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I'm interested in the tailgate spoiler if it's unmarked. I know you've bundled it together but can you wrap it and send it? Do you still have the front fog/indicator units? Are they undamaged? Is a photo possible? PM for my email if so.

I'd like the rebuilt one but if you want it shifted this weekend I can't do it. If you can wait until I can get something to carry it then I'll have it for £200. I'm hoping to arrange something for monday. Does he have a crane?

And just so I understand what we're getting here... We're sending all 9 hoses including two for the oil cooler?

I am interested, yes, but only if they're three piece wheels like the originals. Do they split down to 3 pieces or are the bolts just for show?

I see. Well, I should probably pass on the rebuilt one unless he can wait for a while longer. I would need to arrange some transport. He has a crane to lift it I assume? And by the way, Felixstowe is not Folkstone! I live in Suffolk so you're closer. PS, I will make a call tomorrow and let you know re transport.

I need a set of these asap! My car is off the road again due to a burst hose, it's becoming tiresome and very frustrating. If I confirm now, where will I be in the queue?

Hi You mentioned them being replicas but who makes them?

Hi I can give you £200 for the rebuilt engine and £125 for the old engine (since you asked for an offer) but I probably can't collect this weekend. By the sound of it you desperately need the space or could you hang on for a while? Where are you in Essex?

Zak, I am interested in a new loom but I have InPro Angel Eyes which are pathetic. Do you have any experience of improving these with your looms or not? I do 't want to spend money if the lights themselves are beyond help. James

I guess it depends how much comfort you actually want to retain and how much you have to spend. For performance, roadholding and adjustability i'd say coilies all the way. If you're sure you want just a 40mm drop and no improvement in roadholding then probably shorter springs. I have no idea how much i dropped mine with coilovers but it was way more than 40mm. I fitted Weitecs which are excellent but have no damping adjustment. This is fine for me as they are stiff enough for good, precise cornering but not overly so that i bounce all round the cabin. My Golf has KW's variant 2 coils which have rebound adjustment which can make your ride a little less harsh but they are expensive at about £600 last i heard. I have mine set reasonably hard as i don't mind the rough ride but they are awesome. Weitecs are made by the same people and are also very good, i can recommend either the Weitecs or KWs. Just be sure not to get coilies and skimp on the price for some cheap ones, you'll most likely regret it.

Well, i seem to have sorted this one. It was the wires, i had them on the wrong switches. All this after i noted them down when i took them off!

Yeah, i only thought about the possibility that the wires were wrong as i typed the first post. The car isn't at my house so it's going to be the first thing i check next time i see it. James. ps, i could still do with a photo or a description if someone can lift their bonnet please.

I have an oil pressure problem on my 95 VR, i get a flashing oil light a second or so after starting and then a buzzer at about 2k revs. Here's some background - I was using a lot of oil and my clutch was on it's way out. Other than that it ran fine. I took the engine out of the car and replaced: Valve stem oil seals Crank oil seal on the gearbox side (a lot of oil in the bell housing so this was the cause of the oil loss i think) Clutch & lightened flywheel Both chains, guides and lower tensioner Head gasket & valve cover gasket The little breather valve from the valve cover to the air intake I reinstalled the engine and now i have the pressure problem. I have looked at a couple of things since which are: Low oil pressure switch on the oil filter housing (yellow wire) i changed that for another i had. All pipes connected in the right place, gaskets fitting tight, electrical connections in the right place (the only ones that can be mixed up are those on the oil filter housing -thinking about it now, could i have put the wire for low pressure on the high pressure switch? Does anyone have a picture of their switches and the wire colours going to each please?) Oil pump - i had the sump off and the pump out. A lot of gunk came out of the strainer, the relief valve seemed ok and moves freely. There appears to be no leaks from the chain covers nor the valve cover. The head gasket was for a Golf i think but the part numbers look to be the same - i had wondered if it may be blocking oil ways but there is fresh oil on the cams which would confirm that the pump is ok, better now it's been cleaned. I'm thinking now that i have the wires in the wrong place on the filter housing though i was sure i made a note when i took them off. Anyone have any views or ideas please? And a photo of the filter housing and the wires going to each switch would be great. Thanks, James.

Well, refitting my O ring didn't make any difference to oil pressure (unless it fell out again when i wasn't looking), still flashing and bleeping. I'm thinking i must have a wiring fault. I've had the head off so all wiring was undone but there's only a few places that could be venting and i think i've covered those: The Oil filler cap The breather on the valve cover The tensioner The crank oil seal Top and bottom chain covers The oil filter housing I have also changed the crank oil seal but that was tight so would not have come off. Has anyone got any ideas why else i'd have a loss of pressure? There's fresh oil on the top of the cams so the pump is working. *** Edit *** Fixed now, it was a wiring problem. James

Yep, there are a couple of tensioners, one for the top chain and one for the lower. The upper one screws into the back of the head (actually the upper chain cover) and keeps it's tension with oil fed in from the side. The O ring sits around this oil way between the main head and the upper chain cover where the tensioner is screwed into. You can't see if from the outside but when you remove the upper cover it will most likely be sitting in a recess on the head.

Ok, maybe that's been my problem then. After doing the chains i built it back up so quickly that i forgot the O ring. I realised my mistake but ran the engine anyway. The oil light came on immediately and the buzzer came on at about 40MPH, though not when revving to 3k RPM at a standstill, curiously. I only did a couple of miles to the MOT station and back so hopefully no damage. I have now got the O ring back in place but the battery is flat so i'm yet to check if it's now cured.

I'm not the original poster. I was searching for oil pressure problems and found this thread. I just came across the bit where Cheeswire said the O ring fell out and wondered what happened because of it as i forgot to put mine in and now have low oil pressure. I can't see that it can cause that but i'm kind of stumped and i don't know what the cause is.

Cheesewire, you say you lost your O ring once, what was the result of that? Did you have any problems with oil pressure or did you refit it before starting the engine again?

I got my crank oil seal, aslo called the rear main oil seal for £7 from GSF.

That just about sounds like what i had to do with mine. Hammer then chisel! I also got mine from VWspares. Febi stuff IIRC.

Just got one from Ford for £27. I just have to figure out how to tell my car it has to wear a Ford part now!

Excellent, thank you.

Gogsboy, how much did this piece cost you from Ford? Mine came off this afternoon so looks like i'll be taking a trip there too.

Sorry if the last post was a bit of a yarn. I've now sorted the problem. Basically i knackered the ABS sensors when i removed the beam. I now have new ones in and everything seems fine. At least i'll know in future how to take them apart.

I know! It was just a joke due to the alarming regularity that i have to fix calipers on my cars. Sorry.