dr_mat

The fan has multiple speeds, there's a group of temp sensors to control each speed. There's a completely different circuit that drives the run-on after ignition switch off, tho it still depends on one or more of the temp sensors, afaik. Might be a fuse... Maybe some other folks have come across this before...

or greeny-red... or not at all, depending on the exact filtering qualities of the orange plastic and red tint you use...

TVR raided the VW parts bin for some of the bits of their cars. Dunno why they chose Corrado ones, they were probably just the closest type to the shape they were after. TVR owners should just be thankful that they didn't use the Corrado door handles too...

Spotted: j-reg, slightly tatty left handed G60 in met. blue.. IN MY STREET! Behind my VR6!! Last place I expected to see another C..

You mean they charge £204 for *that*?? Jeez.. Three main steering components: Steering rack: £390 UJ linkage: £204 Steering column: £537 That's basically another spare corrado's worth of steering components..

Yeah it'll fail an MOT if they spot it - it'll mess up the emission control parts of the engine. It's also quite dangerous cos the gases have a nasty habit of coming straight into the cabin and poisoning you!! Not a bonus! :(

"steering column coupling" - to what exactly does this refer? Do you mean the bit with the two universal joints that connects the steering column to the rack?

I got Lucas reman calipers on mine too, Mkiii version - about £55 each, even from VW. I suppose Stealth had enough brain cells to change the caliper guide pins at the same time, kev? Mine clunk about like b*ggery now, cos the guide pin is worn.. :(

Stick the V-meter on the crank position sensor - it should report fluctuating volts as the engine turns. If it doesn't, that's your culprit. If it does, it could still be out of range, I don't have figures for what is the correct range unfortunately. I suppose you can't plug VAGCOM in..? You really need to see what the ECU thinks is going on, IMHO.

... all sounds *hard*! :) I'm using a GARAGE!! ;)

You should have heard my old cavalier with 150k miles of thrashage on it.. That was the kinda car where you could really really tell when you put fresh oil in..

Damnit.

Plus bore wear and head/valve problems that can crop up at anything from 85k + miles... There's a lot of replacement engines out there.

I wasn't being sarcastic... My point is that it's just a car. It's old enough that it's value is totally defined by it's condition, NOT some notional book price. If it's in good condition, you can get more for it than a lower mileage car in bad condition. Ask Henny, he just spent thousands rebuilding a G60 that now has 250k on the clock.. And if the engine is at all suspect, the work you're thinking of doing on it will give you an effectively *new* engine, so you should expect plenty of trouble-free driving for years to come.

There's a big difference between something merely 'doing it's job' (which the OE mounts do until they snap) and something doing it's job well. The VT mounts form part of the whole performance package. You can really feel the front and rear ones holding that motor still, allowing the shift cables to do their job of changing gear, smoothly. And in closing, if VW stuff is so good, why did Major Ivan Hurst find over 50 critical design flaws in the Beetle? You can keep your OE mounts..... I've seen the light, the Vibra Light :lol: K You *know* I'm quite regularly to be found slagging off VW's build quality.. I'm under no illusions.. As for the VT mount, I'm still trying to decide. I'm more or less decided to do it, but it seems excessive if I'm not keeping the car for ever, sorta thing. I suppose if pushshove I can whip the schrick off and the VT and put the old ones back when I sell the car... .. and the length of time I keep the car depends on if Vince can figure out why the hell the steering and front suspension feels like it's about a million years old and done 10,000,000 miles on unsurfaced mud tracks.

I think the cars take the rev counter reading from the engine speed line out the ECU, afaik...

Further to my previous comment and the good info from duncanthemad, however, even if you found out the car had been clocked - what then? Does it really matter? You know yourself the condition it's in. It's a 16v isn't it? So maybe you discover it's been clocked and you find that the book price goes down by £500. So what? That's nothing compared to the money you pay to insure and run the car...

You answered your own question. Basically it's YOUR CAR now. If you don't like it, or have so many mechanical problems that it's costing a fortune, get rid by all means. But if it's going well, and you like driving it, the ONLY thing you have to be sure is that there's no outstanding finance, or a "written off" in it's history - as that might effect your insurance. So if in doubt, do an HPI check and see what the result is.

just like they changed the design of the wipers and uprated the headlight loom wiring??? The arguement that "VW designed it that way so it must be right" just doesn't wash - wipers and light loom being 2 cases in point. I agree - there's many things about the Corrado that suck because they didn't spend the time and money designing things that are sufficiently well engineered. But they still use the same design of engine mount for the current 12v VR6 engines (as far as I'm aware - correct me if I'm wrong), or more-or-less, so clearly this is a proven design that has remained unchanged for over 10 years. I've already done the Lupo wiper upgrade and am very happy with it!! (I'm not completely averse to the idea of upgrades and modifications.. :-) )

It's a feature, not a bug...?

I think the early and late cars have completely different exhaust hangers/brackets. Also the VR will have a complete one-piece exhaust going over the rear axle, which will be a pain in the butt to fit..

You can get 'em 2nd hand.. Just keep yer eyes peeled..

The system does a self-check of all the sensors and valves when you pull away and hit 7mph after an initial switch-on, so if there's a physical sensor problem, or a physical valve problem then the light will come on then. If the light comes on when you're moving, or slowing down, chances are it's the usual knackered electrical sensor problem. If it's a physical sensor problem, clean up the sensors etc etc, but if it's a physical valve problem it may be more complicated... :-\

I'd imagine he'll ship anywhere, as long as you'll pay for it... Dunno if you'll be able to get in on the group buy though. The order has now been shipped, so it'd have to be a second shipment.. You can always ask, tho. I'm surprised there's not better places to get these in the US though - even the bargain £1074 price on the group buy will work out at nearly $2000 given the current exchange rate..

Yeah, but the rest of the bonnet opening also slopes. I have to admit, I always thought that my sump gasket was pretty much horizontal. I could be wrong, it was not something I looked that closely at...