paddy26

Can you post a pic of what you are calling the immobiliser box?

I just checked mine and there is only 1 black wire. (2 brown, 2 grey).

The ecu is under the scuttle tray, not behind the dash. The issue with the clocks resetting every time you remove the key would suggest that you are using the ignition switch power to power a constant 12v circuit.

In the other thread I missed the part where the car starts and cuts out.

If the car starts and dies after 1 sec it's usually an immobiliser issue.

The immobiliser box is near the headlight switch and has 2 looms connected to it.

When you turn on the ignition do you have 12v at pin 1(black wire)?

\Paddy

If the tie rod joint is ok could you not just put two cuts in the seized lock nuts to split them from the tie rod?

You could run a die on the threads if they're a bit rusty to ensure the new lock nuts and TRE go on ok.

It would be much easier and cheaper than replacing the tie rod and inner boot.

\Paddy

G1/3 is a red/yellow wire for the fuel pump relay power. That should be connected to the ecu(possibly pin12), but because you had the alarm installed that wire may have been "broken" by the alarm. What colour wire is pin12 on your ecu connector?

g1/4 (black) also connects to the ecu.

\Paddy

There is a grommet on the bootlid that is the correct size. It covers one of the bolts for the tail lights.

\Paddy

My wiring diagrams aren't much help.

Pin T28/26 on the clocks is the mpg wire.

This doesn't go to the fusebox. It goes to an individual connector behind the fusebox and probably to the ecu from there.

The wiring diagram says the wire is white but I wouldn't trust that.

I would use a multimeter from pin26 on the clocks and check against every pin on the ecu.

If you don't get a hit then the problem is between those 2 points.

If you do get a hit then problem is a sensor feeding the ecu or the ecu itself.

\Paddy

There is no vacuum pipe.

MPG is calculated by the ECU.

if i think of it this evening i'll get you the pin numbers you need to check.

\Paddy

Mine arrived today aswell. It was like trying to open that clamshell packaging. I had to get the scissors to open it.

Thanks again for organising this.

\Paddy

i'd be interested in knowning how much the helper springs cost.

when i bought my v3's the helper springs were for a vr6 and i think they might have been making the the ride very harsh.

i inquired with the company i bought them from about getting the correct springs for a 16v but i got nowhere.

\Paddy

For AUQ:

pin1 black/white -> +12 run power (10A fuse)

pin2 white/blue -> pin 28 on clocks

pin3 -> earth.

G28(engine speed sender on engine) supplies the ecu.

\Paddy

That's for the speed sensor on the gearbox.

You don't need it if you keep the corrado clocks.

\Paddy

Dude VR6, thanks for getting in touch. I've send you a PM.

I'll take it Ian if Mike doesn't want it.

\Paddy

Post up the wire colours and I'll tell you. Is there any other connectors on that section of loom?

\Paddy

thanks lads.

the guy machining the ring for me already has a standard piece of titanium that we could use.

I'll have a look at that motorsport mag this evening.

I have located a part from a Jordan F1 car, but i see that as a last last last resort, as they are mainly associated with Honda.

the search continues...........

\Paddy

Bumping this up again, as i came to another dead end.

Does anyone have contacts in an Audi racing team?

\Paddy

Payment sent.

thanks again Si.

\Paddy

Zyndol, the 1st pic is for a coolant temp sensor. You prob already have a 4-pin sensor wired in. The 4-pin sensor is on the passenger-side end of the head. I can't view the 2nd pic so not sure what that is.

\Paddy

Anyone got a link to them on classic parts? I need one of these aswell.

\Paddy

Are you talking about the 3 bolts that hold the ball joint to the wishbone? If so, it is 25mm long. M8 thread. 13mm head.

The bolt that holds the ball joint to the hub is 50mm long, M10 thread and 16mm head.

You get them all from the dealers for cheap.

\Paddy

My tapa talk stopped working with the forum so I deleted it and just use Internet browser now.

Same. I reinstalled it again straight away and it worked fine.

I have had to do this twice now. It's an inconvenience but not a big issue.

\Paddy

Thanks for the link.

I would never wear the band if I knew it was made from a part from a Jap car!

Some of my friends are big Jap fans and would never let me live it down.

I actually contacted Ledon racing already and they were very helpful but hadn't anything suitable.

\Paddy

The age of the part doesn't really matter to me. It doesn't need to be from a current race car. The wheel nut I bought was from a 2001, but that wasn't titanium.

I'll phone the local hospital during the week, but from what I've been reading titanium is one of the most common metals for male wedding bands these days and the hospitals have the equipment for cutting then off if needed.

I got 3 new contacts yesterday and the 2 that replied have nothing suitable. :(

\Paddy

Thanks lads for the help so far.

I've contacted a few teams but have heard nothing back yet.

Stone, walking the pit lane would be a good idea but travel costs from Ireland would make the part very expensive.

Any one else with any ideas/contacts?

Anyone know if push rod ends from a Le Mans car are titanium?

Link:

http://racetothefinish.co.uk/rttf.aspx?section=stock&category=Mechanical&id=9

\Paddy