Ralphead

Glad to hear it's going a bit better for you now. My advice regarding an injury claim is to keep a diary and write down EVERYTHING and record every phone call you can. My car was written off by a Transit up the back of it five years ago this summer, not a Corrado thankfully. Following this my wife has at least two forms of cranial nueralgia (impingement) and a TMJ (Temporal Mandibular Joint) location disorder, or put simply almost constant jaw disclocation. Thanks to an arrogant, uncaring NHS we have not had a formal diagnosis. Nor a conclusive medico-legal report thanks to incompetent, bungling lawyers (now sacked), and so no compensation. I have been her carer for nearly half a decade and have racked up over £10k in lost earnings and expenses relating to her care in that time. Not trying to put the scares on you. Just don't ever assume it's a cut and dry case however simple it appears. Keep every reciept, note and recording if you want to come out the other side somewhere near square one. Keep on top of the NHS if you have to use them. A copy of all your medical records is invaluable. Get them before the case starts so you can see what bs has been written about you by docters with a thorny stick up their ar5e. Remember your lawyer and whoever does the medico-legal report will read this stuff and judge you on it.

Put in a request to you local council for the maintenance records for the stretch of road with the offending hole/crater/gaping chasm on it. Also ask for their highway maintenance and inspection schedule. You have to mention that you are entitled to this information under the Freedom of Information Act. Do this BEFORE you complain to them about the road otherwise they have a get out. If the road hasn't been inspected in accordance with their schedule then that is Negligence and they owe you. If it has been inspected on time and is not overdue one but has been repaired or otherwise worked on that inspection then you can try suggesting that the repair was not done properly. It's a battle either way though. On my way to work there is a junction which they are patching up every few weeks. Sticking a bucket of cold tar in a hole and driving a Transit over it a few times is not a repair. The patch lasts a month at the most and then the road's full of cold tar and gravel again. This has been going on for at least four years so I know the cycle. My FOI request will be arriving at the council office this Friday with eerily good timing.. Another bent BBS, strut, stub axle and a split Yokahama for them to replace. More expensive then fixing the bloody hole properly.

Plug leads, bloody plug leads! After a year of messing about with rusty 4x4s it just needed a set of leads..

You could get a nice E36 M3 for that money, more feeling and performance than the 330. Or a Porsche 944 S2 or.. TTs just don't tickle me at all, yes they're very efficient but on the other hand they are just very efficient. How about this one?: http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C458176

Having rebuilt the warm up regulator once and making things better, then a second time and making it worse I replaced it. The problem's still there but better, I drove it a mile before it played up and then it was almost intermittant. I've run the engine with the warm up injector unplugged but it made no odds. I'll try clamping its supply pipe tomorrow in case it's physically stuck open, is this a possibility? Wiring is definitely worth going through, it was quite a state when I got the car.

What's the stealth mod on the warm up regulator? Would you be able to get it sent to me next-day asap? I'll PM you my number. Thanks

Bloody hell! That was quite a read once let alone twice! Thanks, it's alot easier to have those facts infront of me in black and white. Means they don't have to swim round in my head against the tide of ale and VW part numbers. So far I've changed the rotor arm & dizzy cap for new. Tried a different coil but changed back again, no difference. Triple checked all the plugs and leads for leaks. New fuel filter a couple of hundred miles ago. Tried disconnecting whilst running, and disconnecting then starting, both head temp sensors and the blue plug on the fifth injector, they all make things worse. All these checks have been done hot and cold. I was thinking head gasket but I'm not losing water or compression. It's still running perfectly from cold and will until the top rad pipe is just getting too hot to hold comfortably. It will then start running rough and missing at smaller and smaller throttle opening until the oil is upto about 60deg. and then anything just off the stop has it struggling. I'm becoming convinced that it's fuel. Too much or too little. Not knowing much about K-Jet leads me to think it's the warm up regulator that would cause that. I think the idle hunting in time to the indicators and the tacho jumping about to the tune of the headlights is another issue... It doesn't do it very often, not at all for two days.

That's what I was building up to.

Good idea, thanks! I'll try that tomorrow.

Have you got voltage at the starter solonoid?

Right. I've ruled out ignition. Got a strong spark at all revs, put a good coil (off my Volvo) on just to confirm it was as good as it could be. There's still a definite unburnt fuel smell, I don't like that. I went for ignition first, but starting it from stone cold today told me that it starts playing up as the hoses get warm, i.e the themostat opening. I was wondering if crap got through my old, or new for that matter my new, fuel filter into the k-jet's warm up regulator. That or the head gasket has gone. There is a fair bit of dampness in the tail pipe. Although I havn't had a chance to warm it up enough to rule out condensation. No water in oil and vice versa, neither are there bubbles in the header tank.

