dr_mat

I would have thought the only HID kits that are road legal come with appropriate lenses built-in. It'll fail the MOT otherwise..! Though the original poster was asking about Xenon lamps, which are generally just the standard 12v filament bulbs using Xenon gas so they can burn hotter and therefore brighter, without burning out. These are completely road legal, and in my experience the rule is simple: stick to the brand names (Philips, Osram) and get the brightest ones you can afford. They are noticeably brighter than the old ones. Given how frequently headlamp bulbs blow (not that often), and how expensive even standard ones are, I wouldn't say "it's worthwhile" to buy xenon ones, I'd say "why the hell haven't you already got some?"!! :)

And when Hydrogen starts to get difficult to produce? Diversity is what we need, not a new single source.. Admittedly there's a butt load of hydrogen in the universe, but it's not always in a convenient form..

Wow, they are getting desperate for votes..

To be fair, it's a FWD car, you don't make much headway on 0-60 times by increasing engine output because there's barely enough grip to put the standard car's 180 lbft down in first and second gears as it is. But maybe someone will come along and randomly wander into a thread about insurance groups who happens to have a 300 bhp rotrex charged VR6 that's otherwise standard and have timed it so he can answer your question.. :)

It would spin its front wheels for about thirty seconds before going off like a scalded rabbit. 0-60 time: 36 secs. ;)

Actually I've only ever seen insurance group 19 quoted for VR6 Storm, and then only by a subset of insurers. The standard VR6 is generally quoted at group 18, which is just at the top of the range the normal insurers will touch (FWIW the G60 is grp 17). You shouldn't have difficulty getting a quote on a fairly unmodified car from even the big names who advertise on TV. It's still a high grouping, considering the performance, but you have to remember it's got very little to do with performance and a whole lot more to do with "likeliness of being nicked", and back in the day the Corrado VR6 was the Imprezza Turbo of cars for being stolen. Except its built in security systems were rubbish (until the CP immobilised engines, at least).

Right, so are you ignoring the VAT element then? :) Yes, because normally it has no impact on inflation.. Though you're right the move to 20% VAT clearly bumps the fuel prices further and drives inflation.

Hmm, is it not going up in April (again)?! Yep, but that has no impact on inflation NOW, obviously..! :)

Well you can tell the difference very very quickly. Either use VAGCOM and read off the error codes or check the measuring blocks, OR open the bonnet and listen .. in my case there was an obvious noise of arcing around the coil pack area ...

Erm, it's nothing to do with fuel duty, per se, it's the price of fuel going up that's causing inflation .. The duty hasn't changed, it's the same % of the fuel price as it was last year.

Well I swapped the coil pack on mine this weekend, same symptoms, and it ran just fine, totally back to normal. There's a hairline crack up the side of the old coil pack.

Have to say I don't agree with the fuel stabiliser idea, I think it's the taxpayer subsidising the rich (again). The tax escalator has to stop though. Tax on fuel should either be a fixed amount per litre or VAT should be used.

Same here. And I've seen two or three other posts about the same thing recently. It seems there's a serious humidity + cold blip that's toasted the coil packs out there. Open the bonnet and listen - you'll probably hear the HT arcing around the coil pack. Even at idle you'll probably find it runs a bit rough for a while.

I think someone did make a Speedline replica in 16" instead of the standard 15" of the 1.9 GTi. Perhaps yours had these on. [/quote:298kcpqy] Even so, I think it's unlikely someone would have modified the whole suspension geometry to limit the turning circle just because they changed the wheels.

A rather more practical choice, and surprisingly adept on the road too. Ain't the same though. The 205 1.9 GTi had a hairy chest and a moustache. The 206 GTi has a smart cardigan.

They looked like the standard 1.9 pepperpots to me, but maybe they were "enhanced" ...?

I doubt it. The 11% less fuel is just as likely caused by people being so pissed off with traffic that they moved nearer to work, or work nearer to home, or bike it, or just walk. I think most of the threads on this forum clearly show that the price of petrol has almost no effect on how far people drive and when they drive.

I would say that VW would happily charge you £145 plus VAT for a rear ABS sensor for a VW Corrado, so there's your £180 right there. Plus it's a question of labour. I don't know what their labour rates are like but I doubt it's less than £75 an hour (again plus VAT). Count an hour to refit a fiddly sensor and ..

Also note that it will be pro-rated to your % of full-time that you were working, so if she's worked 50% for three years it's 50% of three weeks' wages, and actually there's not even any obligation to pay your wages out at your normal salary, iirc there's a defined "salary" that the employer can use, they don't have to use your real one ..

I drove a non-power assisted 1.9 GTi once. Lots of fun, very very much like driving a go-kart, essentially. From a practical stand-point it was rubbish though. Noisy, small, bumpy as hell, those big wheels in those little arches meant the steering turn angle was very restricted - getting into a lot of parking spaces was a three point turn and brought out many a red face from over extertion ..

It's not unheard of for rebuilt engines to blow gaskets - no matter how professional the shop that does it, the blocks and heads are ~10 years old and rebuilt engines are usually rebuilt for a reason .. So I would chase the coolant system problem first, then figure out if you still have a misfire afterwards. Unless it's an obvious one like plugs/leads/CP I suppose..

Excessive pressure in the coolant system means there's an airlock somewhere. I doubt it's related to the misfire, however, unless the head gasket has gone and you're getting cylinder gases bleed into the coolant system. Any garage should be able to check that though.

Depends on variant. If it's a 12v 2.8 VR6 it's a straight swap, but if it's the 24v I think there's more work required (and no loss of power!).

Erm, lol...

It can be caused by just excessive gak on the surface of the coil pack too. It will arc through a slightly-conductive coating, particularly when it's wet. Mine has been arcing the last couple of times I've started it too (original CP, 140,000 miles old!), works fine once the engine heat dries everything out of course.