dr_mat

Did you sort your ABS out in the end, by the way?

I'd say that you probably just need *new* discs/pads if you're getting significant fade on motorway sliproads - I don't, and mine is running all-VW stuff. The only drawback with OE pads is the brake dust. The green stuff pads appeal to me a lot on that basis alone, tbh. One other thing to check, though, is the pads aren't overheating. If you've got binding calipers, they might be overheating causing them to fade much sooner than normal. Particularly if it only happens after motorway sprints.

It was extremely genuine, with all the VW stickers and even the VW logo embossed in the back box! Yep, centre and rear boxes. The only drawback is it's all one piece, so you need to cut+shut or drop the back axle to fit it. But given that it'll last for another 10 years, chances are you'll never have to touch it again..

What's wrong with genuine VW pads+discs? I'd be interested to know how much they are myself, actually.

£155 + VAT, I should point out... And that doesn't include the small silencer behind the CAT, but still a bargain IMHO.

Horses for courses. My personal list of "really easy" includes many things other people would never even consider trying, just like everyone else's includes things I'd likely never try (like removing gearboxes!). I'm not about to log into the forum and tell everyone that they too can do all the things I can do, just cos I think they're easy - I know it ain't that simple. Anyway, this thread has gone on long enough, we've both made our points. Removing gearboxes is "dead easy" if you have the tools and a mechanical bent. That means not me then.

Local place in Reading. I couldn't tell you where they got them from. I also couldn't recommend them at the moment!! :( I've discovered that a) they overinflated one of the tyres to 45 psi, b) they left the valve cap off, c) they didn't fully tighten the wheel bolts. Which is annoying, because they've always been quite professional before.. FYI: http://www.touchreading.com/comdir/cditem.cfm/22381 I had similar quotes from several local places, but Kwik Fit quoted like £112 a tyre or something ridiculous!!

Sure, the "max" is a guideline, and is well within the safety limits of the tyre, but bear in mind that simply *travelling* at 170 may be fine, but what happens when you come to put your foot on the brakes or go round a corner?! Yep, you guessed it, you just exceeded the design limits of the tyres... Just an example... :)

ZR is the "old" naming standard. This was meant to describe tyres suitable for "150mph +". There are now sub-bands V, W and Y ratings to indicate greater performance. Oh, and you can get Eagle F1s for less than £85 each. The last pair I bought cost me £132 the pair, fitted and balanced. As far as I know, the load carrying ability of the tyre is pretty much decided by the dimension - i.e. 205/50/15. The 86 figure is the maximum weight it can carry. I think 86 means 860 kilos. Take a look at the following for goodyear tyres, specifically, but it lists all the speed ratings: http://www.goodyear.co.uk/services/tyre ... ewCar.html

I'd have said that they should have noticed when they did the cast/camber setup. Also worth checking if you've any extraneous bits of mudflap sticking out!! That was a problem on mine till I ditched the nasty old rusty mudflaps.

IIRC the VR6 had about 5 different coil springs fitted to it during it's lifetime. The only way to tell which ones you've got is to look for the little paint spots on the coil itself. I couldn't tell you if they were different in terms of ride height or spring rate, but I know there are many distinct part numbers...

I would say that if your VR is running it's oil at anything over 120 degrees at a constant 80 mph on the motorway there is something wrong! Either your oil is rubbish, your oil pump is weak, your oil heat exchanger is knackered or your coolant system is knackered. Or you live in the Gobi Desert!! FYI mine sits at 112/114 degrees at 80 mph. If you spend significant time on the track with oil temps pushing 140 then you need an extra oil cooler. If not, save the cash and do 8 extra oil changes in the lifetime of the car with the money instead. This will probably provide more benefit anyway, IMHO. Erm, Happy Christmas everyone, by the way... :) And Mike, no worries, I'll get modifying! ;)

Sure you don't wanna sell me your VSR, Mike??

The pulley is, but the "sealed unit on the top left hand side" is the spring that holds the pulley against the belt. It's held on by three bolts, in a triangular arrangement.

VAG - Volkswagen Audi Group (Gruppe) dunno what the COM bit stands for *exactly*, but a wild guess suggests it's something to do with COMputer diags. All VR6s (and the rest of the later cars) had a 15 gallon tank, earlier cars had a 12 gallon. I suspect iandavidcassidy fills up before it's down to the smell of an oily rag, unlike the rest of us who squeeeeeze £55 worth in at the last possible minute. (A mate of mine actually managed to run out of fuel on a downhill stretch of the motorway and managed to coast all the way into the services, around the slip roads, and up to a petrol pump... Jammy git!)

I have the joy of doing 15 miles a day commute (in two halves, obviously), so I see around 24-26 mpg "normally".. Even less when it's *very* cold in the mornings. On a long run on the motorway, sure, I'll see 29-32mpg depending on my speed.. :D

Stealer will ask nearly £85 for that pump, IIRC... :shock:

What, all of it? ;) Which bits were replaced, and which bits were adjusted, for future reference..

http://veepers01.budlight.com/service/u ... ed_browser T*ssers. (Sorry mods, but that really gets my goat.)

Sounds like the belt tensioner pulley. They do go, cost about £75-80 from VW as mentioned above.. :(

A *bang*, or a scrape? Could even be the ball joints slopping about. Does the steering feel funny?

You can pick up new instrument clusters for not too much dosh on ebay or down the breakers yards. The MFA is in the cluster, so it's just a question of dealing with the fiddly job of fitting it and connecting all it's sensors and stuff. Of course, if you remove and re-fit your own, you might find it suddenly works! This kind of thing is often down to a duff connection somewhere.

GPC charge £32.50 + VAT + P+P, which works out at around £40. Which is still daylight robbery, for a SAFETY component!! But less than the stealer price.. Of course, if the damn thing was designed properly, and made using decent heavyweight materials it would last a bit longer than all the other stupid design "features" that we are all coming to know and love about Corrados.

Agreed - my VR rarely drops below an indicated 90 degrees on the open road. Maybe down to 85 when the first inrush of cool water comes from the rad, but that's it. If the 'stat opens at 80 my gauge is probably over-reading by about 10 degrees, or my stat is iffy. But 60 is too low, I'd say. Does sound like the stat is stuck open (which is better than being stuck closed!)

So are you sure it's reading low - have you actually done the maths to check whether it's right or not?