mikkijayne

Hey guys & girls, Well a few of you asked, so here I am obliging - specs and a few pics of the progress so far on the Corrado V8 :) Spec: * Audi 3.7L 32V V8, code AEW (from a 1996 A8) * Custom front subframe using original Corrado mountings - no cutting up front! * Audi 01V 5-speed FWD tiptronic transmission (from a 1998 A6) * Custom rear subframe - details tbc * Custom fabricated bellhousing * Modified Porsche 944 torque tube * Front wheels: Audi Avus 7.5x17 with 215 45 17 tyres * Rear wheels: Audi Avus 8x17 with 245 35 17 tyres Go to CorradoV8.com for the full story and details :shades: Mikki x

I would put a stanley knife blade (held vertically, sharp edge on the block) over the suspect area and shine a torch behind it. Stanley blades are ground about as flat as anything outside a machine shop, so that should give you a good idea. If any light gets through in that area you are probably going to need the block skimming.

We are basically making a battery here. Two dissimilar metals - zinc & aluminium, and an electrolyte - water (salt water in the winter). The joint between the aluminium and the galvanised washer produces a tiny charge as Aide said, and it transfers metal ions from one side of the 'battery' to the other. It starts off taking the zinc from the washer, as that is happier to give away ions than aluminium (hence why you put zinc anodes on aluminium outboard motors on boats so the sea water eats the zinc and not the outboard!). Once the zinc has gone the washer goes rusty and then you have steel and aluminium together and the process reverses. You then get the steel washer pinching ions from the aluminium heat shield which makes it oxidise really easily (making the white fluff), and the heat shield starts disintegrating. The best solution for this is to put a non-conductive layer between the two parts (as Aide also said), or just replace them every now and then before they go rusty. The rubber washers used to hold the heater box in would probably work, although they might be a bit small. Thin plastic sheet would also work as few of these clips are in a direct heat source, apart from the couple above the rear silencer. Manifolds and downpipes rust easily because the heat cycle they go through just makes formation of iron oxide that much easier. /science nerd :lol:

The chip-keys range from £35-70 from VW, and they will cut them to the original lock pattern for the car assuming it still has that. You will also have to pay them an hour's labour to code the new chip to the immobiliser in the car, as unfortunately they have a bit of a monopoly on that :mad2:

The wiring diagram for a 95 Golf AAA only shows a single lambda sensor, which suggests to me it might be OBDI? Anyway, the colours it shows for the MAF are: 1: brown/red 2: brown/blue 3: red/blue 4: blue :cat:

Would the wiring diagrams help? ABF engine wiring diagram ABF immobiliser wiring diagram :cat:

Its a standard M8 exhaust stud. GSF keep them in stock, as do most decent exhaust places. GSF usuallt have the copper coated nuts too, and they are only a few pence.

Cool thanks. I didn't realise they put them in the Passat in 93. Thats an early one then I guess :)

I'm also interested to see if anyone has a solution to this. You need the SKC from VAG to code the ECU, and they won't give it to you :mad2: There are apparently programs that can extract the SKC from the ECU, but I've not found one that works yet...

Really? Hmm I checked the 95 Passat VR6 and it said 288x25. Is there an earlier one than '95? Do you have a part number I can check? Just curious now ;)

Which Etka says are 288mm, hence why I was asking if you were using the VR6 calipers. Will the G60 ones work with the larger disk?

I just checked Etka and the early Passat VR6 has the same outer CVs as the Corrado VR6, so it looks like you do still need to swap them. Which calipers and carriers are you using with this? Presumably the VR6 ones to fit a 288mm disk?

Now that is interesting. I wasn't aware of that difference, but then none of mine have ABS yet so I have nothing to compare. The ABS rings on my new VR6 hubs are held on by M6 countersunk screws (the same type as the disk is held on with), so it would be simple enough to make some 10mm spacers and fit them on with longer screws. I will have to do that for the V8, as I'm using VR6 hubs in 16V spindles.

Whats wrong with re-drilling the G60 disks? The disk is clamped to the hub by the wheel, not the bolts, so a few surplus holes isn't going to matter. Audi disks come with 10 holes drilled in them as standard. I have heard mentioned that there is a New Beetle 5-stud disk that has the right offset for the G60 spindle, but I've never found it.

My exhaust place uses high temp silicone on stainless systems for exactly this reason. They say the silicone can flex as the system expands and contracts. I was skeptical to say the least, assuming it would just go up in smoke as soon as the system got hot, but its been fine for 6 months. As others have said, it's quite tinny and rattly from cold but soon quietens down to a nice hum. This is a Magnex system (I think from a mk3 Golf) on a 16V.

Nice one :D Ours failed today for crap headlights :mad2: The reflectors are toast so there is very little light output and no discernable beam pattern from one of them.

Here's a trick if you don't want to take the whole shaft off: Loosely bolt the CV joint back in to the hub, and bolt the hub back on to the bottom balljoint. Mark the position of the strut to the hub (so you can put it back in the same place and not mess up your camber), and remove the two bolts holding the strut to the hub. You can then use the upright bit on the hub as a lever to pop the CV off the shaft. A good heave towards you should do the trick, or you can tap the back of the hub with your aluminium hammer. The circlip is a C shaped thing that sits in a groove in the end of the shaft but it's profile is round, not square, so the CV can slide over it with the right persuasion. Good luck :)

A painless dent removal specialist will be able to sort that out no problem - they usually charge about £50-70 a panel, and the good ones can work wonders. A little spendy, but at least its fixable. Have a word with your VW dealer and see who they use to prep their used cars :)

I tried dismantling a 16V dizzy a while ago to swap the hall sender because the connector was loose, but concluded in the end that it is impossible :( Apparently you have to get the roll pin out of the cam-drive thingy so that you can take the shaft out, but there was no way I could come up with that would shift it. I ended up breaking a drill bit off in it :roll: I gave up after a while and just JB-welded the connector on to the dizzy body and left it at that. Been fine for 6 months.... Also worth looking at though is the connector on the wiring loom. One of the wires broke right at the rubber boot, which gave some odd symptoms - misfiring, and a bouncy tacho. I just grafted on a known good connector and it was fine.

How do you mean 'break cover'? I've been thinking about a project thread on here, but I can't see anywhere suitable, since this project covers all five headings in the technical section. I suppose it could go in the Gallery section? I am working on a web site for the project too, but thats still 'under construction'...

That is an interesting one :? That part number is for Golf & Jetta Syncro & Rallye 86-91, for both PG (G60) and 1H (Rallye) motors. The manufacturing date of 1998 implies it is a factory replacement for the original unit, although one would expect it to be 037 997 022 X in that case :scratch: You shouldn't have any compatibility problems with it in a Corrado though, since it will run the PG motor.

:lol:

Neither of those are earth. One of the wires on the stud goes to the alternator, the other one to the battery + terminal. The black connector is the starter solenoid which is a red/black wire from the ignition switch. The earth strap goes from one of the gearbox to engine bolts to a stud on the body between the battery and the washer bottle, like swiftkid said, then that stud goes to the battery - terminal.

VAGs ECUs are numbered NNN nnn nnn xx where: NNN = chassis designation (the same ecu hardware can be fitted to several different models) nnn nnn = part code (the actual hardware) xx = software revision (model specific) So assuming the nnn nnn are the same as yours then its only different software and *should* be ok. There are a few oddities though, like there is a version of the Rallye software that uses the O2 sensor full time, whereas the standard G60 only uses it at idle. Same for the Cali G60 too, to limit emissions. The ten digit number is the Bosch part code. I don't know how they work though.

Yes thats right.