GazzaG60

fancy posting a how to?

im interested mate. id like to do that myself. whats involved, what would i need. dont get me wrong i like the G lader but i dont want it to break n turbos are lots cheaper and more airflow. id like a run-thru if you wouldn't mine please.

i thought the reason it was a tight fit was due to the hub venting and it not being present on a ibiza hub

good work guys somehow cant see as much of a gain from the G60 unless you put a M90 of lysholm or turbo on there will be nice to see

speak to bilal at sns dubcharged on the forum make sure you get a matching chip too

fuel pressure switch

look up sams post on vortex. he's done it on the G60. 150hp is far too much. torque gains on the G60 are massive. think he got a 40 shot and gained 100lbs/ft and the 40whp. thats drive shaft snapping torque with over 300lbs/ft

im using a volkspeed front mount and im happy with that. its pretty beefy. not sure if they are still available after the old volkspeed finished but maybe they are. im after a new rear mount too. it was proper sturdy before and recently gone iffy again with a few extra vibrations.

your right there are right ways and wrong ways. the later being not the right way. just examples of whats been done before and proven to work bodge or no badge theres cars that you class as bodge that have a proven record and make better power than any PG G60. a full 20v setup can be had for under 1500. fitting it may be time consuming but its gonna work. a few quid more but the potential for good usable power. i have no idea what power im putting out but its getting on the verge of not usable in the parts that matter. depends what you want out of the motor but i bet in the end you spend more than you expect for not much gain over a chipped and pulleyed car

A set of pistons is around 500 and a 16v full engine around the 200-250 mark. puitting the pistons in the G60 block is what i was thinking with a 16v head on there. you maybe talking doulbe the initial cost but you can recoup from selling the charger etc. i can get a TD04 od a scoobie no probs just the manifold thats a problem. could even just doulble gasket a 16v engine and run low boost n still make better more tractable power than the G60.

no need to go through the bulkhead for boost gauge. t-piece into the hose on the back of the clocks. you need to rremove the covers from under the steering wheel its a blackor white solid plastic hose with a rubber attachment on it. cut the rubber and t-piece in. get a v good seal on it and away you go.

but i think im correct in thinking that a 16v head flows 30% better standard than a 8v. so whats the point in porting valving a G60 head when for only a fraction more you can fit a 16v one. ok it needs pistons but the eventual power would probly need um anyway. thats y i havent ported my head. 16vt seems a better if slightly more costly option

whats silly amounts of boost? im not in that predicament but peeps need to know what they can get out of the standard ones. id say that the amount of power that your gonna generate on a 8v with a Glader wont break standard rods. havent some of the yanky doodles done 16vt conversions with 300WHP on G60 rods and forged pistons.

im in the same sitch. i replace one last yr and now im gonna replace another. Are the mk3 ones a straight swap? think ill just get a standard one anyway

a standard pulley wont make 16psi unless the crank pulley is different and even then.. id check your boost gauge to see if its working proper

depends on fueling 68 is maxxing on injectors so it maybe better to go with so reds and SNS have a word with Henny as he's after some reds and you may be able to sort a deal with him as they come in 8's. expect to pay around 110 for them. maybe darren or bilal or the pitstop guys can tell us what boost differences you can expect between say a 70, 68 and a 65

mine does this it wont unlock (or did) take the panel off the boot lid. the metal arm isn't working properly as you will see when you press the lock unlock button. give it a helping hand and it should be ok again

my standard intercooler had a hole in it. it made about 5 psi

Mine does this steve. i noticed it on my last chip. when i leaned it out it would cycle. ive been really lazy and not done any more fine tuning so mines the same. itll sit at middle to rich on idle and cycle when moving and holding around 10 vac. im gonna lean out a bit more as im still rich and im pretty sure this will sort the problem. tell tales like plug colour and exhaust give it away. i got MOT in a few weeks so im gonna try and get the wideband done this week to sort it.

i got the supersport. like the ride not the usual weak susp manufacturers warranty for when the leaked

bit o grease on the spring on pedal

steve. think youll find that if you remove the membrane carpets will get v damp. not sure why. think its the condensation that passes through. from what i can gather that and the maxtrix leak are the most comon forms of leak. i had it on my scirocco. its worse with leather panels. why???? i fitted a new door and it didn't have a membrane. within 3 weeks that side of the car was damp. like you say as long as it goes back just peel it off.

id say on average mine costs around 250 per month. what ive fopund is if i dont buy a new bit for tired old one it feels neglected and breaks 3 parts

I got the impression it was a old school club where you are judged on site. id expect if i was a well spoken mid 40s with a VR6 when i approached the stand i would have gotten a better reception. i also felt a "if you are having a stand, then you should stand with us" attitude towards my partial(was a group effort) organisation of the forum stand at VWNW.

also i dont mind the revs dropping as the G60 powerband can handle that. on a turbo though i wouldn't wanna keep dropping out of boost.