dr_mat

Um, how? They're integral to the main valve block. I believe it's possible to overhaul the valve block, but it's a pretty specialised job. I suspect you're going to need a new ABS pump unit mate... Same thing happened to mine. I suspect that the left rear outlet is the first one it tests during it's POST, so that's usually the first one that flags an error code when the valve block is buggered.

I think that's right. Just make sure it's the £30 impulse sender they get you, not the £140 one...

Quite possibly. But then, a Beetle never got NCAP tested, did it! :) The only thing seriously negative about having the battery inside the car is the prospect of an acid bath if you roll it!!

... unless you have a late VR, which barely hiccups when you disconnect the MAF at idle... But you'll notice big style as soon as you try to rev the engine with the MAF disconnected...

"If you decide to put it in the boot or car interior etc it should really be placed in an enclosed battery box that is externally vented."

If I could quote from the vehicle inspectorate regs I would. But I can't. Just a hunch. If you're that bothered look it up.

The boot is not the passenger compartment. It's a sealed gel battery anyway, so no big deal.

Battery INSIDE the car? Wow, weird. And I'm sure that's gotta be against some sort of safety regulation ... Lead acid container stored inside the passenger compartment? Not sure about that, but I'd double check with some people if I were you.

15W40 is what's recommended in the book... Particularly if you're doing lots of short journeys and cold runs you'll want the best quality oil you can find...

ECP/GSF: They don't have any, because there are no more. Trimsport make up obsolete badges in situations like this, but I think they were reluctant due to mold making cost last time someone approached them about it.

Or, much more simplified, it's 120A, which is 1400W, which is about 2bhp. This alternator is some 50A higher capacity than your current one, which is about 0.8 bhp by that reckoning. But of course, there's more to it than that, as it's not 100% efficient, so: I'd say at 80% efficiency, the extra 50A will cost you around 1.0 bhp. So not a lot then... (But as Henny pointed out, most of this electrical drag is load dependant anyway. If your're just running the engine, and no other electricals the only difference is the slight increase in rotational inertia of the stator and coils, which is even less significant.)

Best not to assume, since everyone else has stated that RHD panels are no longer available.

I thought all those tubes were fuel tank breather lines?

From VW? Really? Wow. They must be forgetting their screw-the-corrado-owner money making rules. I thought there were only two part numbers for bits on the Corrado: 1h0 297 295 - Corrado, left half 1h0 297 296 - Corrado, right half

Slightly OT, but can you buy replacement bee-sting aerials (not the crappy chrome/aluminium/sequined/glow-in-the-dark/blue-led shite, the real VW thing), without the base? I hear that VW will only sell you the aerial with the booster amp for like £70 or something... The VR looks like it went under a really really low bridge...

The only downside to having a bigger alt is that it will have a slightly higher inertia and a higher resistance to turning, so you might lose a couple of bhp, but it's pretty minor.

About £70, iirc.

Rear brake compensator is hardly tricky... Theoretically you need a "special tool" to reset it when it gets replaced, but most VW specialists can handle that sort of thing with no worries..

Sorry, I read the word "unchip" and inserted an "i" ... :) I'm sure stealth or any decent VR6 tuner will have a copy of the standard map they could burn for you.

You'll be driving the Saturn 5 rocket by the time you're 30?

Sure about that? The unichip is just a differential device - unadjusted it does not alter the settings of your existing chip. It can be used to modify the profiles of any chip, even non-standard ones. Whether it's worth it is another question...

If the crank sensor is dead, the engine won't fire. It can be marginal, however, which will cause problems. Note that any time the engine is not turning it will report Crank Sensor: No signal. The engine must be started before this error will go away.

Setting a high standard for yourself there. What's next? AGE 22: 1972 Mini 1.0 (oh and a house, wife and babies) RR @ 38 bhp ;)

But then, the scoobies have an extra 30bhp. Power to the ground is probably similar, VR6 and Scubaru. And as has been stated, 4wd always wins from standing starts.. YMMV. I wonder what Stealth can do to an old VR for £5k though...

Erm.... nope. The VR's traction control is a function of the ABS system anyway.