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VAG Com will give the speed sensor code if the engine isn't running. Was it running while you read the code? I didn't think the MAF was such a critical item that the engine won't run without it since mine runs without it. I would suspect that you have a problem somewhere else and the lack of air intake data to the CPU causes it not to run. For example: if your engine runs lean or rich and the CPU can compensate with air data then it may be under or over fuelling when no data is present. That not necessarily how it works but just a suggestion.

There was a group buy on here from Roose Motorsport - http://www.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?63545-Silicon-Hose-kits-for-VR6-from-Roose-Motorsport&highlight=roose - maybe they would do it again. Obviously these are made by Roose, not Samco. I got a set in factory looking matt black which have been great.

I just found two threads, one uses a Bosch lens to good effect here And the other was the cross eyed one here I guess it depends on which model car you have as to whether this looks good or daft. By the way, the headlight lenses are easy to change - Pop the bonnet. Ease the grill out with a flat screwdriver. With a Philips, undo two screws on the slam panel holding the headlight in place. There's also another screw behind the unit which you can access with a long screwdriver through one of the holes in the panel. That one is a bit tricky. Put your hand inside and pop the headlight out, remove the electrical connectors (might be tough to budge). Remove the plastic surround from the unit and with a flat screwdriver gently pop the metal clips all around the lens (there are seven I think). The lens can now be removed though it may be stuck in due to age - be gentle. Reinstall in reverse and don't lose your screws like I did.

You might have to go to the dealers for the headlight lens. Be aware of that mod to the fog light glass. It was a while ago when I thought about doing that and I seem to remember that someone had done it and the car ends up looking cross eyed. There was something about the lenses where the new ones are flat and the originals are thicker one end to account for the curved front of the car. It looked daft if I remember correctly.

I changed mine a while ago and I'm sure you will need new hoses with the Golf 4 banjo connection. Goodridge do a Golf 4 conversion kit. Get the number and find it online somewhere - Awesome GTi/C&R Enterprises The handbrake cables will fit and the carriers are OK as originals too. I'm sure the slide bolts are fine also.

I might be interested but would like to see a good photo or hear a testimonial from someone here who has seen them. Could it be tinted? Is the relay and fuse included in the price?

From that post it seems the crank sensor will stop the car from running, not the cam as I thought. Still, worth a punt as you say. PM sent. ---------- Post added at 5:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:04 PM ---------- From that post it seems the crank sensor will stop the car from running, not the cam as I thought. Still, worth a punt as you say. PM sent.

It should run without the MAF. I was thinking £10 delivered, how's that?

The link you posted is the crank sensor, yes. I changed mine with no effect on my particular problem. However, I think the engine speed is taken from the cam sensor which is tucked behind the coil pack. It's easy to change and I have a spare one I can send you for a few quid if you want it. I would have thought that if the cam sensor is for the engine speed and it is faulty then your engine probably wouldn't run at all which may now be happening. I think you should change you fuel filter for sure since it's not been done for a while and then see what happens. I doubt your ISV has anything to do with it or it would at least start up and probably run ok at speed.

See my thread here for another alternative.

I have finally fixed my running problems! For the last two years my poor VR has been steadily running worse and worse. It would feel like it's running on 3 cylinders and loses power on very light throttle. There was no problem at faster speeds or high revs, just between 12-1800 revs. After changing all kinds of sensors, MAF, air filter, coilpack and cleaning the throttle, there was just one thing left to do - and probably the easiest - the fuel filter. With hindsight I think that's where I should have started but I found a broken knock sensor on the engine and some coked up air intakes and I was convinced that when the problem occurs the spark timing was out due to the broken sensor and the fuel was burning before the valves were sealed causing the coked inlets. I just stopped looking outside of the engine for the problem. I only changed the filter because I felt it had been sitting in my shed for long enough. By the way, I think the filter I removed was the original! It had done 15 years without fuss.

I was thinking the same about mine. I'm out of ideas bar the fuel pump.

Damn it, I need that. Mine is flimsy and useless.

If you still want one of these I have one for sale for £50 though it's not a Beru. It's virtually brand new only having been on the car for two days. I have an ongoing ignition problem and tried this out but it makes no difference to my problem so I put the original back on. PM me if you're interested.

