dr_mat

The system is supposed to be pressurised. Under normal circumstances you should NEVER lose fluid.

Could just be the head gasket, of course .. If an oilway is blowing into a cylinder. Is it running somewhat lumpy? Got an/many oiled up spark plugs?

*Don't* put radweld in !! What's the water temperatures running up to? If the 'stat is stuck closed and the car is routinely overheating the pressure build up will result in constant loss of water just because the pressure release valve on the expansion tank will do it's job correctly .. ! If the car is constantly going over-pressure then you should look into why.. Also note that if it hasn't gone already and been replaced, the top hose from the heater matrix to the cylinder head may well have split, just under the cable tidies where it's pretty much impossible to see .. Also note that if this hose *has* gone, it was probably caused by a weak engine mount ..

I doubt it, cos most Sciroccos won't do more than 130kph.. ;) But back on-topic.. ;) .. 1002 people in a country the size of germany is hardly representative, and 58% of this group is hardly a major shift either. And how do they make their claim that it's a "representative" sample? It may be representative of the different socio-economic groups, because you can look that up, but they might have just completely randomly stumbled upon the 581 hard-core environmentalists with a completely different opinion to the rest of society.. But that won't matter to the press, who will print the headline with glee..

I think you'll be ok. The late VRs with the "CP" code number ecus (usually a coil-pack equipped car) have soldered-on chips, which means you need to de-solder it and fit a socket before you can install your modified chip, but I think the AG coded ones are already socketed. But tbh you might find you don't need to rechip it anyway. The 268 cams aren't that far off the overall flow profile of the standard ones, so within some limits the ECU will compensate using the MAF and lambda readings.

They are almost always serviceable, this is absolutely true. It's just that for most people they don't have the time/know-how to service them themselves. After all, a brake caliper is essentially very very simple, there's not a lot to go wrong and therefore there's not a lot to fix ..

10 hours for HG on a four-pot sounds a lot.. I don't know for sure how much extra work there is because it's a G60, but a head gasket on most of the 4-pot 8v engines takes a couple of hours max..

I think you'll find there's a quantum resonance. You should do 101 mph, and the work just fine.

The problem is clearly chemical contamination, rather more akin to oil on the MAF than overheating or anything like that.

Take them out and put them in the living room to look at, while you drive around on some cheap cloth seats you don't care about. I mean, seriously though, these are SEATS just sit on them and be done with it. As long as you treat the leather periodically they'll last as long as they can, and you can't expect any more than that.

Yeah, the ECU refuses to start till a chip in the key responds. Like the idea about the dog. But you need something a bit 'arder than a red setter.. :)

Get a fuck-off big padlocky thing. It's a late VR, so it already has an immobiliser in the ECU.

Yes, I thought that ... Perhaps they wired the indicator circuit to the starter motor?? :)

Likely culprits: - crank sensor - immobiliser - coil/dizzy - fuel pump/ignition relays What did they do in the body shop? Anything they removed might now be loose ... The crank sensor is wired near to the front engine mount, so if they've had the front end of the car off ...

It's on a swing arm. If you swing the arm UP past horizontal with ultra-short shocks/springs, then it stands to reason that the wheel will be further forward in the body.

Those were dealer prices .. for VW parts, not pattern bits ..

Nope. Completely different surround and fittings.

De-badged to protect the investment in badges!! As for the ride height, well .. bit tall I know, but it still handles well and at least I can go sailing over speed cushions without stress .. :)

Sounds to me like the tensioner piston isn't holding pressure. It's suppose to stay pressurised when you remove the oil flow, but if it leaks then you get that "cold start rattle" every time. It's a simple job to replace it, or at least remove it, bleed it and replace it.

The Vauxhall's mpg-ometer was presumably just using inlet manifold vacuum as a guide to the economy of the car. The Corrado is using fuel-put-in/distance-travelled .. which is obviously much more accurate.

If the Engine Speed Sensor doesn't work, the car doesn't run, plain and simple. There can be borderline cases, but unless your car is stalling or stuttering or failing to start, you do NOT have an engine speed sensor problem.

Repairs can only be done if the hole is comfortably away from the sidewall. Middle of the tread is easy though.

Yes, they love it, changing wheels in sub-zero temperatures Jim. Honestly! :)

It's still an estate car... ;)

Pressures seem very high for a 2.0 ... Higher tyre pressure than you need will cause a loss of grip. Note also that the roads have been quite seriously greasy for a few weeks. And also that there's a load of white slippy stuff fell out the sky ..