I've just this minute put a new cap and rotor arm on just for the hell of it. I found that having left the motor to cool for a while that it revved cleanly on starting up. But by the the time I'd closed the bonnet and climbed in it was back how it was. At idle it will, usually, be smooth as. So I'm happy that they're all firing. Now it's getting dark I'll go and see if theres any HT escaping out the leads.

So, a week or so back I was struggling to get any power without my engine missing. A couple of times the idle would be high and steady or low and hunting around between 400 - 800rpm. I replaced the fuel filter and everything went back to normal, until two nights ago. I dipped the clutch as I stopped at a junction and the idle was low and hunting again. I realised that the engine was cutting out when the indicator lit up and would fire again when it went off! Also when I flashed my lights the rev counter would jump, going to the redline if I held the stalk long enough! Today it's become undriveable, anything more than quarter thottle has the engine missing and even backfiring. It will happily rev to 5k under light throttle but will miss at any revs when pulling a decent vacuum. I'm thinking that there's a bad earth somewhere and I'm getting feedback in the ignition system, the same as you see in trailer lights sometimes. Thing is the lights and indicators don't always make a difference. I got my old Lucas electronic ignition manual out and tested all the components I can and they all check out. Just to rule it out I checked all the induction pipes for leaks and found one small one but patched it and it made no difference, so I'm a bit stuck now. Any suggestions, please? ---------- Post added at 4:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:42 PM ---------- Oh yes. I went though some water a while back and soaked the distributor. I could see the HT tracking across the outside of the dizzy cap and it gave just the same sysmptoms I have now. But the cap checks out for insulation with my meter.

The fact that I had to drop the whole pump, regulator etc. just to undo one bolt annoyed me so much that I binned the original filter clip and replaced it with a stainless jubilee clip. I can change a filter in 10 minutes now.

I always move over for a motorbike if I can and hang my left flasher for a moment. Doing that in traffic I can't believe how many times I see the driver infront check his mirror then move over into the bikes way! If every car driver had to ride a bike on the road for six months they'd pretty soon learn some consideration and it would weed out more than a few of the wannabe racers. But no, the tests for bikes are getting more restrictive and expensive while any moron who can parallel park and remember a few signs on test day gets to drive whatever they (or daddy) can afford to insure. I've never had a bike on the road, by the time I was 17 I'd been riding off road for years and wanted a car. I'd really like something small and quick to play with but I actually am a bit scared to.

Maserati Kyalami Citroen DS23 1971 AMC Javelin AMX BMW 3.0 CSL Volvo Amazon (I only one I do, and probably ever will, have)

Yesterday my 16v started stuggling to pull away after idling for any time. It's got worse today and stutters whenever I ask for a decent bit of juice. I'm convinced it's the fuel filter full of crap so I'm changing it tomorrow, maybe worth thinking about.

I have a set of RA's which came off a mk2 Gti. I'm told they're different to corrado ones, something to do with brake clearence but I don't really know. I'm running 256mm discs and they clear so all is good. Anyway, I bent one really badly in a pothole last week so am looking for another, it doesn't have to be particulaly clean as none of my remaining three are. I have a tyre to match my set so that's unimportant. I'm due some new tyres and that seems a good enough excuse for some more wheels! Anyone in Cornwall or Devon with a set of 15's for sale please let me know. I don't really know what I'm after, but no Halfords style blingy rubbish thanks.

Thanks. I did look over the door gaps and top of the pillars ect. and all seems good. It's not like I was going fast, that said I twisted the shell of a fairly modern Mitsubishi in a fairly minor hedge incident. We here are stuck in the EU now, 25 years ago maybe things could have been changed but we're integrated now, that and America will black ball us if we leave. Obama and Camerons late night phone call last week confirmed that. There just isn't enough of anything to go around anymore, too many people..

Cool, thanks. I'm all for harsh driving! If I could use those to adjust castor angle I'll be on them like fresh beef. It sound like you can. I don't need to be 15mm lower than I am now though. Would my knackered mounts be letting the front end sag? I'm thinking if it is then I may end up about the same.

Is that right? I want to be sure is all.

That's called a leisure centre in Cornwall.

Sounds good, let me know.

I'm not really on the road for meets at the moment. I bent one of my wheels on a pothole the other day and am losing pressure. Which leads me onto.. Have either of you got a set of 15s or one BBS RA for sale? Sorry to hijack but I figured as theres a couple of locals here I'd ask

Brakes will decide it.