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I was so exasperated by the whole experience I just wanted to get away and do it myself. Now I've got everything as straight as it can be, it still pulls left - which is the problem I wanted to correct in the first place. It's because my subframe is slightly off, I think, so I'll straighten that one day when I can and align the tracking again.

Yes, they replaced the boots. It was lucky that I was under the ramp when he did it as he was unaware. Come MOT time I would have had to shell out for new boots and possibly new joints as well. I won't be going back. When I was finished there I was £35 down, tracking that was worse than when I went in, steering wheel mis-aligned and two boots replaced that were perfectly fine to begin with.

I might have to take it to a specialist, although I thought these people with the machine were specialists. It was interesting to read about a skinny bolt which could help the camber get a bit more upright. It was also interesting to read about only adjusting the tracking from the offside track rod, I didn't know that. My car has been adjusted from both sides, and not only by me. ATS did both sides too, burned through my CV boots whilst putting heat into the locking nuts then left my steering wheel about 20 degrees out, but that's another story.

But since I've already lowered it by 100mm, I don't know what the new figures should be. The camber can't be adjusted any further anyway which I why I don't understand why all of these figures are needed. It makes no sense if camber can't be adjusted further anyway. I just wanted them to check the distances from front to rear and then make sure the wheels point in the same direction. I might do as you said, take it to someone else.

I don't want to move the rear beam though. I need to measure against the rear axle to be sure that the front is straight. Then I need camber & caster angles for the front so they can put it on their machine. I don't understand why they can't just put it on the machine and adjust until it's straight and the camber is as upright as possible. I've done it as best I can with a home tracking kit now so it's better than before and the camber is adjusted as far as possible. I just need to measure the distance from rear to front hubs because I know my front subframe is slightly out which causes the car to pull left slightly. This would have been so much easier on the machine but they insist on knowing "the figures".

Yes, it is. I think the fronts have to be checked against the rears so that both sides are equally spaced. But you're right, the rears are fixed.

Hi I need to get a 4 wheel alignment done on my Corrado VR6 and because I have lowered my car on coilovers by 100mm, I am being asked for the new settings that they should put in to the machine. I think these are the camber angles etc. but probably there's a whole set of readings that they need. Has anyone else lowered by 100mm and know the figures they used please? I have to admit that I don't know exactly what they need but someone who's in the know might be able to shed some light maybe? I don't really understand why they can't just make it straight.

I have a set of standard springs and shocks if you want a standard set up.

I haven't read the whole post so forgive me if this isn't the info you're looking for... My car in my profile picture is on 17s and a Weitec Hicon GT coilover kit. It was substantially lowered from original, I never did measure exactly how much. The ride is firm but not excessive, damping is not adjustable but set just right. Oops! I just screwed my photo up, you're not meant to see that one. I'll try to attach a larger photo of the car when I get home.

Isn't that stuff called Schutz, not Schultz? Schultz may have been the guy who applied it in the factory ,but Schutz is the product :-)

I have a de-badged grille if it's any good to you. £25 del. good condition.

I have a Mk4 that I will be breaking soon. The bushes are shot but I have new ones to go in when removed. I have no idea if it's a straight swap but if you research and it fits then I can have it off fairly soon.

I have a de-badged grille. £25 delivered.

I've got a grille but no eyebrow, if you need it.

Do you still need this? I have a cable shift assembly.

I see a couple of people want the headlights but if they are still available I'd like them too. Cash waiting. Thanks, James

OK, £8 anyone?

I have a Bosch Aerotwin AR19U wiper blade for sale. It is in an opened packet but completely new and unused. I bought it in error because I must have converted my wiper arms to the pin type at some point and forgotten about it. This blade fits the standard Corrado hook type arms. It is 19" - 475mm and will fit either side. I have now bought the pin type Bosch blade and it is fantastic so this will be too. £10 delivered to UK - PM or email me at [email protected] I can't load up a photo for some reason but I can send one by email or MMS if you get in touch.

I've had exactly this problem recently. The light stays on after starting up when it should go off. My ABS didn't work when the light stayed on either. VAG COM once told me that I had a duff rear sensor. I changed it but after a couple of days the light was back on. I eventually sprayed the main electrical connection and the fault has gone and the light now goes off. I should have done this first and saved myself a whole load of grief trying to change the sensor. During the start up test it must check each sensor and report back if it finds that the sensor appears damaged or non responsive. However, if the electrical connector isn't making contact then this is exactly what the test will find and report it as a duff sensor. Start with that main connector on the ABS pump. It's easy to get to and the contact cleaner spray is cheap - get it at a parts store or Maplin, Servisol Aero Kleen 50 is what I use, it's excellent. Replacing a sensor is certainly more work and a lot more money and it may not be at fault at all. Do the easy things first. If you want to read about what happens during the start up routine I'm sure it's on this forum somewhere, you'll have to search for it.

Well, it's hard to say. I would expect VAG COM to give an error code for one of the four sensors if one was faulty but I think you said there was nothing. It is supposed to do a self test when you start up with the light flickering slightly then going off. If it stays on, I assume that it's not completing the test and so I would suspect a dodgy electrical connection at the pump rather than a sensor which is what the contact cleaner should help to fix. You could search on here for the ABS start up routine and see if anything being described sounds familiar.

Get yourself some electrical contact cleaner and spray it in the ABS pump plug first of all. Give it a good squirt in the plug and socket. A couple of quid here might save you much more on ABS sensors and sensor rings - not to mention the time to do those jobs.

I thought I might have been a bit harsh but I'm glad someone else feels the same way. I would also expect that once you've made one and the tooling/pattern exists that you could produce another whenever it's needed. Maybe even after doing 10 then setting it all up to produce one at a time isn't cost effective - I could understand that. However, won't they already be doing that with track cars? Surely they're not all the same. I too would really like a heated screen but the expense doesn't justify it for me, especially if I need a new seal as well. I've never tried to get one out without breaking the screen or the seal.

Maybe they are a nice bunch of chaps and they answer questions quickly. However, if you do a group buy I would expect that a lot of people make the decision to buy based on the discount offered and because they are tempted by the product and not because they have needed the item for a while and were waiting for the right offer to come up. If his assumption is correct, wouldn't you offer as much choice as possible to get more people on board rather than stating that everyone has to have the same item? How much extra work would it be to use tinted glass for some orders? It sounds like they want to knock 10 out quickly and we either buy them or we don't. That's just my view but I would expect to get exactly what I want for £300 delivered.

Really? What's the chance of that? Sounds like they aren't exactly putting the effort in here.

I take it you mean the fuel pump is suspect? It's easy to change. Access from the boot under the carpet. I can't quite remember exactly how to do it but you'll figure it out.