dr_mat

I'd call your old insurer back and get them to match the quote, if you're happy with the service.. :)

OIL doesn't. Vapour does.

Don't forget the UK gallon is a proper gallon. Your US gallon is around 500ml less... ;)

It's not a theory, it's fact. More common cause is lots of short journeys, and the car being kept outside over the winter. It actually boils out of the oil when you get the car up to full temperature, cos the oil goes over 100 deg C in normal operation, so it should go away after a long blat. (Don't forget the filler cap is shielded from most of the oil flow, so it'll take much much longer than you might expect to get rid of all the foam under there.) If in doubt, see if there's any oily film on the water in the expansion bottle..

Heater matrix bypass valve? Knackered water pump?

They *usually* charge half-an-hour labour for a diags scan, but that's discounted against the cost of any repairs that they carry out. You might get away with less, since you appear to have a good relationship with your local dealer, but most people can't claim that round here.. You are allowed to drive on the road with no MOT providing you are ON YOUR WAY to getting it done. For a quick check, the resistance of the wheel sensors should be around 2k ohm. Much lower than a few hundred ohm or much higher than 10k ohm and you're got a fecked sensor. There *are* detailed test procedures that can be carried out to work out which component is faulty, but they're not documented anywhere other than the factory repair manual (£60 from amazon), and to be honest the ABS ecu has already done that for you, so your best bet is to probe it off the ECU.

Might not be yer clutch. Sounds more like you've got hydraulic problems to me mate...

"Small yellow reservoir"? No idea... Which side of the engine bay?

Sounds most likely that you have a clutch slave cylinder problem. You may or may not need a new clutch, it could just be the slave cylinder failing to close the clutch properly...

Spooky. I've been getting N176: rear left outlet valve on my VR ever since the timing chains and clutch got done.. I have a replacement modulator unit to go on when I get round to it, but I wondered if it was related, too.

Unfortunately it's about as accurate as a chelsea supporter on the way home from the pub trying to p155 into a bottle in a force 9 gale. The guage is a guide, at best. Plus the fact that it reads more when you brake than when you decelerate and that it reads more while the car is moving than when the tank settles and yada yada yada... Don't assume anything. You know how big your tank is, so fill up when you hit the red. If you put more than 65 litres in you left it too long! :)

Hey, it's learn-along-with Blue Nothelle again....

There's a quicker and easier way to diagnose ABS problems... VAGCOM/VAG1551 error code readers. Any decent VW specialist should have the facility to read ABS error codes.

Mine's still a pint... ;)

It's all bollocks, that's what it is, I tell ya!!! ;) (Mine's a pint...)

Apparently it's "not uncommon", but I couldn't be sure about the reason why. I don't believe the PCV is supposed to let oil through, just vapour. But there's no reason why it wouldn't condense into oily deposits the other side, which can build up into actual oil over the months/years.

Quite possibly it's the cam timing sensor. Or it could be the engine timing sensor. Or even the gearbox output shaft speed sensor.. It's definitely some sort of speed sensor, just which one... Do you have a part number...??

Just the threads? On the front three? Sounds like the cam cover gasket is your most likely bet. Not much wonga, and not too hard to change. Just gotta get the whole inlet manifold off..

Blueprinting properly also involves e.g. buying 9 pistons, and using the 6 that fit the bore tolerances best. The same applies to all the other components - buy twice as many as you need, and choose the best ones. Hugely expensive process, and like Kev says it's less important these days as factory tolerances are tighter than they used to be.

Don't think the ECU uses the lambda when it's idling, so I'm not convinced that they're going to be related.

The description above of the short shifting and so on is consistent with getting the best from the torque plot shown in the previous thread - lots of grunt at 3k rpm, and tailing off heavily above 5k. I think the "timed run" and the torque plot, regardless of the speedo movement, are from another car (or the same car with a G60 engine). But that's just my opinion which is, of course, total fabrication and quite probably bullsh1t, so there you go.

YES!! You got it right, despite the fact that you didn't understand yourself! ;) :)

I was about to edit my post and add "unless you're driving a motorbike!! :)

Funny, we've been asking for a photo of the engine since this thread appeared way back when... And Scott: you CAN'T get 0-60 in 6.2 with 138bhp, unless it's a diesel!!

He means unequal.. Since the ports inside the head are different lengths for the two banks of cylinders, so although the manifold is unequal length it compensates for this difference inside the head...