dr_mat

Will be interested to know, cos they're doing a service for me in a few weeks time!

Erm.. what engine you got?? Very much doubt a '97 ECU will plug into a '92 loom and sensors array ..

Funny though, I've never heard of anyone claiming that a G60 needed work to hussle along quickly. Everyone usually says they're torque monsters from really low revs.. (Seen Henny's torque graphs to prove that!) Would love a torque curve like Henny's on the VR actually. Big V6 effortless smoothness and NOISE, combined with absolutely flat torque curve from 2500k upwards, now THAT is what an engine should be. Am getting a little fed up with the flat feeling the VR has after that monster schrick torque lump tails off ..

Mine, clearly..

Vince told me it pulled 217 bhp once, when it wasn't fully warmed up .. but he may have been mistaken. Anyway - the quickest way to 220 bhp on a VR6 is a significantly lightened wallet.

The only result is incorrect fuelling. It can be over or under, therefore you can wind up with stalling, rough running, flatness, pinking, black smoke, all sorts of things .. all of which can also be caused by other things ...

They never pay back pro-rata unless it's a very special policy. Most policies, even if you're paying monthly, state that you'll have a 50% refund after the first month or something ridiculous, even if you cancel 31 days after the start of the policy. Very expensive way of doing things. ..

Maybe with an oscilloscope and a controlled air flow environment ..

Ring your insurer - they will probably have a "recommended" fitter. You'll wwind up paying a much larger fee if you don't use their recommended people.

I've usually been charged about £8 a tyre for this, depends on the place. Most local places will do it.

No, all my friends think I'm perfectly sane. Now pass the dried frog pills, bursar.

I think you've explained everything for yourself. Well done, now go have a pint of beer and relax. ;)

Don't think UK Corrados got brake pad thickness sensors. If the light's on, it just means the ABS is disabled. VAG-COM or VW 1551 diagnostics tools is the quickest way of finding out what's wrong. But in the meantime your brakes will STILL WORK.

About ->| . . . . . . . | 21w, bayonet fitting. Halfords sell them.

It's a faulty gearbox mount that usually causes the "slop". The standard front mount in working order should be adequate for most.

Anglesey: island off the tip of north west Wales http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=anglese ... 2509&hl=en Gotta be the speed wire if the problem started when you changed the stereo - make sure it's not earthed to anything if it's not connected ..

50p? £50? Are you asking for offers? Given the randomness of the ebay brigade, it's likely you'll get either of the above figures.

See, I had assumed that the non return valve would be on the return-to-sump side of the head, not the supply-from-pump side.

Surely that would result in excessively HIGH oil pressure? ** edit - but I suppose it depends where you measure it!!

Surely 10w40 is the same thickness as factory-spec 15w40 when it's at 100 degrees while sitting in traffic? Therefore clattery tappets either means bad tappets, bad oil pump or oil blockages..?

I can see how it would produce lower oil pressure slightly, but can't see how that would push oil past the rings! The crank case pressure should be equalised into the inlet manifold via the crankcase breather valve (which should really be called a filter), so low oil pressure or not, that shouldn't make any difference, imho! Perhaps there's something I'm missing?

Most likely they would charge one hour. It shouldn't take quite that long, from what I hear, if you know what you're doing, but they never charge less than one hour ...

No, you lost me, how do the main bearings make it smoke?

I never see any smoking from mine, but I think I'd need to rig up a camera behind the car. I'm usually too busy looking forward .. :) Plus I'm only using 1 litre of oil in around 8k miles, so maybe I don't see any cos there isn't any..

How much oil's it using?