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Yeah, I have seen the screw but I can't see how to get a screwdriver on it without having the steering lock off. I have the adjustable steering wheel and the mechanism for this gets in the way of the screw.

I believe you're doing it correctly as I had exactly the same trouble. I think the console just needs to be pushed and held in place for you to get the studs on (maybe do the studs first and then the screws). I twisted mine on rather than pushing them as they never seemed to go on very far and then popped off as yous have.

Ah, yes. I see.

Why wouldn't you have polybushes on the rear beam?

I have exactly the same problem which I also thought was weather related initially. Maybe it is. For the last couple of years (no kidding) I have been driving around with half the dashboard missing so I can get my finger on the switch and tweak it to the right gently. It'll start every time like this. Obviously I need a long term solution and I have a new switch, but, like everyone else, I'm waiting for some quality time when I can rip it all apart. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but to get the switch out don't we have to remove the steering lock and drill out those two sheer pins? I can't see another way to do it, hence I still haven't fixed it in two years. James

My ride before polybushes was pretty bad so I'd say it was an improvement! I think it'll be worth your while to go to your mate's place and use the vice. It's pretty quick and will save you making a meal of it with various contraptions. Just grease it a little first and it'll slip right in!

I just did my rear speakers. I think there are about 4 nuts to remove and a screw which holds the speaker shelf in place near the back of the seat. Once the speaker shelf is out there are another couple of screws to remove and then the speaker and it's carrier will pop out. There's actually no need to remove the grille as it's attached to the carrier. I had to set the Dremel to work on the underside of the grille just to make enough room on the carrier to clear the new speaker's tweeter. No big drama though. I also used the dremel on the new speaker to widen the mounting holes as it was pretty tight when mounting it back in the carrier. James

Hi If anyone still needs these little caps you could try a new part number as I have just ordered one myself. You need a trim code at the end so the number becomes 53585372001C for the RH and probably 53585371901C for the LH.

Zak, I'd like one of your 3 relay looms please for a '95 Corrado VR. Please let me know when you'd like payment and when I can expect delivery. Thanks, James

Stone, you are right. That's exactly what I was trying to describe. I will fit the new pipe, omiting the breather valve and fit a new vacuum hose from the carbon canister (I never knew what that was before). Thanks to everyone else for the info. James

Sorry, I lost the post and forgot which ones I'd responded to. It was probably more beefy than I need - at least that's what I'm telling myself.

I believe it is called the PCV hose though I don't know what PCV stands for. Does anyone else know what to do with this valve? what does it do?

That gasket is for up to chassis no. M 014 000. For M014 001 onwards try 021 103 483D. There's probably not a lot of difference, maybe a different material.

If you decide that it's the MAF then I have a new one kicking about somewhere. I had troubles recently and bought it but I found that it wasn't the problem so I put the old one back on. James

You will probably find that you can't replace that part by itself. It's part of the throttle valve adapter. The number for a throttle up to engine no. PG 014644 is 037133063C, up to engine no. PG 089000 it's 037133063AJ and from PG 089001 onwards it's 037133061L. That's if it's a manual shift. If it's an auto then try 037133061A up to engine no. PG 089000 or 037133061M for PG 089001 onwards. I think your best bet is to get the entire throttle valve from a breakers yard. It should be a lot cheaper. James

Try 021 103 475M James

OK, I have my hoses and have fitted 8 out of 9. The last one is supposed to go from a breather valve at the top of the valve cover (near the throttle) to the air intake. Obviously it doesn't fit on to the valve, there's not enough room so I assume that the valve gets removed to fit this hose, is that correct? If that's so then is it OK just to remove it? Also, do I just plug up the other breather that steps over the valve and pops into the top of it? Unfortunately I can't get a photo of it right now and I can't even find it on the drawings on VAGCAT.

Do you still have the spoiler? Is it unmarked? Forget the fogs. James

Can you tell me about the Audison? How many watts per channel and can it be bridged? Or does it have a dedicated sub channel? How many Ohms does it need to run, 2 or 4? James

I haven't scanned it yet. I have a cable but I need to get VAG COM back on the laptop. I could do that now I suppose. Reference the pinging noises, the only time it happens is when I'm driving so I doubt it would be loud enough to hear over the road noise etc. ---------- Post added at 3:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:23 PM ---------- Wouldn't the knock sensor cause the whole bank to retard if it was cracked and broken - which it is - thereby giving a dodgy signal not just during one cylinder firing but for a few seconds at a time?

I'd imagine that adding a supercharger would be the easiest and cheapest route. Not that I've done it. It should give you plenty of power at all revs rather than all coming in together. Swapping for a VR6 would probably cause you the most work as it's not just the engine that you'd be replacing. If either of these routes are too expensive then maybe just port the head and add a decent free flowing exhaust. And a decent air filter. And a lightened flywheel.

Any ideas anyone?

You could clean and re-paint your battery tray Empty and bleed your brake system with good access to the ABS pump or renew any old brake pipes Fit some polybushes.

I have been having an intermittent problem with fueling on my VR6. Usually it happens at around 1800 revs and without any change on the throttle pedal the car loses power and begins slowing down. If I stab the throttle it seems to wake it up and it drives as it should. I thought it could be a faulty throttle position sensor. If I understand this correctly, the TPS signals are only used at part throttle and at WOT, the signal is ignored. This would help explain why the car might drive normally after stabbing the throttle. However, upon stripping the front of the engine down to replace a crack pipe I noticed that the inlet manifold running to the forward bank of cylinders was quite black inside whereas the rear inlets where relatively clean. I then noticed that the knock sensor under the crack pipe was cracked and so I'm wondering if this is to blame for my strange loss of power and is somehow leading to an over/under fueling problem on the forward three cylinders. Or (I just thought of this), it's causing the ECU to alter the firing time so that combustion is taking place whilst the valves are still open hence the black intakes and loss of power. I'd like to think I've just answered this myself but does anyone else have an educated view of this? For information; I have swapped the MAF for a known good one and it made no difference.

Are Roose really that good? Samco say they are the best in the world. How can they still do that if it's not true?