mikkijayne

Ah ok :) What about the exhaust on it's own? If you take a good whiff of that close up I bet you can smell it's rich at 0.8 Lambda. I would mark where the CO pot is set to and try adjusting it so it smells right. If you have a friendly MoT tester he would probably do this for you on the sniffer before re-testing it for a small fee. Also try holding a white rad over the tailpipe for a minute or two while it's idling. At 0.8 you will probably get a bit of soot on it. Tweak until the exhaust is clean. In case it helps, the G60 only uses the Lambda for closed-loop at idle, reverting to it's maps when running (so a broken one won't affect normal running or fuel consumption). If you unplug the Lambda it will run open-loop just using the basic map and CO pot settings. If you have a faulty sensor that is feeding the ECU bad data then unplugging it should improve the emissions, so thats worth a try before you buy a new one. Unplug it and see if the smell changes. If it leans out you have a bad sensor. I believe the CO pot is also only used to set the closed-loop idle mixture, but not 100% on that if anyone else cares to chime in? That does look like a stock Bosch sensor in the pic.

Why would that make it run rich? :confused4:

It isn't unheard of for the crank pulley to come loose, although its mostly a problem on TDIs and occasionally G60s. If the sprocket bolt has come loose then its likely that the sprocket has rattled around and damaged the end of the crank so it will be hard, maybe impossible, to time the engine correctly. Also if the crank nose is damaged the sprocket may not bolt on square either. What you really need to do is pull all the timing gear and covers off and have a good look at the crank. Post some pics if you can. Do not drive it like this! Until you find out more about the cause of the problem you run the risk of the crank pulley coming off, resulting in catastrophic engine damage. Where are you located? Perhaps there is a kind soul nearby who could take a look? Mikki :)

Wow with numbers like that the exhaust probably smells awful doesn't it? Is it blowing any soot out of the tailpipe? Can you tune it by smell? Do you have the stock chip? I've seen bad tunes on G40s fail emissions no matter what, so it might be worth sticking the stock one back in just for the MoT.

If that is the throttle cable then thats the kickdown switch for an automatic gearbox. Either the car has been converted from auto to manual at some point, or someone has used an auto throttle cable instead of a manual one. Assuming your car is manual then just ignore it :)

Thanks :) Thats all I need to know! I can modify my TRW now instead of searching for a ZF :wink: I will either cut it off and weld it back on the other side, or machine it flat and use a banjo bolt. The V8 is being built with provision for forced induction at a later date, but not how you might expect... 8)

Sorry I read my post back and realised I wasn't at all clear about what I'm looking for :roll: Here's a TRW rack: What I'd like to know is if the RHD ZF rack has the two pipes arrowed in red in the same place please? The middle one is right in the way of my bellhousing for the V8, and if the ZF one has it somewhere else I can move the engine back another 1/2". Thanks :)

Thanks for the info :) PS lines are no problem as they'll all be custom anyway, and I'll probably run the complete VR setup with wishbones etc. The main thing I'm interested in knowing is where the hydraulic lines are fitted to the rack. The TRW has one coming out right in the middle of the rack which is in the way of the bellhousing. I'm hoping the ZF rack has it somewhere else, hence why I need a pic, but if anyone can give me a description that would be equally useful ;)

Come on guys this is dead easy! The VR6 is only 8mm wider each side than the others, so it won't make that much difference. They have wider wings anyway, don't they, so it shouldn't make any difference at all! The 4-stud hubs fit in to the VR6 spindles with their corresponding outer CV joints on the VR6 driveshafts (or just use G60 driveshafts). Re-drill the brake disks to 4-stud (like someone has just done with 312mm disks) and you're done :) There are some OE disks that fit 4-stud hubs in 5-stud spindles, but I can't remember what they're from. The guys in the US put VR6s in G60s all the time and leave the 4-stud suspension, and their wheels don't fall off. Neither do they fall off mk2 VR6s, or the big-power G60s, 16Vts or 1.8Ts on 4-stud. I'll even swap you some 4-stud hubs for your 5s if you like :wink:

Bumpity bump! Pretty please with chocolate sprinkles can I have a pic of the rack? :worthless: It doesn't even need to be out of the car - just a pic down the back of the engine would be fine. I need to see where the hard-lines go in to the body of the rack compared to the TRW one. Thanks guys :turn-l:

Bump! Any chance of those pics please Toad? Thanks :)

That looks like a Bosch number, not a VW one, so will be pretty hard to cross-reference. Whereabouts is it on the engine? I'm guessing it is the crank position sensor which is down on the front of the engine by the starter motor / engine mount. If so the number is 037 906 433A. Price from the dealer is a rather scary £138, but the ADY engine was fitted to quite a lot of models (Corrado, Golf, Jetta, Sharan), and that sensor was also used on a couple of other engines so it should be possible to get one from the aftermarket. Hth, Mikki x

Cool so our VR racks are the same as the US one then. Does it have the two pipes going in to the body like the 16V one does, or are they somewhere else? Thanks :)

That V8 is already in a Corrado :wink:

Pics would be fab thanks. If you have part numbers to hand they would be useful to identify what years and models they are from, but no worries if not. Mikki x

Slowly, but very well 8) I'm doing a lot of fabricating at the moment, and getting stuff machined. It's kind of design and fab as I go along, so it takes a while as I only get the weekends to work on it. A lot of CAD too - Cardboard Aided Design :D A couple of months and hopefully I will have all the drivetrain sorted and bolted in.

Ooo really? I wondered what the extra set of holes were for when I pulled one to bits last week, but I wasn't really paying that much attention to the disks.

No, because the mk5 is 5x112 whereas the mk4 and TT are 5x100 :)

Hi everyone, Does our VR6 have a different steering rack to the 16V / G60? I know the US models have the TRW and ZF racks, but I've never taken a VR6 to bits so I have no idea if we have both types as well :? If we did get the ZF racks does anyone have a pic of it please? Thanks, Mikki x

Thanks guys. I agree on not adjusting anything if the cause is elsewhere. I just need to find it :? Not the air filter - thats pretty clean. Could be the cold start valve leaking. I'll look at that if I can get it out without the bolts rounding off. I'll check the thermo-time switch too. I have a spare one of those so fingers crossed. You can buy the plastic plug for the CO screw, but Etka doesn't show the screw separately. I could get it out, but I'd have to strip the metering head, and thats not something that would go back together on a bank holiday Monday! Ditto pulling the injectors without having spare o-rings... I'll do the electrical checks today and see where I get to :) Oh, and yes I still have the TDI Corrado. Its sulking under a tree at the moment though, awaiting an engine rebuild :roll:

Hi guys, Does anyone know what would cause a 1.8 16V to start running rich? Fuel consumption has gone up by 10-15% over the last few months and the exhaust stinks. It doesn't have a lambda probe so its not that, and unplugging the cold start injector has no effect. It starts and runs fine, although its lost a bit of pep. I would just tweak it with the adjustment screw but some numpty PO has snapped it off :censored: So, I need to find out what's causing it in the first place. All the vacuum hoses are intact, the idle switch and ISV seem to be working fine. Any suggestions would be most welcome! Thanks :)