dr_mat

The only engine that had both, iirc was the VR6. The ECU needs to be CP aware, so you wouldn't be able to get a G60 running coil packs without changing quite a lot of the engine management. The Distributor for a VR is upwards of £150+VAT, which isn't far off the price of a coil pack...

Neither am I... Take it easy till you know what it is, but it's probably something loose..

Since NINETY FOUR?! It's in the service schedule every two years!

The bentley manual suggests that you should always replace the guide pins whenever you replace the pads. Not a bad suggestion for a few extra pence. But most places don't bother. I suppose it's ok if they're cleaned though..

Stealth fitted my disks+pads, so I'd hope they did the right thing...

OBD1 and OBD2 co-existed. All Corrados are OBD1, but late VRs have OBD2-style connectors.

1) Stick a voltmeter on the battery. 2) Use the search to find previous threads detailing this stuff.. ;)

I've had REALLY loud squealing from my front brakes since getting new (VW) disks and pads fitted a short while back. They work really well, but slowing from low speed is a killer, it's really deafening! Any hints/tips? I forgot to mention it to Stealth when I was in there a couple of weeks ago to see if they could do anything. The brakes are not overheating and don't seem to be binding (well, most of the time they don't).

Look at the top of the struts under the bonnet. They should both have the same gaps (assuming you've left the wheels pointing straight ahead). Also look for problems with clunking or excessive movement laterally in the top of the strut.

Yes. For a standard VR that's quite normal. (As the search would have shown from a hundred previous threads!! ;) )

More likely to be something cracked, resonating. There's more engine vibration at tickover than at higher revs.

The magic phrase " .. and when joined with a nice cold air feed.." .. Not exactly indicative of the effectiveness of drilling the box on it's own then, is it? ( ** I'd like to point out that I've not tried it so can't actually comment on the effectiveness myself. I'm just trying to apply a little scientific rigour here.. :) )

Timing is all electromagically controlled on the VR. Can't adjust it manually. When does it make the "weird tinny noise"? If it's between 3000 and 4000 rpm on 75%+ throttle, then welcome to the joys of Schrick manifold ownership (it's pinking). If it's not, it's something completely different..

MAFs can be a problem on the Scoobys. And then you destroy the engine if it's not caught in time... (Such is the problem with turbos - it's critical to get the fuelling right!) As far as performance is concerned, I have no doubt that a WRX will destroy a standard VR.. but hey, that's what you expect, right? Apples vs Oranges, mate.

Flush the coolant again and put G12+ in there and see where you get to. Your 'stat should open at 80 degrees, so normal water temp should be 80.

It's chamois, and it's french, that's why no-one English can spell it!! http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... sh+cleaner

I'd say if it doesn't get any worse, yeah, go for a fluid change and full system bleed out (don't forget the ABS system).. But if it gets worse it's very likely to be the MC - and you don't wanna find out that's what it is at high speed coming up to a corner!

It's funny how many threads you see saying "wanted: undrilled airbox" ...

It's possible the system just needs bleeding, or the fluid needs changing, but the fluid would have to be extraordinarily old to get soft-pedal problems on a 40mph stop. I mean, stopping from 100 or so will challenge the system, but stopping from 40 barely warms it up..

Sounds like probably master cylinder I'm afraid.. Yes, you should be worried!

If you're looking for suppliers for all the bits, give Stealth Racing a call. I think they have sources, and they'll probably be able to order them for you.

Well it's not a1, perfection, but on mine the chain was scoring grooves into the sides of the rivets...

Can't really see very clearly on that tensioner - how deep are the grooves?

Oh, and btw, I am told that gear oil can take a few thousand miles to settle in to a gearbox. Inevitably it will be stiffer when cold, your old gearbox oil had been in there for 100k miles and had been sheared away to tiny little short chain molecules by now. The new stuff is how it *should* have been from the factory... Halford's generic gear oil is good enough, but if you're feeling particularly rich then redline MTL has lots and lots of good feedback. But you definitely need to give it time to settle in.

I hate it when garages don't tell you what they're doing. If there's a choice of different oils (for example), I want to be told what choice there is, how much they are, and a summary of the pros and cons for each... A local place to me changed the oil and tried to charge me £31+VAT for Synta Silver.. I was gobsmacked! Shome mishtake shurely..!! Well yes, there was some mistake, so he did some work for free later on, but I wasn't warned, I wasn't told in advance, I wasn't even given the choice...