Ralphead

A filthy dirty green Storm on an M plate in Tavistock, Devon a couple of weeks or so back. I've kept quiet till now as I was driving a Citroen AX at the time..

Thanks for the help. Sorry I've been so slack replying. I bought a bottle of G 002 000 compatible stuff figuring I could take it back on Monday if it wasn't right. My pump went caput (two days after an afternoon of machining spacers to get the damn pulleys aligned) and the fluid was brown so I had nothing to go on. The new (to me) pump is off a 2 litre and so is ever so slightly different so it's back to the lathe for another spacer. I'll look in to the G 004 000. It's cheaper than what I bought..

The pas oil reservoir on my '90 16v has ATF - 0L stamped on it so I was quite happy to fill it with ATF but I stumbled upon the owners manual and it says to use G 002 000. The chap in my local factors says my car is from around the changeover date so he can't be sure which to recommend. Help, please, quick. They shut in an hour. Thank you

Far lighter too.

You shouldn't have to touch any hard lines. There are two very short flexible hoses hidden up just infront of the beam to undo. My car dosen't have ABS but I assume yours does? If so ask someone who knows more than me about this, but I believe getting air in the lines is a nightmare to sort out. The axles are surprisingly heavy, especially if you're on your own using just axle stands and jacks.. Make sure you have plenty of support for when you unbolt it.

Ah, I didn't know they changed at all but these slaves are definitely different as well. Do you know how different the master's are? I just want to work out if they're compatible before wasting lots of DOT5.1, again.

Does anyone know off the top of their heads the bore of a 2litre 16v clutch master cylinder? The reason I ask is that I have bought a slave cylinder from a '92 2litre 16v for my '90 1.8 16v and it's got a 23mm bore rather than the 22mm of my original. My car has a 19mm master cylinder and I'm wondering if I'm going to have problems. I know it's only 1mm but it could make a big differance to the volume of the cylinder.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I just found that a chap 10 miles down the road from me has broken a Corrado so I'll go see him for conveniance and let you all know what happens. Rodmax: Here's an ad I put on a local forum for the carburettor, the price was optomistic on purpose as people on there tit about and I wasn't in a rush to sell it. http://www.swdubs.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=16893

Euro Car Parts? They're £44.34 on there. The pattern ones I found through Google are going for around £30, though that is plus postage.

Would you take £20 for it?

oops, yes it's the slave cylinder I need. Is yours a pattern or a VW one?

As per the title. They are to go on my '90 16v. Don't need to be gleaming shiny but fairly local and at a sensible price would be ideal. I have a Weber carburettor from a mk2 Golf to exchange if anyones interested.

I'm usually going to fast to hear any put downs! ha ha.. Even the Police flash their lights at me in appreciation of my cars beauty. A chap I met bought a G60 cheap because it had had a big tin of household paint chucked over it. Turns out somone who worked with the guy who owned it before had been playing away. When his missus found out she came to his place of work with said paint to exact her revenge, but got the wrong car. He drove a Honda Accord... ---------- Post added at 06:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:58 PM ---------- I've been harping on to friends of mine for years about how good rear wheel drive is. The truth is many people who aren't petrol heads don't and wouldn't know the differance. The Corrado is the best fwd car I have ever driven and has opened my mind alot. The problem is that now I have explain this to those same people who didn't understand (and probably didn't care) in the first place. So now I get 'that's, erm, front wheel drive isn't it Ralph? shame that'. *******s.

Left it sitting for 3 years. I bought it on impulse as it was cheap and in danger of being scrapped but couldn't afford all the parts it needed. Fitted the arb links underneath the wishbones.. Rolled it into the neighbours Renault Scenic. I'd taken the rear calipers off to rebuild so had no brakes but I needed to move it forward two feet. Cue a drawn out, unstoppable, slow motion collision, reminded me of Father Ted - Speed 3 with the milk float. There wasn't any damage to the Corrado until I kicked the sill with rage, lovely dent..

It looks alot bigger than my MS250, great saws. Good luck, make sure you've got a nice ball pein hammer.

I bought a pair of new bare wishbones fom avs to fit some Deflex poly bushes in and the quality was so bad I sent them back and refurbished the originals. Also the Deflex rear bushes are like a cotton reel in shape without their own sleeve like the originals have and due to the way the avs arms were made they just flapped about in the holes.

