dr_mat

Sunroof.

VW sell 'em. Don't think they're too pricey new. Don't know how hard it is, I don't believe it's too tricky though.

You had the timing chains, tensioners, guides, clutch replaced AND the aux belt and it's tensioner? They're at opposite ends of the engine. I mean, you might have done so, in which case either your new aux belt tensioner is fecked or the belt is catching on something on the way round.

The ECU wouldn't have got "confused" by the incomplete reset procedure, it just wouldn't have made it to fully adapted state, and it will take much much longer to do so. I would have expected it to be the other way around though, tbh. Not that I know, but always assumed it would run slightly richer with default settings and then lean off over time as it adapts. Now that you've started the ECU reset procedure, you should do it properly, as you've blown away the previously adapted settings. Meanwhile, the knock sensors are a fair bit cheaper than the crank pos sens. They're just little microphones screwed into the block which the ECU uses to "listen" for pinking or detonation. If they're working and your engine is otherwise healthy you shouldn't really ever hear any pinking. The ECU will have already picked up the tiniest amount and backed off the ignition timing before you ever hear it.

Either you have a sneaky VSR (and an unsuitable engine map), or you've got one or more faulty knock detectors I'd say.

I had a double posting (again), and had to delete the second, leaving a broken 2nd page maybe?

I never said anything against Stealth, check my post history. I like Stealth's attitude and will continue to use them, despite their location being miles away! You do slag me off every time I say the L word, actually... As for the slander/libel issues, recent news reports have shown that legal liability for postings on a forum such as this CAN cause problems for the owner/maintainer or the ISP. I don't believe it should, and think it's a stupid situation, but that's how it is right now. As usual, I'm just trying to help.

Alright, that wasn't quite what I meant. Never mind, who cares anyway?

You don't have to read it, if you don't agree with it.

Not that I have anything against Stealth racing (I will continue to use them myself), but I sometimes find the evangelism on the forum here is a little weird..! :) Are we becoming the StealthRacing PR arm? (They don't seem to need it!) And it's not very helpful (or legal, come to that) to state things like "XYZ are a bunch of bandits". Hardly going to stand up in a court of law when lawyers come knocking on Andi's inbox, is it? Careful what you say, eh?

You will probably find that the heater is happily blasting air at either the screen or your feet, but the feet/face flap is stuck or the control is broken. Common failing.. Careful of the VR6 "engine speed sensor - no signal" fault - that just means the engine isn't turning, not that the sensor has failed. Bust lambda will result in "failsafe" fuelling map, however, so it'll be a long way from at it's best.

Perhaps we should have a vote on it?

No kev. But I'll bet it's not as stiff as turning a 20vt cam, with nearly twice the valve count. Your point being? And the 1.8t uses rubber belts..! And it certainly doesn't have to transmit 100lb/ft like a bike chain. I'm no expert, but I've never ever heard of anyone recommending replacing the sprockets.

Can't remember which measuring block it is, but VAG-COM tells you what each value is reporting... Well, the coolant temp sensor should read more or less what the dash gauge is reading, at all times. If it jumps around, or just doesn't change, it's fecked.

Yes, about two brakes lines and two valves difference... Highly incompatible.

The timing chains don't exactly carry a lot of load here, they're not subject to the same forces as the drive chains on bikes and heavy machinery. They're only turning a couple of camshafts against a few valve springs..

Tickover on the VR is 650 +/- 100 rpm. Nothing wrong with that. Six cylinders, remember? If the blue temp sensor is fecked, it should be visible on an engine diags scan (or at least will be visible if you watch the ECU reported temps during the warm-up phase). Get it scanned.

Always start at the bottom. Engine speed sensor? £140. ECU relay? £9. As we keep saying over and over and over again, the VR6 will always report "engine speed sensor" failure in it's diags mode if the engine isn't running. That is why the RAC and others (who know no better) always have you throwing money away on VR6s that won't start.

Sorry no, but one was on ebay, part number on that was ... 021 906 433A. I should point out that although this was listed as being for a Corrado VR6, I have no idea if that's accurate or not.

Immobiliser? ECU relays? Crank case sender is a very expensive "suck it and see" first try ..

"Holy cow, it's the new Corrado!!!" Errr. Not. Looks way too "cute".

You mean so you can check that the one on ebay is the right one?

There's been a number of stories. Inevitably, given the press's lamentable lack of imagination, every time VW comes up with something small-ish with two doors they start screaming "IS THIS THE NEW CORRADO!!??". It's never true.. VW lost shed loads of cash on the Corrado. If they make another Coupe it will be MUCH more closely based on the Golf platform (and hence much cheaper!). And then it would step on the toes of the Seat Leon, tbh...

Pure maths says 600mA draw will drain a 64Ah car battery in 100 hours give or take, or around four days... 150mA is much more sustainable, if your battery is in top condition and is being charged well. Check the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running. You should see most of the alternator's 14.2 or so volts right across the battery terminals. If you do, and the battery is still going flat very quickly, then it's probably time to swap the battery out.

Yep, that's the bunny. Mine went too, and the RAC man managed to cut the hose slightly shorter and that sufficed for a month or so till I could get the replacement sorted.