Maybe it was your blackberry VR that someone had borrowed and kindly put back before you returned to the office. ---------- Post added at 11:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 PM ----------

I have Weitec GTs too and the caps over the top mounts stand proud also. I don't think I have any parts missing though and I don't have handling problems. I assumed it was just a quirk of coil overs but should they fit snugly like original shocks?

I'm willing to bet that it's neither the ignition switch nor the immobiliser. I reckon you'll find that it's the key detector ring that sits around the barrel. I had the same problem with mine where it fires for just a second then dies. If it was the ignition switch I imagine that it would also die at other times whilst driving. I got my replacement from eBay for not too much and sorted it out straight away. You'll have to take the cowling off from around the barrel & lock and I think the ring just unclips and unplugs - not too sure now. I did have to modify the plug that my new one came with though. It had a small lug on it which I shaved off.

Ok, no worries.

Hi mate, do you still have the Momo boss? I only need that, not the wheel. James

No no, it wasn't aimed at you. Just a comment about the general lack of care that some people show their cars and their encouragement of others to do the same. Regarding the cable ties, I accept that they may do a good enough job. I didn't expect that they would hold the switch in tight enough so that it can't become dislodged in the future. Having said that though, it does make it quite easy for anyone stealing your car to get it started assuming there's no immobiliser.

I just read more posts and didn't realise you had it out already... BTW, cable ties are asking for trouble. It's all well and good just smashing the old one off but you still need to do the new one up and you'll risk doing damage to the screw threads and possibly the back of the steering lock. If it's too tight to get anything on it then you'll have to grind the shear bolts like I did or drill out and re-tap and install new bolts - either new shear bolts if the old ones come out cleanly or any bolts that will fit an enlarged hole.

I finally managed to get mine changed today. Unfortunately, no amount of screwdriver bending was going to work and I had to completely disassemble the steering lock. I have a '95 VR with the adjustable steering column and round shear bolts rather than ordinary bolts like some people seem to have. I removed the steering wheel, indicator stalks and all plugs. I pulled the splined adapter, removed the circlip, spring and horn contact. Next was the two shear bolts. I had to grind them down to make flat sides to get some pliers on and gently turn them. One refused to come out so I Dremeled it down the join between the two halves of the lock body. I then drilled out the bit that stayed inside and re-tapped the hole. It took me a few hours and a lot of swearing because the steering lock would not release. In the end I had to drill into the body and release the barrel and then slide the lock across from the inside. After swapping the switch I reassembled it all and fitted two ordinary bolts in place of the shear bolts so I don't have so much grief next time. It all went back without any drama. I also took the opportunity to fit a new Momo steering wheel as my original wheel gets sticky in the heat. I now have a car that I can start with one hand and a nice, new steering wheel to hold on to. Tomorrow I will be fitting my newly polished 17s, HIDs on the main beams and all the lower dash panels that have been off the car for the last two years!

Hi I'll take your driver's side wing please. Can collect this weekend James ---------- Post added at 5:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 5:03 AM ---------- Hi I'll take your driver's side wing please. Can collect this weekend James

Bending the screwdriver sounds a much better idea than drilling. I'll give it a go. James

I read brief description in a Bently manual which mentioned the shear bolts though I can't be sure that it was the same for my car being British and a '95. It said that you 'may' need to drill out and use an extractor. I don't think there's any 'may' about it. I can't see how else to do it. I do have two bolts which look like they are threaded but the tops are rounded like a rivet. I don't even think you could drift them out due to the thread. ---------- Post added at 9:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:51 PM ---------- I read brief description in a Bently manual which mentioned the shear bolts though I can't be sure that it was the same for my car being British and a '95. It said that you 'may' need to drill out and use an extractor. I don't think there's any 'may' about it. I can't see how else to do it. I do have two bolts which look like they are threaded but the tops are rounded like a rivet. I don't even think you could drift them out due to the thread. I just looked at that link and the bolts in the picture are in the same location as mine but definitely not the same. I think they have been replaced at some time and my rivet looking things are the originals.