dr_mat

My feeling would be it's a hydraulic problem if the bite point is dropping to the floor, rather than the clutch wearing out. That would be shown with slipping when accelerating and you've got the clutch fully up. Does it get better if you "pump" the clutch pedal? Would be worth getting the slave cylinder bled.

Just to add to the advice already given, my VR6 came to me with a mixed bag of tyres, including a pair of Kwik-Fit specials. Damned AWFUL tyres. Get rid of them at the first opportunity - it makes a huge difference to the safety and handling of the car. You still won't, however, manage to get 180lb ft of torque down on the road in 1st or 2nd (particularly round even a slight corner) without some spin in the wet - it's just not gonna happen. In fact, even with excellent tyres it's not difficult to get slip in 3rd in the wet, so don't take that as indication of a problem. Why do you think even 4x4 cars (e.g. audi tt) have traction control and LSDs etc etc...?

Most Corrados require slightly more than that, I thought, due to their weight - particularly at the front. But it depends on the width of your tyres... I can tell you that pressures too low kills the precision of the steering... FYI a VR6 requires 36psi in the front wheels and 33psi in the rear...

Right from day one....!! :( Seriously though, if I had my time again I'd go for either a Many many things seem to die at about the 100k miles stage. Mine has been very expensive the last couple of years.. :(

Leather seats are cold in the winter I can tell you... Yeah they're heated, but that initial few minutes before the heating really kicks in is a killer....

I think it's the exhaust on mine, very irritating. Clunks each time you change direction really.

VAG-COM will tell you which component is screwed. This sounds more like a problem elsewhere. If you lost brake assistance, you lost vacuum - nothing to do with the ABS system whatsoever.

Note that replacing the cables is very rarely necessary - and they're VERY expensive from VW too, so don't think about it unless you're sure they need replacing. (Tho I doubt that will come as a surprise to you..)

You drive a corrado and you're complaining that windows rattle!?? ;) ;)

Take care out there chaps, we don't want any more Corrados written off on icy roads... ;) It's too cold now. 10 degrees was the best compromise - cold enough to make the engine run well without freezing the nackers off it! :? 2 degrees this morning, it's not nice to an engine doing that, really! :(

Anyone fancy a set of Audi TT wheels for their VR6? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... gory=28648 Not certain they'd fit (stud pattern suits VR6, but that offset thing always confuses me), but thought I'd mention it in case anyone was after a set. Look like they're in good nick and don't seem to be attracting much attention.. Cheers, Matt.

Get the MOT done... Then everyone knows where they stand. £39 for a basic safety check can't be argued with.

Sounds like an excellent idea. Bit of a job to keep up-to-date, but.. In fact, ETKA has a prices module - this could be integrated into the site possibly? Apart from the obvious legal considerations.... :-(

That's what reserve prices are for...

Anyone put the R32 engine in a C? Does it fit??

Personally I think I'd have booked it into a VW specialist for a look at by now..!! If it's vibrating that badly it's got to be affecting your ability to steer and stop your expensive lump of metal, and also your ability to keep you and yours from being embedded in the back of another lump of metal (or worse). And even if all this isn't true, then it's certainly effecting your enjoyment of your expensive lump of metal, and for me that's enough to get it fixed. If it was a Vauxhall and the steering vibrated, so what? It would handle crap anyway. But it's not, it's a very fine handling car when it's working, and it's very very noticeable when it's not working, so get it fixed!! :) I had been thinking my C was not "right" for a couple of weeks. Took it to get the tracking checked. Lo and behold, it was 0.25 degrees out!! If 0.25 degrees is noticeable then...

Yeah, that works pretty well, but it doesn't *quite* hide the orange plastic completely. It's an improvement over the normal look, and it does mean you're unlikely to wind up in trouble with the police tho.. :) Lets face it you could do the same thing with tinted lights, you just have to carefully dilute and remove thin strips of paint with thinners. Much trickier after the event tho.. :-\

It's not so much the darkness that's a problem, it's the redness. If you're going for a black tint, you probably won't have any problems, all you'll have to do is get a brighter bulb maybe. But red tint causes problems. I've got red tints on mine, and I'm fully expecting to get pulled at some point and told that I need to change them, and I'll not even be trying it at the MOT - I'll swap the original lights straight back onto the car. I thought about getting a bright LED-based bulb for my indicators too, but I've not tried it yet. I suspect they'll still look a bit too red for comfort.. :(

There's a lot of cars that have "all red" lenses these days, but if you look at them they flash very clearly amber, because they were designed that way.. Sprayed C lights don't flash "clearly amber", so it's a bit more dodgy ground.. YMMV. :)

"not amber" is an MOT fail. Tinted black is fine, as long as the lights are still "amber". Even if they're dimmer than usual. Tinted red is more tricky... Mood on the day...

You don't. At the moment. But it's the only way to deal with this situation - it's one of those things that's come out of the military. If someone's being tortured, they have to be able to give up some information that sounds plausible, or can be easily verified, without actually giving up the real deal. So the best security model is simple: you need two authentication keys: one is something you carry with you, and the second is something you know. A password, or pass code for example. Then you have to deal with the situation where someone tries to force you to reveal your passcode - so you have to have a fore-mentioned duress code. This code should work, because otherwise the agressor is just going to come straight back to you and attack you again until you tell them the real code. Hence the concept above... I think some alarm systems have the concept of a duress code, but no-one has come up with a duress KEY yet.

Does that mean I should watch out when I corner on two wheels then??? ;)

These part numbers seem to have changed on an almost weekly basis.. Is there any hope of getting a definitive "these are the part numbers" statement?!! :shock: VW should make their minds up!! :(

Could well be a vacuum problem then. Do the revs drop? I'm far from an expert on the foibles of auto gearboxes...

I'm trying to do it the other way around.. Buy early spec (read cheap) fog lamps or glass and fit it to a late-spec surround. Should just need to get some silicone sealant to keep the glass in place in the surround - but the trick is sourcing the glass. Anyone?