GazzaG60

looking at your plug 1 wire is isolated. thats the signal the remaining 3. 1 goes to the engine mount braket -earth. other 2 heaters connect any way. dont get them mixed up or it may be new ecu time.

Are there any differences between the 9a and kr exhaust cams. i know the inlet is different. i plan on either a 2 exhaust cam or KR camset to run the engine in on before looking into the solid lifter some more. what im aiming at is can i use a kr and 9a exhaust cam pair thanks Gazza

you need to work out compression ratios. ive heard of det issues on G60s over 9:1 due to poor combustion chamber design. the G60or PG as we know it should be low compression, high boost for best results, however it would be nice to see a properly mapped one running high compression. with a bigger cam and some headwork a 7000rpm G60 is on the cards with a standard pulley

t off the clock pipe its the easiest to install to. never use FPR line or ecu line

thats one description for it. ive been in lots of 350+hp subarus and they dont feel that fast but that maybe due to their greater holding abilities as much as their transmission losses. the only time you need the 4wd is the start or in the wet. for me i dont drive fast in the wet and most of my stuff is midrange. on the strip ill run slicks so.. i have done this deliberation too and am sticking FWD for my new engine. i want the economy on the long drive that most 4wd cars have not a chance of meeting.

back end sticks like glue i think. rear bearings may need a nip or replacing, thats when ive felt loosness. im not sure on the 4wd v 2wd one. from all accounts the vw 4x4 system aint that good. it cant handle much grief unless you go haldex. there are numerous vws in the states making 10-12 sec quarters on 2wd. gotta be something to say for that.

the PG engine is strong but it isn't a G60 when the chargers gone. its not a G60 turbo or anythnig like thAT. ITS A TURBO 8V. it will provide better power than a G60 but its a bit of a pita on the counter-flow head. its all about flow. look at some of the US spec G60's there are some very high spec ones and not many make 200whp let alone 300. id have a tenner with you neither joe or henny have 300hp from thier G60. no offence guys, youve both stuck with the G60 and made the best of it. they will be fast but not 300hp. my G60 is pretty fast, it wont be in their league, probly 30 hp down but i can still keep with a 280hp-300hp subaru mid range. From doing my conversion which is coming along im quickly learning that a corrado isn't the best place to start for a fast car if you want easy mods.

i use a pacet pro fan. 1668cfm 12" on my G60 rad.

i wanna see the box too. i got a 02m but it would be nice to see. anybody got a theory as to why vw would go back to 02a/02j style box after the 02m and add the extra gear. is it like a eurospec box, the ones who do a standard 02a witht eh add-on

IIRC that was the episode where "the end of the supercar" was proposed. with the vr the escort cossie and a few others. good watch even though it was around 10 yrs ago

so why it it that people have the shafts shortened or ones made up. anybody know whats involved in changing the output flanges on the box. good thread

there seems to be a bit of confusion around all this area. so are we saying we can bolt the G60 shafts to a 100mm flange for a 02m from a beetle. providing the G60 shafts have been shortened to make them fit the smaller space?

both are good engines. in general a 4 is cheaper than a 6 cos theres less but the charger adds somewhat to that. cant say i see them as weak as long as you dont abuse or neglect it. smaller pulleys and chips help the G60 be a vr pace wise but the "ners" get shorter than a vR as you restict its revability

im hoping to wind lots of boost into the valve in the end. i was so close to buying a vr6 clutch as you say cos itll handle loads and give stock feel. ive got myself an 02m now anyway so it kinda rules out the vr clutch unless i convert from 240mm to 228mm but that seems a bit backwards. not hating on the vr clutch if thats the impression i gave. looking to do the drag strip a few times and i think that will be the tell tale part. im shooting for an initial 300hp going up once the engine is run in and my confidence rises. looking to max the 550cc injectors out first, they should be good for 420ish. my main thought is that i dont wanna kill the disk off straight away. it would be a waste of time and money and hassle and at the level im shooting for its holding capacity would be borderline.

im gonna go 6. 3 and 4 are harsh. get a sprung version and you will be ok. the vr6 one wont handle what im gonna put through it.

if you wanna spin the wheels that is

gsxr 1000 tbs maybe? they ar wethe most cost effective and best size a bike can offer, or thats what i can gather, 42mm butterflies etc. also itll take more than that nice head to make 250hp NA probly big cams, solid lifters, good bottom end built to rev 8k

good old brake cleaner is the weapon of choice for my mates in the garage for cloths, hands, floors......

i know some are electronic and some mechanical. id expect id need the electronic ones. loosing the boost check dont matter. I wont be running digi 1 and will have a 3 bar map sensor as i plan to run around 25psi

is that a definate mate. im not too up on instument clusters and would hate to have to fit a tach thats non standard.

16v clocks fit a G60? My clocks as its a G60 only go 7k which is mre than fine for a G60 but i want a 7500-8k redline on the 16vt. anybody know if 16v clock are a straight fit for G60 ones. anybody got a set for sale? cheers in advance Gaz

was supposed to be in the last post as some peeps have asked me about my mates scooby work. tuned by my good self for 350hp on the standard engine. its having a 2.4 with ported heads and custom cams in the next few weeks and some 720cc injectors to play with. cant wait. thats my scooby plugs done. anybody with scoobs interested in services that can be offered for jap crap let me know. as far as fitting one in a C. well it looks a bit wide and they are a pig to work on in the car. you never know for the future. I am waiting for the correct rod bolts to be sent and a proper throttle body with a 75mm "flapper". ill update the post with VW stuff again arounf weekend time as i expect some drastic progress this week and next.

update 23 jan 06 Well the bolts arrived. i got the wrong ones. ARP ford bolts are usable just get right ones. heres a picture of the slightly oversized ones. The block is now ready to throw together i have everything other than the new smaller big rod bolts and 1 crank cap bolt that i lost. The manifold is progressing nicely. im getting ready to weld it all up now and fit some stacks to the runners. more pics soon. anyway not a great deal as more bits are in transit from yankeeeeee doooodle.

up north we tend to be a little bit skinter and a little bit tighter to match so tend to do most things ourselves (or is that just me). Im gonna pop down to birch for the E38 as i only live round the corner to look at your lovely creation if you are there

for accurate representation you need to earth from the same point as the probe but like you say the battery does the job. in the end i used a 2 wire earth. 1 2 the battery and the other to the probe ground point. my wiring was toasted so it needed a help.