dr_mat

This sounds VERY familiar .. take a look at the search, we've discussed this recently. Think the thread title you want is "bulb condoms"!!!!!

LOL, did you wear the old one out?? :)

And some more, got to keep the folks entertained...

If it was perfect subtractive colour mixing it would actually result in no light output at all .. (i.e. you'd have white light through a green filter which results in ONLY green light and when it reaches the red filter, all the green light would be removed too ..) But since neither filter is perfect, it results in a lot less red light coming out, which results in an overall more yellowy-orange colour .. But yes, this works pretty well.

What's the ampage output of the alternator? Full headlight beams, plus internal heating electrics (seat and rear window) and engine fans altogether will use around 60 amps on their own. Plus you need spark for the engine ...

I'm sure you do know your car's running characteristics better than me (it would be a little weird if it were otherwise!).. Just saying the only times I've felt a difference due to filling up with new fuel it's been because the car is now 65 kg heavier ... ;) Ok the VR isn't forced induction, so maybe it makes more difference, but I didn't think the G60 ECU was smart enough to make the best of changes like that.

Yeah but my point is that if they compromise the handling of the car for the two years that they last, that's two years I'd spend waiting for them to fail so I'd have an excuse to replace them. Don't let that happen to you ...

Ouch. For £150 you can buy three decent batteries, each of which comes with a three-year warranty .. Don't doubt the optimas are good, but are they *that* good? After all, a 64Ah battery is a 64Ah battery. One doesn't hold charge any longer than another. (Unless it's NiMH, in which case it goes flat in two months even if it's not connected to anything .. :) ) As for the OP, it's not unusual to find a Corrado with a flat battery. Have a dig around on the search for hints and tips about finding out if the battery or the alternator are gone. It also might be caused by a fault in the car's electricals, so don't assume it's even the battery's fault till you've checked it all out.

More and more I'm beginning to think that non-VW parts are just a false economy. They aren't as good, unless you just *happen* to find the identical part, from the identical manufacturer, just with a different label. Which doesn't happen often. Particularly if the dealer's fitting price scares you, I definitely think it's still worth paying the dealer's parts prices (or even better get genuine parts from third party sources!).

Want more grip? Lower the tyre pressure. Want taughter handling? Increase the tyre pressure .. the choice is yours!

I understand there can be problems with corrosion around the glow plug control relays, which results in them sometimes working, sometimes not working .. (Mate of mine had the same problem.)

Nice wheels, what colour are they finished?

They're also about 70% more expensive than stealth, if money is an issue.. (hah!)

It's measured differently, so you can't compare really. If anything, despite our headline figures being higher, the US ratings are stricter so there's less variance in the quality than over here.

And you think this is a positive experience?? Some chav comes running out in front of the Corrado clapping and I might find that I need a new bumper ... The amount of acceleration I perform to hit him would be proportional to the cheapness of his trackie..

Are they still all out to get you? ;)

Relays are obviously cheapest, but you can tell one fault from the other by the exact symptoms. Have a dig around in the search, there's lots of people had similar probs before.

Ignition switch/immobiliser coil/relays.

The sensor on the gearbox is only to read road speed, it should affect the engine's ability to idle. But hopefully the garage will plug in the computer and tell you what's wrong..

Check the coil pack for cracks ...

Has to be the rack.

Indeed, you wouldn't believe the number of places in Reading now where there's a six inch deep hole all around the manhole/drain covers. Clearly a botched repair job.

Noticeable difference compared to what? Given that your car is probably 10-15 bhp more powerful when it's cold than when it's hot, can you really tell the difference if you get another 5bhp due to changing fuel?

Advice: take it for an MOT. Cheapest way to find out if there's anything badly wrong with the suspension/brakes.

Thanks for that info. I think the impact on insurance really depends on the company. Having checked out with a few companies on the web, it won't affect your no-claims if they make a full recovery of the costs true enough, but it does impact your premium (we checked this out with some anonymous quotes, as it happens), and some companies increased the premium after declaring a non-fault no-claim-made accident. Of course, you have to declare it, even if you don't make a claim against your own insurance, because there's a big shared insurance database.. I think the best outcome is - car checked over by reliable mechanic, given clean bill of health, bad guy pays garage direct. We incur no costs, no claims made, no insurance record.. But I don't know if that's going to be possible.. His car *would* have had a fair amount of damage to the front bumper, in this hypothetical situation, so I doubt it'll come to less than the excess and he'll wind up claiming. We shall see. Any other experiences and thoughts welcome in the meantime.. :)