
mikkijayne
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Everything posted by mikkijayne
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204K on the TDI, 180K on the 16V (time for a service damn!). Out of all the reasons for selling a 'rado, friends and family making snarky comments about it is not one of them :tongue: My mk2 is 22 years old now and most of my friends think its cool cos it's powered by clockwork :D I would never sell the Corrado, even though it doesn't run at the moment! If you still enjoy it then keep it :cat:
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I agree. I really like the Brembo discs and fit them to everything I own now, although I buy them from a local motor factor a lot cheaper than GSF. Still not found a particularly notable ordinary (ie non-performance) pad though. EBC Red Stuff have a horrible feel from cold, so I tend to just use whatever is available at the time.
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I reckon they've discharged and frozen then. Time to start looking for current drains I think...
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Are the batteries actually dead, as in won't hold a charge any longer? Or are they just flat? In this weather if they go flat overnight they could freeze, and then they won't recover. It could be a drain from something. I had a problem where it would randomly go flat overnight and it turned out to be a dodgy ignition switch leaving the fan on. That was in the summer tho so the battery was fine after a good charge.
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where are engine part number and gearbox' located?
mikkijayne replied to krnau's topic in Engine Bay
If the car started off as a 16V just leave it alone. If it looks like a 16V and the number has rusted away who's to know the difference? DVLA are absolute :censored: about changing engines these days anyway. If you change capacity or code they will require either a receipt for the motor stating the number and capacity, or an engineers report, or a letter from the manufacturer (yeah right). I just changed the motor in my mk2, and the number has rusted off that too. Still looks like a 1.3 though. Prove it ain't -
Ouch! What are the symptoms? To kill a battery that fast it would either need to be overcharging, or being drained flat every night. When you had the alternator checked what voltage was it putting out?
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Well I was lookingin Etka for the 323s (which seem to be SEAT only), and ran across some disks that are even bigger! Apparently the TT 3.2V6 has 334x28mm disks, with a 5x100 pattern :shock: Unfortunately they are £300 each :gag: So I guess I'll be using the SEAT ones after all...
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Nice one thanks! I hadn't spotted those :) One internet for you sir!
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I believe 312 is the largest VAG disk that will fit straight on, but is anyone aware of anything larger that we can use? I've looked at Audis but the hub centres are different. Is there anything outside VAG with the same hub size?
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Yeah thats the main difference. I think the Corrado boot is the same diameter as the Golf one, so you may get it to fit, but otherwise you'll need to get the Golf boot as well. I think the Corrado pipe is oval to clear the lower bonnet - not sure whether the round pipe would rub or not.
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Now thats a nice solution!
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We hit one a while back and it folded the wishbone up by 45* :mad2: Unfortunately it was on private land so we can't claim, but there are loads more opening up round our village. We're bound to come across one in the dark and damage something, especially since the 'rados lights are so dreadful. To the OP: if you still can't get it to track up properly check the subframe is still on square. It can move about a little by design, and if you hit it hard enough to damage a balljoint there's a chance it could have shifted. Compare the wheelbase side-to-side very carefully, and you will see if it's moved.
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I would say probably about 50mm yes. The ideal would exactly the difference in the rotational centre of the balljoint between placing it on top and below the arm on the hub. Curiosly most of the balljoint extenders only seem to be about 25-30mm long, so they don't actually keep the relationship between balljoint and tre the same. Not sure if thats by design or not though.
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Well on a stock car the wishbones point down. The idea behind that is that under compression as the wishbones move upwards the outer ball joint moves outward (in an arc). This moves the whole hub out, only by a tiny bit, but an important bit because that causes more negative camber at the wheel. This is to try and keep the wheel vertical as the body is rolling in to the corner. If you have the wishbone pointing up at rest then under compression the wheel gets positive camber which is bad for grip ;) The ideal solution to lower the car and still handle is therefore to raise the hub up compared to where it is stock, but keep the tie rod and wishbone as they were. That way you keep the factory handling characteristics, but with a lower ride height. Edit - yes in theory we should also be swapping the TREs from side to side to keep the stock geometry, but oddly I've never seen mention of that before. I'm not actually sure why they have that kink in them, and why they wouldn't just be straight. I'll try and find out...
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Ooo good stuff :) Is there anyone in the UK that sells the balljoint extenders or are they still US only?
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No probs :) Did you get all the electronics for the ABF btw? Its worth a few quid as a conversion, even without the engine itself. The manifold and throttle body are useful for Megasquirt too.
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Well the main question is are you planning to keep the ABF's motronic, or use the car's K-jet? If you got the complete motronic loom with ECU, immobiliser box and key then I'd say swap the whole lot over. Its CE2 so will just about plug straight in to the Corrado fusebox (with a few tweaks). All you need to do is put the ABF and KR engine looms side by side and strip out everything from the ABF loom that isn't needed (like lights, etc). (the corrado has two looms under the bonnet, the mk3 only has one) If you didn't get all the electronics then you will have to swap over the K-Jet like antinkariba said. Take the manifolds, pumps, sensors, brackets, etc off the KR and just swap the short engine over. The ABF inlet is very different to the KR since it has electronic injectors. Hth :)
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Has anyone got a picture of this rack from an RHD car please? It's like rocking horse poo to find one :brickwall:
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Unfortunately that wouldn't do anything at all, since the ball itself would still be in the same place relative to the inner wishbone mounts. The drop kits are designed to move the outer pivot point to level, or ideally below, the inner pivot, so that under compression the hub moves out ever so slightly to give negative camber. This is a compromise between bump steer and keeping the wheel vertical as the body rolls in a corner.
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The lower ball joints do change in '85 from 17 to 19mm, but yes the VR6's are completely different. I really can't think of a simple way of extending those like you can with the pinch-bolt type, short of welding something to them :?
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Hmm you've got me wondering now. I've been playing with mk2, 16V and VR6 hubs on the V8 and not noticed any difference. I shall have to compare them tomorrow :cat:
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Well that link up top says large ball joints, and anyway I thought all the tie rod ends are the same? They're certainly the same on the mk2, 16V and VR6.
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Wow really? It doesn't look like that much from above comparing the Corrado to the mk2.
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It could be that the heater core is silted up - also had that same problem on the mk2. What sort of condition is the cooling system in? If it is dirty / rusty / full of sludge and has been neglected then the heater core is where all the crud will end up. Try removing the hoses from the core and put a hosepipe to it. You should have no restriction in flow, and obviously it should be clean. On the mk2 it was very restricted and the water coming out was full of grit and silt. No amount of flushing would clear it out, so I had to replace it, although I had to pull the dash anyway, so fitting a new core was no problem. Pulling the dash on a mk3 is a most heinous task :?
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I have 245/35/17 on the back of the V8 on 8" wheels with ET35 (I think). They cleared the standard rear suspension before I took it off, although the arches definitely need rolling.