thetino

Yep, I had originally refitted it after i discovered the ECP one was incorrect. I know what you mean about ECP paying to get the carsorted, but I bet they deny all knowledge.

Original sender was working before I had fitted the dodgy one. It now has a new VAG one.

Well, last weekend was spent replacing the crack pipe. Not a great job, but made fareasier working on a ramp at work. Anyways, whilst it was out, I had decided last minute to replace the 4 pin sender for the fan and coolant gauge. VW didn't have any in stock, so I decided to order one from Euro Car parts. Well. this was clearly the wrong one, as it would leave the fan on all of the time when the ignition was switched off, and would swich the fan off when switching the ignition on, so I put the original one back in. The temp gauge then stopped working. Now fitted a new one, and the temp still doesn't operate. Everyting else works as it should, so I'm guessing that the switch shorted the gauge.(or I have a broken wire somewhere) Would anyone know if the gauge has its own seperate fuse? If not, are these clocks as easy to strip down as the MK2 golf ones (done a few of those) so that I can get hold of a used one and retain the mileage covered? Thanks

It seems you have answered most of the questions yourself. Rich running can be caused by various things, including lambda sensors, MAF, air leaks, etc. I think you need someone with VAG-COM to give ou some ideas.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOSCH-AEROTWIN-WIPERS-VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-ALL-88-95_W0QQitemZ160162328817QQihZ006QQcategoryZ45645QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Has anyone tried these? They are aero wipers to fit standard arms. A couple of years ago, I bought a cheap one to fit my polo, but I found that the springiness was to strong and the spring within the wiper arm isn't strong enough to push the whole wiper onto the glass.

Just got back from a fantastic 1700 mile trip through France in the VR6. The car performed perfectly, returning an journey average of 30mpg! It was faultless, till we got back. Most of the time, the car starts on the 1st hit, but this past week, it has been firing, then immediately cutting out. Switching off and recranking normally solves the issue, but yesterday it almost left the missus stranded, She was just about to call RAC, and thought she would give it 1 last try, and it fired. Once on, it runs perfectly. Any ideas, or anyone local to Neasden with VAG COM?

If it is a +ve signal that you need, the easiest but slightly long winded way is to grab it from the reverse lamp.

Amp fitting is relatively easy. The best way to get the HU in it to pull out the lower panel below the glovebox, and guide the wires from behind the unit.

But sometimes it will happily move. There is nothing that differentiates it moving. When it does move,it moves happily and freely. I can open the roof at the beginning of a journey, and it will then not close. It will always tilt open, but sometimed when the failure happens, it won't close. I am pretty confident that this is not connected to the runners. Please help, summer is coming!

Can't comment on the G60, but i have been running a JR cone filter on the G40 for 35k, and have had no issues. Filter is cleaned and oiled at most once a year. Agreed, the airbox may filter better, but you lose that wonderful noise, which is half the reason to own a G-Ladered car

OK, before the you won't be insured brigade get excited, your insurance company is obliged to cover the 3rd party, regardless of what mods you have done, or your alcohol, drug consumption etc etc. They may, however take to suing you back for their payout(unlikely, but the possibility is there) But, if you have any undeclared mods, they have every right to not pay you out in the event of a claim. Don't take the attitude of "i'll remove it in the event of a smash" as I know of a few cars(one a supercharged VR) that were impounded by the police following a smack. Basically, if your gonna fit it, you need to set aside the funds to insure it. You'll find that specialist companies as have been mentioned before, will sting you a relatively low amount of money considering the power increase that you will gain. Good luck

Hello mate, PM me I should be able to get hold of some!

According to another website: The R32 color codes - Deep Blue Pearl - LB5R/9955 Black Magic Pearl - LC9Z/Z4 Reflex Silver - LA7W/8E Tornado Red - LY3D/G2 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?i ... d=37067208

you need to switch the +ve (memory and ign) cables on the back of the unit. They are often red and orange, yellow etc, and come with plugs on the loom ready to do this

Yep, thats cheaper than I used to get them when i used to fit them full time.

Could you have confused what you think is the illumination wire with the -ve wire? Basically, switching the lights on should not affect the functionality on the gauges at all? If switching the lights cuts out the gauges, the only explanation is that you have either lost an earth(hence me thinking that you have tapped into a light circuit as your -ve) or you are losing the +ve. Are the gauge backlights working when you switch the lights on?

Must still be the wrong earth. Light circuits seem like an earth till you switch the lights on

If everythung reads 0 when switching the lights on, you have used the light circuit as the -ve on the gauges. Find another earth.

But if I use tilt, it wont always close

I run a VDO analogue one in my G40. The ebay linked one seems big and obvious, not to my taste. Have seen plenty on digital round ones though, some which have an all black face when switched off. Far more tasteful than above.

As in title really, our car has a collapsed(physically, broken frame) drivers seat. Whilst the leather isn't perfect, as a temporary fix, I was thinking of getting a cloth drivers seat and swapping the leather over. Is there anything that would surprise me, or is it a relatively straight forward cover swap. Also need to transfer the heated elements.

Does the sunroof motor have some sort of sensor? The roof works sometimes and sometimes not. There doesn't seem to be a pattern, just randomly, the switches light up, and when they do, the roof works perfectly.

Hi, just wondering if someone can point me in the right direction. The sunroof will always tilt open, but most of the tiime will then not close, or wont slide(it does sometimes, so that rules out the runners). The switch lights up when it does work. Tried wiggling wires, but this seems to make no difference. Any ideas?

If you wanna go to all the trouble of running a wire from the battery +ve, make sure that you fuse it as nearto the battery as possible. You can pick up a supply from the Cigar lighter circuit. I think the cigar lighter is constant live, so this wouldn't supply a switching circuit. You could if you wanted to, get a switching circuit from the heated rear window switch. Or, if the kighter is a constant live, just wire both the ign and +ve cables to the stereo. you won't have a switching supply, but if its a removable faceplate unit, it won't matter

Excellent, I'll try that! Thanks for the link. Lifted the gear console, but the clip was there intact. Gonna try an adjustment o'er the weekend