dr_mat

Brake Mean Effective Pressure... The definition of BMEP is: the average (mean) pressure which, if imposed on the pistons evenly during each power stroke, would produce the measured (brake) power output. BMEP .. is simply a multiple of the torque per cubic inch of displacement. Hardly fair to compare NA and FI BMEPs, IMHO!

Sounds like the coilpack, if you've lost 2 cylinders. There's three coils, so two cylinders go at a time with it. And I don't think a coil pack fail will show up on VAG-COM, either. (The engine will just notice the extra fuel in the exhaust and try to run it leaner on the remaining cylinders, I don't think it'll be able to directly tell that there's a misfire (or no-fire) on some cylinders. Could be wrong, but...

It's hideous. Looks like something they'd consider cool on an Austin Allegro.

How very 1970s!!!

My bonnet only gets opened when there's something wrong with the car (*), so there's no way I'm wasting cash on tarting it up under there.. ;) And anyway, your engine bay looks pretty damn clean already!! *- which is worryingly regularly, so maybe I should consider it after all?! :)

I would say the best way to cool a turbo/supercharger is to use electric oil/water pumps and rad fans. No need to run the engine on (though in the case of a turbo, the moving air will help slightly I guess).

VRs and G60s both have knock sensors, so timing as decided at the factory should make best use of "good" fuel - i.e. RON 97+. The knock sensors are there to compensate for your use of nasty fuel, and will retard the ignition accordingly to keep the car right on the limit of optimimum performance for a given fuel. The MPG difference is less easy to prove, but the performance difference is easy to prove on a rolling road. If petrol stations are ripping people off, trading standards would jump on them like a ton of bricks... If they knew ...

As accurate as your measuring and maths skills dictate!!

Optimax is 95 ron with octane boost, which is highly volatile, so by the time it's sat in your tank for a week or two it's probably down to 95 ron. Ultimate is 97 ron, all day long, every day.. The figures quoted originally are interesting, but are completely statistically insignificant I'm afraid.. You'd really need to run some sort of controlled experiment to be confident that an observed 3% difference was anything other than random variance... As I'm sure you were aware. :)

Measure it yourself. Work out the diameter of the dizzy cap at the measuring point, then do some simple maths and bob's yer uncle.

The way "modern" traction control programs work is two fold - braking the spinning wheel (like the Corrado's EDL) *and* cutting engine power (misfiring it). The only really *good* way of doing a limited slip diff is to actually USE a limited slip diff, everything else is a waste of time, mostly. You *can* feel the EDL working though, I would say, but as pointed out the gearbox output shaft has to be turning at below 25mph road speed. You will feel/hear a vibration, but then, since you're spinning your wheels it's likely that there's too much other vibration to notice it properly.

As in judder? Or as in suspension bouncing? Or what?

You know they used to have demi-god-like status in the hifi cassette world..? Don't think they ever did an in-car cassette player though..

I was under the impression that people thought the Corrado was a bit heavy to be purely a track car. More of an all-rounder. You're lugging an extra few hundred kilos compared to a mk2 golf for example... Cheap track car though: perhaps a 205 1.9 GTi? Should be able to pick one of those up, probably with Mi16 conversion too - there's a few of those about.

Just whack the TVR speed 12 engine in. 940 bhp with no worries, and not a turbo or nitrous shot in sight. (ok, it's 7.7 litres tho... :) )

Set it to 6 degrees, then move it back a little bit.. From the diameter of the dizzy you should be able to calculate one degree of arc and measure it with a ruler... Unorthodox but no reason why it shouldn't work.

Does this mean we have to call you "Phat32" now?? ;)

Strut top mount, or bottom ball joint. Either way something's loose!

Yeah, they can. But more likely the ABS rotor is fubar, or not there, one of the two.

Then I wouldn't expect to see that error code coming back after it's been cleared...

Did you faff around with any of the ABS fuses or relays?

You can't transfer the money into your account - that's not how credit cards work. You *can* go out and buy things and not pay for them for 6 months, however. If you currently have a negative balance on a credit card that you were intending to pay off you can defer that debt for six months. If you can buy the car with a CC then you can take advantage of the interest free, otherwise you'll need to take out a loan..

Hehe, that's a pretty comprehensive list! First of all, did you clear the codes? If so, ignore the majority of them, work on the ones that come back after clearing them. Mechanical malfunctions mean that the electrical performance of the sensor is fine, but that it's getting a signal that indicates that the ABS cage is either damaged or not there. Good point about the rolling road tho - both my rear sensors showed up after a trip to Stealth, and I couldn't figure out why, so that might easily explain those two!

The standard space saver should have the same rolling radius as the other wheels, but then, since you're running 17s maybe that's part of the problem. I don't know how clever the ABS ECU is in these circumstances.

Sadly not, or at least, not last time I asked, anyway...