GazzaG60

i soldered it to the violet, faded a bit pink wire above the plug up the insulated a couple of feet to avoid the heat at the plug. that goes to black below the plug to the o2 sensor

i use total super most of the time. conveinience as much as anything. optimax is good also but i find performance similar maybe due to my O2 problem

Well fitted the gauge at the weekend to a multitude of problems to cut a long story short my O2 sensor wasn't conneccted and i presume hasn't beenn since the exhaust was fitted. the connectors were cruddy n the earth had snapped. anyway fitted it and fixed the wiring n that but all i get is a constant 4 bars on the gauge. its a summit racing AF. I know that once warm the gauge should cycle but mine doesn't. it just sticks at 4 bars. peeps with experience of this Do i have a dead O2 sensor :( or is my wiring bad :shock: :( help please :cry:

check you wheel arch plastics. they tend to loosen and mis-shape. if your splitter catches it pushes the full lot out of line(ducting for brakes etc.

yes. bought mine new but not from VAG. When it was bought the guy who bought it got the caps too. i can get the part nuber from them if you like

the caps fill the two mounting holes-keep um in prestine condition so they dont detract from the look. I too am on a Summit AF that i bought from a guy i know who bought 2 lots of everything from the states before bilal was doing stuff. he has a mk2 G60 running SNS 5, 30# n more. its a fast car. kinda deceptive in performance. his chip is a US version that apparently is set for their better fuel. thought our fuel was better but according to Sam it aint. n i belive him n trust his judgement or i wouldn't wanna run a SNS would I. belive their is more timing thrown in low down which in the N Manchester climate sound s ok to me. ill try n get some piccies this weekend when i do the job

mine exhaust is fine. never catches bangs, clanks or whatever you like. fit is great n sound is good too. suspension is not too bad. supersport coilovers. even fully loaded its fine. no new rubbers n that. just run it in n jobs a goodun. had to remove one of the heat shields as it rattled at low revs

depends what guages you want. There are parts to fit it from the dealer. diod you get the two caps that fit the front of it too. gonna do mine at weekend. fitting AF and oil pressure(is already in).

mine is same. grab the engine with your hands n shake it. it nods when the front mount is shot. like mine is at moment. looks like vibratechnics are the peeps for mounts. may try a volks-speed one if it fits as its uprated.

Scott-may pop down for a look. whats the date for Dubsport. Not seen too many corrados about round here n even less G60s at that. I aint a CCGB member so would i be welcome? If its a weekend may have an hour or so down there n meet a few people.

live near oldham. in newton heath/failsworth at moment at work.

they should know on chassis number. i have this problem with the 92 G60 its changeover year

oil does tend to get too hot in G60s especially when the boost is upped. Im gonna fit a external oil cooler soon so that the water can do the job it is supposed to do. Which pedal? On top of the oil filter housing are two switches that screw in. one temp one pressure. the smaler one to the front is temperature n the big one in the centre with a white insulator is a 2bar oil pressure sender. put your sender for pressure in here. if its mechanical use the t-piece (dont screw it in too hard or it snaps-a long story) the electric ones use a similar sender too. i prefer mechanical as only one element can be out-the clock. replace the 2 bar switch at the same time. this is a bit buzzer happy when older. temp goes in the other smaller one thats at the front. dont have one of these as its on the dash

nice. think ill have a lok at that in the future. tried to repair mine as i mentioned not to long ago. i tried JB weld. it worked for a couple of goes but then broke. its the initial shock n the fact that it doesn't have a lot to stick too. is the kit both sides or just one. passenger side has snapped on mine bout 3/4 inch from the cable end. need to replace that part.

we have about 10 times the number of cars on the road.

more of a generalisation of what could be wrong or wont be as it was when the car was new. shows how good these cars were when new as to how they still are with the problems. mine handles good but when the window is down i can hear squeeky bushes, probly dry n tired :cry: need to replace

problem is these cars are old. a G60 may be cheap but chances are it needs at some point soon if not straight away to put it back to its former glory charger rebuild crank barings brakes wheel barings suspension top mounts engine mounts bushes anti roll bars/bushes sunroof fix window rattles exhaust(std one is heavy so mounts may be stretched) general service with proper plugs, leads oil, filters etc rear spoiler broke? all these mount up n what was a cheap car at 2-3k ish soon isn't if you can find a spot on example that hasn't already been snapped up. ie no rattles good running gear, charger warranty in first few months i reck on its worth 4-5k as thats what itll cost to put a reasonable one back right

no low fuel light on my G60. maybe VRs had it on the new dash. had mine grumble at me not too long ago when it was nearly empty. tenner in a can until i got to super unleaded. new fuel filter time then it was

if the clutch needs to be pressed to floor to operate and only lifted a bit to bite it means that a component is on its way out. ive done a slave cylinder as mine isnt good at the moment. the push rod dropped out. the master is a dead'n too. basically the more the pedal has to be pushed the more fluid has to be moved to make the clutch operate or there is a leak either internally in the clyinders(like i have) or a fluid leak which is easy to spot. mine bites on its own at the moment after bout 10 secs as the fluid seeps back past the master. pedal sticks too. bleeding the system is one of the most important things n can be a pain to do. keep the ressy on the brake servo full so no air can get past/in. both parts tend to fail at the same time. think this may be due to replacing one puts stress on the other as does new fluid. im replacing the master in a week or 2 when i can get the funds. had enough of p[edal dropping n sticking to floor.

If it is exhaust related, check the engine mounts. gotta be the biggest cause of exhaust damage.

not booked it yet but gonna do real soon.-this week

it was if a bit of the gasket was petruding into any of the ports cos they hang on the studs on the scirroco presume they are the same. note sure on much else. Injectors maybe. mine tick a bit but nothing irregular

when a exhaust manifold isnt quite tight or is damaged it can make a ticking noise that is fairly loud. think its the gasket that ticks when thye pulses hit it. happened on my scirocco when i did the exhaust n inlet port. i didnt have it quite tight n it ticked. when at idle it was quiet though. tappets tend to make a different sound to that. usually u can still hear them when you are off throttle. n feel them too thru screwwy on rocker cover. does it feel ok power wise

I like my G60 n being a small 8v its fairly easy to work on.

exhaust manifold?