or 500ohm) Itll cycle when started after signal is strong enough but when used it may start to chug when back at idle and itll hold rich on the gauge in partial/tickover or full throttle. it showed 10:1 on the wideband, which depending on probe type is the lowest it can show it could have been lower as you lean it down the cycle starts to work more esp in partial but not nec at idle.this was around 600-750 on the old chip(first Gen) it showed 14.5:1 on partial/idle which is bang on and 10-12 on WOT. at 800 or 850 maybe 900 IIRC it ran 11-12.5 or so at WOT. This second chip feels better more responsive. even at this setup its taking a few scalps

the car needs to meet the required emmissons test and that changes at the 92 so k onwards all had carts to meet the emissions. If i was a k plate id gut the cat maybe have it welded around a straight thru and i bet most will still pass emmisions.