Is that an 088 in your boot? If you're handy with wood, I'm guessing you are, you could make quite a neat looking one like I did for my old Rover turbo. I made a former roughly the shape of my bumper from some softwood and hammered a peice of aluminium sheet around it. A bit of trial and error. I fixed it on with pop rivets and painted it and it looked ok. I'm not into stick on bits but it saved my bumper melting away.

It pains me every time I see a straight Corrado being broken up for parts. Not because I'm any more passionate about them than anyone else on here, but because they're usually tidier than mine! I understand that good spares are needed to keep others running but it seems a little irresponsible to take good examples of a fairly rare car and break it because the owner can get more money that way. If you run an old (compared to most vehicles on the road) car then spending money goes with the territory. There isn't a inexhaustible supply of Corrados, one day alot of people will be kicking themselves. I'm not suggesting that everyone does it my way, I bought a rough unroadworthy car and rebuilt most of the running gear on my driveway. It stands me at about £1000 all in not counting (alot of) time and tools. It dosen't make financial sense because I've ended up with a tatty looking 120k mile 16v which I'm still repairing every other week. But on the other hand I have a car I can take pride in and one which has given me the most fun I've ever had with front wheel drive. I realise alot people don't have the time and space, mechanical know how ect. to tit about with projects but these cars I see being broken aren't projects. They're are aging, well used vehicles which need maintenance and tinkering with. It just seems a waste sometimes.

I replaced every bush and joint on the front of my 16v, the arb ones only got changed for completeness but were probably the trickiest. I had the front of the subframe and the front sill jacking points on axle stands and supported the rear of the subframe with a trolley jack, one which is easy to control whilst lowering. Have some blocks of wood an inch or so below the back of the subframe at all times, just in case. Although you're only lowering the frame an inch or so the top of the engine will move a fair way so make sure there are no wires or hoses that will get pulled, this was'nt an issue on my 16v. Once you're all set up undo the bolts on the back of the subframe, slightly loosen the front ones and lower away. It'll still be tight, but doable. Have some washing up liquid on hand to help slip the new bushes in and Bob's your mothers brother. Oh and make sure the wishbone ends of the arb are up above the wishbones before you clamp it all up. I speak from experience..

The 50 I got to do up when I was 15 had a home made head gasket. Now I've made plenty of gaskets myself, preferably with proper gasket paper but corn flake packet'll do at a push. This though was a coke tin with the ends ripped off, then flattened out and rammed onto the studs coming out the barrel till they tore ragged holes in it. The hole for the bore was off by half and inch and all out of shape. The best bit was that being an MZ it never had a head gasket at all, muppets.

"Very minor scrape damage to o/s drivers and passenger door" Two new door skins at the very least, doors probably need replacing completely. The A pillar's got some serious damage to it, oh and it's on the n/s..

When I bought my 1.8 the airbox had had holes hacked in it all over, mostly on the engine side. All kinds of crap was getting in, so I cut some bits of plastic from a broken dustbin lid and gutter glued them over the holes. I had one of those nice turned alloy air intake horns with a peice of 2" pipe to fit laying about. Whilst the box was out I realised that the warm air intake pipe was the same size so I cut an inch and a bit off the stub on the box that it fits to, hole sawed a hole in the front corner of the box and got the poly pipe out again so create an new stub. I cut a corresponding hole in the plastic panel next to the rad for the other end and the horn. Fitting the pipe and horn took a little fiddling. A peice of coarse gauze from a 4inch air duct outlet fixed over the horn stops too many moth's and wotnot getting sucked in. Job's a goodun I'll get some photo's up when I can

Has anyone run 205/55 15s and do they rub anywhere with a gentle drop of 40ish mm? And what offset would be needed with a 15x7 rim? Mine's a '90 16v Thanks

Has anyone run 205/55 15s and do they rub anywhere with a gentle drop of 40ish mm? And what offset would be needed with a 15x7 rim? Mine's a '90 16v Thanks

Oh great. It's done 122k and the top ends rattly. It's back in for a re-test on Monday, I'll have them check it then. Do you know what it should be?