dr_mat

Don't think it should. After all, the exhaust issue has always been and will always be a matter of personal preference. Those that believe the light-weight alloy pipes will improve performance will always prefer those. Those that want trick tail pipes will obviously go nowhere near the OEM pipe. Those that want Chavvy-Nova sounds will have other priorities. And so on .. A poll would just show what type of exhaust MOST people who replied had. Unless there were 3938 votes (*) it wouldn't even come close to being representative of the forum's opinion anyway. This thread was created for people to give them opinions on the massive number of different exhausts out there, so that those looking to choose can make their own minds up. And so we don't have to go through the same routine once every week or two.. (** - There are currently 3938 members.)

I don't think it's a good idea to go near braking hydraulics unless you know what you're doing. I appreciate that it's probably not *hard* (just like plumbing, really), but it's kinda more critical. You don't risk dying if your taps leak after you fit them...

No chance. If they're OE they're Hella. No-one else gets OE status for Corrado lights. That said, as long as they don't piss YOU off by e.g. leaking or looking crap, then I doubt any MOT tester is going to pick up on them. (As long as all the lights light up the right colour, who cares?)

I reckon he's bought a set and is testing the water before fitting them. LOL. Like I care what you lot think anyway! No, I'll leave you lot guessing. If you see a C round Reading area with Lexus lights you'll be wondering if it's me...

Light entertainment.

Bling or Bleurgh!? Are these lights: a) fantastic, must have them now b) worthy of consideration c) bit iffy d) bad e) so bad they make me want to stab my eyeballs with a fork f) I stabbed my eyeballs out with a fork and they're STILL bad I'm going to vote "z" ...

Ok. Never had any major issues with mine. Sure there's a tiny bit of a judder if you try and pull away with the revs down at less than 1k, but nothing major.

I'm sure it wouldn't actually break.. it just might go funny on the PAS side of things...

Which are made by LUK or SACHS, apparently. He got my clutch from VW I think, and it's an LUK.

I thought about it... But decided I prefer the black leather look.. ;)

That would imply that both the temperature sender for the dash gauge AND the fan thermo switch were faulty.. in the same way ... Unlikely, but not impossible.

Ok get this over with quickly shall we? Corrado VR6 Genuine VW Exhaust. Opinion: Original exhaust lasted 8 years, obviously fit+finish are superb (even after 8 years), no clunking, no knocking, no rattles, subtle tone and everything. I replaced it with .. another VW exhaust. £155+VAT from GSF for the centre and rear sections. Had it fitted by a local VW specialist, have had equally few problems with the replacement as with the original. Fitted once, forgotten.

They never can be conclusive, given that people are looking for different sound/tailpipes etc - it's a personal taste issue. We need an "which exhaust FAQ"..

(So good they posted it twice...) Loss of water isn't normal. In my opinion a noticeable drop in water level between services means something is not right. The degree of problem obviously dictates whether it's worth chasing yet or not... But then if you've a marginal case, you might find your case suddenly becomes major one day when you need the car.. very annoying!

It certainly looks like it's in three pieces there....

Why not just throw out the back seats and all that unnecessary trim. Make it up in power/weight rather than just power...

"There doesn't seem to be any leaks." Classic. There was another thread recently where someone had eratic temps and it turned out to be a blown hose (though of course it only blows when up to temperature, AND the location of the break is under the plastic engine cover near the throttle body so you can't actually see it). Which we tried to tell him for days and days until he finally changed it and ... problem solved..

That was obvious - the fan temp sensor is in the rad, so the fans wouldn't be on at ALL if the radiator was cold. The most likely explanation seems to be air locks, induced by a leak somewhere. Prime candidate is the hose that goes from the heater matrix to the back of the cylinder head... I'd get the coolant checked for oil or exhaust gas contamination too..

Oh god the weekly "which exhaust" thread... Well I have a VW one and it's lovely. PLEASE will someone find a BIG "which exhaust" thread and sticky it??

Hmm. Interesting indeed. How might the inner ball joints dimension matter if for example you were to fit VR track rods onto the G60 rack? (And you definitely have to clamp up the rubber UJ boot to the new rack - you'd be surprised how much engine noise comes through that if it's not tightly connected to the rack...!)

As I understand it, if that Mk3 was a non-GTi model, it should be the same as the early Corrado racks. VR6's "plus" suspension had a different rack, shared with the Golf 3 GTi/VR6. In fact, all that may be different is the UJ connecting shaft - later cars had more (or less) splines. If you got the UJs with it though, it should still fit fine..

The VW one even from the dealer is £350+VAT so around £420 from the cat-back. From GSF/ECP it's even less.

Yeah, looks like C+R sell 'em. I assume Stealth can get hold of 'em too tho..

It'll still be a diesel passat estate ... ;)

How much power are you running on your VR? The standard clutch is more than enough for most people with superchargers, so there's not much benefit in switching. Put it this way: Vince is usually pretty quick to suggest upgrades when it's a no-brainer, and he usually just fits LUK or SACHS standard clutches without a murmur.