sc16v

Some nice people on the road arnt they :mad: Sometimes i would love to be copper in an unmarked car just get t@ts like this :D

The corrado looks so good on the outside that it doesnt need much doing it if anything. If i had a G60 or VR6 then it would be engine mods, but ive got an early 16v so trying to leave standard on the outidside (except for lowered 40mm) cant wait for 10 years time when the corrado will be proper classic car. :D

It always nice once you run your own wires and you know its tidy and safe. :D car should be lighter and faster know after the weight removed :lol:

Spoier, why not just check each wire with tester to see if any are live?. Only take 5 mins then you cut and tape the live ones off. :D

Help!! its doing my head in, i have about £500 to spend. and have come up with options but i cant decide which one, please point me in the right direction to making decision. 1) Fit two new Corbeau Carrear's seats in blue, to brighten to inside up and also give a new dimension to driving the C :D (there expensive though :( ) 2) Fit a pair cams and 50mm Inlet manifold. (already have K&N and Supersprint racing system) To give the car that extra edge :D (worried i wont feel a real difference :( ) :? :?

BeavisJem If the dent has not cracked the paint it is possible that a proper dent remover person could get this out for about £50. If it requires painting it should cost about £150+vat. (3.5 hrs lab, 65 P&M) But if the dent is within 12" of the next panel then add another £90 for blending. Of course this is a blind estimate. :D

The old seized rear caliper syndrome i suspect :D (if i had pound for every one ive replaced, i would have 2 corrado's :lol: )

MACCA- Sometimes new antifreeze can be smelt after it has warmed up for the first few thousand miles. So i wouldnt be to concerened at the moment unless you notcie loss of coolant and higher temps. It might also be where the coolant was drained and it has sat and stained parts of the engine, rad and lower front panel. and when the car gets hot it heats up the dried coolant causing the smell :) Just keep your eye on things

Only a web page link matey http://www.corbeau-seats.co.uk/road.php?cat=2

Hi i'm just in the process of buying some Corbeau Carrear's for the C. But i cant decide to go with blue ones as the mats are blue and they blend in really nice with car, or go for grey ones to replace the original grey ones. Just after some thoughts please :wink:

KARMANN- supersprint do a straight through link pipe on its own that takes the first and/or the second box. Ive just ordered this system with a backfire box for £350 But i think the link pipe is about £80 from CandR Cant wait to get mine :D :D

First check you could do is unplug each sensor and test for an open circuit, or high resistance in one of them. If there ok, remove each sensor and clean the ends, and also the rotor. and replace. If still no joy take it VW and get to put it on 1551/ 5051 and get a code of it. :D

There is a tolerance on heads, when skimming so there is a limit it can be skimmed to before it starts to alter the compression. As a rule its is adviseable to skim the head before refit to enusre to flat surfaces. (head and block) :D

Rack- why not try getting some KS pistons, TSR do them and i think stealth and C&R would also do similar or the same products. Have you looked at your oil cooler side of things yet, as serious mods like this really need some serious oil cooler mods as well. :D

Mike Edwards. Whats your idle like with those cams in. Ive seen and heard about some KR running rough and this is why its always put me off, I have few hundred quid at the mo so would consider this again :)

Who doesn't. Just be careful we dont run into the back of things whilst looking :D :lol:

You could do it yourself save money but gains might be smaller, than if pro did it. You can see gains around 15BHP but expect 10BHP, Cost should be couple of hundred depending who you use.

The cost of gas flowing ahead on a 16v head is not worth it... if your only stripping it down for that (ie if its running ok) on the other if its off for a reason then it's worth getting gasflowed. Chaning cams improves perfromance does make idle very rough indeed on KR engines though, But the only way to see big improvements is to put the 9A 2l engine in and fit KR cams to it 165BHP (with exhaust, filter etc) But trying to find 9A lump is very tricky indeed, they cost about £400 at the mo :D

VR6_2K2 wrote Yeah part carbon fibre, In all with fitting and painting .........£2350.00 :shock: :!: :shock: :!: Same price as a G60 in the autotrader. :(

Bloody flies. :mad: Went down A1 last night, car looks black from the front, covered in flies, Stands out on white car. White corrado's Looks great when cleaned. :D

How much is it costing mate. :?: Always looks good taking photos like that, before and after shots, cant wait to see the finished product :D

First step is to remove pads clean up, cut a small groove in centre of pad, copper grease and replace, This will help stop dust build up and help prevent squeal. The discs shouldnt be warped, and if they are you should feel it through pedal, or the handbrake if you pull it at low speeds. :D

Frostee, the fronts are harder to do than the rears if your not to sure. I would suggest book it in for the kit to be done, the book time is 1.4 hr fronts and 1.hrs for rears, If you do go ahead with post some pics on here so we can see which bits your having probs with. The rear shocks should have 17mm socket on the top of them that just unscrews, if the whole rod is turning you can but a pair of mole grips round the rod (must be near the though as any marks that are left by the grips if low down will split the seal in shocker) Good luck, and becareful with them springs :D

Frostee- not actually sure which bit your on about, Take the strut off the car, Clamp the spring together, then the strut rod itself needs to be held by either the VAG tool, 7mm(i think it 7 of top of my head) spanner or mole grips, Then you need to undo the metal sleeve that has two little bits sticking up, with either mole grips or punch/chiesel (it will be very tight),and is threaded on, this is where you hold the rod at the top or the whole thing will turn remove the spring fit, and refit the new one. :D

Made the donation to keep the best corrado site in action :lol: keep up the hard works folks :D Not got me 5 stars yet though :(