dr_mat

So you have to ask one more question here. Did you, or the shipper, ask/promise to use a signed-for delivery service? That would be rather expensive from Germany. If no-one paid for signed-for then dropping it on your driveway is within the terms of their agreement.. However, if the packaging is not good enough then the seller has a duty to make it right, though it's up to them to claim any damage from the courier firm (I hope you took lots of photos of the boxes with the wheels still in them, as they were dumped on your driveway).

Actually the GB price is for "up to ten", so we're already there! The extra discount for 11-16 would be nice though .. :)

Given that you have 17" wheels, you'll need the extra power from the 263s to make up the performance to standard, so I'd say "yes".. ;)

If you have a late VR6, at least it has the factory key-based immobiliser so you don't have to worry about it being started without them getting hold of your keys. But otherwise stickers, steering wheel locks, etc, are really the only way to deter passing idiots. Or, in my case, don't wash it for four years... :)

The ABS control unit DOES report errors if the voltage drops too low at any time - but it also gets reset when you start the engine, and by the time the engine is running the alternator should be making up the voltage and you shouldn't continue to see issues. I say shouldn't ..

Yeah, I'm tempted to leave it on and keep that fat torque spread (should be in the region of 180+ lbft all the way from 3000 to 6200 rpm with the cams bolstering the top end). The simplicity of having only the cams fitted appeals to me though ..

You mean you don't use a VPN tunnel? :) They're dicks, they always have been. It's always entertaining seeing people be dicks, until they're dickish about something you care about.

Vince didn't say. He did comment that in his experience adding 263 cams to a VSR doesn't liberate as much additional torque in the midrange as adding 263s to the unmodified engine does (if you see what I mean). That doesn't mean it's not worth keeping the VSR .. am thinking on it ..

FWIW I just placed my deposit, I'm #5 .. come on chaps, get yer wallets out ..

Wow, anti-top gear sentiment on a car forum? :)

That's bloody good, I wouldn't complain about that ..

Well a competent garage can check the condition of your battery. If it's bad, replace it... Batteries are incredibly simple. They either output 12v and hold charge .. or they don't. A failing battery may just about manage to output 12v but won't sustain it under load. A garage will have a load tester. In fact a fully charged healthy battery will output 12.6V. Find a competent garage and ask them to rule it out .. Also, look for corrosion on the ABS control unit's connector block (it's at the side of the passenger footwell behind a plastic panel). That might be the cause of your voltage errors. (That might also be caused if you disconnect the battery for a *short* while, short enough that the stored error codes aren't wiped.)

I suspect it's more likely you had an ABS failure a long time ago that chucked an error code. When you swapped the battery the error codes got lost, so it thinks all is well now. Coincidence.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about that myself. Stick to the bearings/UJ.

Doh. Mountain bike is a stupid reason to NOT buy a performance enhancement for your 'Rado .. ;)

So what's the big difference with those? Lumpier idle, less torque, more top end?

I assume these 268s are also Schimmel cams .. otherwise I can't see how they can be included in the GB .. !

I think most Corrados will flatten a battery if left unattended for a month. Mine certainly does, and I've seen too many stories on here to think it's unusual. The only real solution is to keep the battery topped up however you can. (Going flat regularly will KILL lead acid car batteries in very short order, you should keep it charged up fully at all times if you can.) ---------- Post added at 7:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 7:49 AM ---------- A multimeter with a 10A scale can't read 14A (it would actually cook it!), so you're probably looking at 0.143 A, or maybe 1.43Amp. 0.1 Amps will flatten a 64Ah battery in 640 hours, 1.43A in 44 hours, though the car will probably not be able to start after about 30 hours or so. If it was really pulling 14A for a start something somewhere would get very hot and the battery would be flat in four hours ...

I have to have a chat with Vince ...

Yes absolutely - if you widen the arches your wheels won't stick out as much .. !

Re: sticking out and safety.. well,it's just one of those things. They have to set a sensible limit somewhere and they set it at 30mm (as someone pointed out, this is likely less than your wing mirror sticks out). *Any* protrusion on the bodywork will fail an MOT if it's "sharp". The bodywork is, of course, tested as an impact target for pedestrians, wheels are not. I have no idea why they allow quad bikes to be registered for road use. The things are ****ing insane and shouldn't be allowed on the roads .. particularly as most of the people who drive them are dickheads..

Of course it's a safety issue. It's MUCH more dangerous for wheels to catch each other, or to catch passing pedestrians, than for bodywork to touch. That's exactly why the regulations are all about how far the wheel protrudes from the "plane of the car body". As stated above, interpreting what the plane of the car body is near your wheel arch is often open to interpretation. I'm also one of those that doesn't like this look, however..

Well you know, just keep your eyes open when you go into it. If you're the kind of person who works on cars, go for it. I doubt you'd be asking the question if you were, however, so maybe leave it for those that do. On the other hand, the descriptuion says it just needs a clutch to be driveable. That's a lot of performance for almost no money...

Though this is a bit off-topic really, I'd agree that the sort of stuff shown in the wikipedia link is incredibly common, but in my view that's as much to do with normal lens flare or "blooming" as it shows CA, and flare isn't going to go away when you're trying to over-expose a dark foreground against a massively bright background. Chromatic aberation is normally considered to be a coloured fringe around a black/white transition (this photo *could* be an example of this, but you'd need a little more context), and occurs radially from the centre of the image outwards, being at its worst at the image edges. Very few lenses can optically correct for CA at all zoom/aperture/focus settings (prime lenses included), though high quality lens coatings can reduce the impact of blooming and flare. You can't easily fix the latter electronically, but true CA can be entirely 100% corrected for all lenses, and most compacts (and current gen SLRs) do correct for that. At least with an SLR, or a camera with some manual controls, you can take over and operate the lenses in their best performing aperture ranges at all times. For compact cameras there is often only one real aperture setting, so you don't have such luxury and have to assume the lens designer optimised it for that one setting. Take a look at the following for another view on this: http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Optical/chromatic_aberration_01.htm ---------- Post added at 10:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ---------- To clarify, what I mean is that the wikipedia example above is a pathological case that almost all lenses fall over on, including almost all professional SLR lenses. Where possible professional photographers attempt to avoid such scenes, they rarely work out looking good anyway.

I've got two non-working 6659s .. :-( I've been idly watching for a suitable CD-based system that's going to not look way out of place in the car for some time. Green LEDs are so far out of fashion these days ...