flyferrari

Hi Zak, I know you said it'll cost £20 more for OEM plugs. Just to confirm that would be two OEM plugs onto the back of the headlight units and one OEM plug into the car's wiring loom. Is that correct? If it really ends up looking that tidy I might be interested despite the price hike. I know everybody else doesn't think it's worth it but I like OEM, tidy and, presumably, more water-tight. ATB, Kevin

Hi Dave, Can I take one of the full kits (inc drill/tap)? Please PM me payment details. All the best, Kevin

I've bought/fitted a neuspeed shifter......probably from the same place you got your price (MJM). They are a good place to deal with. I fly to the USA a lot so had it delivered to my hotel and brought it back with me. Just under the £145 taxable amount too! I would offer to help with importing one but I have a set of wheels to bring back as well as a speaker kit so thats my USA trips covered for the next few months. Anyway, the shift kit quality is excellent. The result is a bit notchy with the standard gearknob but feels great with a heavier aluminium one. I've got a Trimsport gearknob on mine. Be aware the fitting of this kit requires the dropping of the exhaust and will be pricey if getting it done by professionals. I was having the exhaust changed anyway so this didn't matter. Any other questions I can help with just ask. Regards Kevin

Like Mike said....me too! Kevin

So, given the "anything for a quiet life" intentions, you guys would still go for a 7.5" wide wheel rather that a 7" wide wheel? I know it would be more grief purchasing the 7" special but if you think that would give me a better guarantee of keeping out of trouble in day to day use then I'm more than happy to do that. Keep the opinions coming. Regards Kevin

Hi Guys, I'm hoping you can offer some advice on this. I fancy upgrading from my current BBS Solitudes to a set of 16" SSR Type-Cs as pictured below. IMHO they will look great on a black car and, at 5KG per 16" rim, they should save me 1 or 2 KG of unsprung mass per corner! They should be big enough to improve the looks, grip and turn-in without wrecking the ride or panicing me every time I see a pothole (of which there are hundreds round here!). I seem to have two choices. I can get a set of 7.5Jx16 in a 5x100 PCD and et35 offset off the shelf. I have been led to believe that I could special order a set of 7Jx16 with the same PCD and any offset between et32 and et48 (the two standard offsets for that size rim). I am planning on using standard 205/45/16 rubber and my C is lowered between 30-40mm all round. I can't see why I would want to go any wider on the tyres or lower on the suspension so these two things are likely to remain constant. So what do you think? Off the shelf or special order? If I go down the special order route what offset should I order? Would the standard VR et43 be the best? I have NO interest in getting involved with rolling arches or worrying about rubbing of the wheels/tyres on bodywork or struts. All informed opinion is greatfully received. Cheers in advance Kevin

Hi Andy, Are you still taking orders for the Plug'n'Play, top of the range loom upgrade? Regards Kevin

My understanding is that the captive nut is a blind nut, i.e. has a solid portion above the threaded bit. The doc I posted implies drilling through the solid bit and then tapping it and then fitting a longer bolt (VW part) to secure the subframe. This is what has been done to my car...I hope. If this info is not helpfull then accept my appologies for wasting your time but from your description of the problem this proceedure should help. It beats the hell out of taking an angle grinder to the cabin floor after removing all fuel lines etc. and then welding in a new pair of captive nuts. I would be surprised if you'd get change out of £500 for that! Regards Kevin

Hi Guys, I'm going through this mess at the moment. Before you do anything drastic check out the "official" way of dealing with a stripped thread in one of the captive nuts. As you can see it even includes part numbers for the replacement bolts. Regards Kevin P.s. hope I'm not too late

I take your point about the captive nut being an "act of nature" but that would apply the first time they removed the subframe. The first time they removed the engine it all went back together fine so the any element of siezed bolt syndrome had been dealt with. To take the engine out that way is questionable anyway but to do it twice is asking for it. The nut became free during the second removal and frankly that screams cross thread carelessness to me. Hell, there's even a VW approved procedure for how to deal with a cross threaded nut. I will be fighting any charges that head my way vigorously upto and including the likes of watchdog. I imagine VW would love to see their parts reliablilty questioned so publicly. Regards Kevin

Hi Guys, It hasn't been to Stealth but, to be honest, if I had a choice about who was going to do the work it would be at C & R already. Unfortunately they would charge for their labour(outragous!!!!) and VW will not. Mind you at the rate they are screwing other things up then there may be a break even point soon. The water pump was new just before the latest two engine were fitted. Whilst we're at it the engine was new, the rad was brand new, the hoses are new, the heater matrix and heater box are new (you should see the price of those from the stealers!!), the ignition leads are new, the thermostat/housing are new. You see the problem. VW are taking the head off this latest engine to see if they can see what is going on. I shall wait with baited breath....not!!! Regards Kevin

Hi Guys, New engines are going in each time, fully built up by VW in Germany. Only the ancilliaries (alternator, starter motor etc.) are being swaped over. The subframe problem is this. The rear, off-side mounting captive nut has broken free and is spinning. I now know that this involves removal of the interior carpet, cutting a hole in the floor and welding in a new captive nut. This is BIG money and VW are saying I will have to pay for this myself. B******ks to that. I will get the engine side of things done and then I'll be getting the beast up to C and R in Nottinham for a proper repair. I don't want a YTS body shop bloke anywere near my interior.....I need a company that has done this work before, not a learn-on-the-job outfit! I'm hopping mad now and I'm frankly surprised I haven't yelled at anyone yet. I can see lawyers getting involved with this. Thanks for the info chaps. Regards Kevin

Sorry, should have said. Its a VR and they are replacing the WHOLE engine each time. Just ancilliarys are swapped over. They say the block/head is porous but I'm not convinced they know what is really wrong. Kevin

As those that saw my last engine related post will note that I bought my car with a 4000mile/16 month old engine in it that had been fitted by VW using all genuine parts, including the lump itself. It went porous and blew the head gasket just after I got it. New engine fitted by my local dealer under warranty last week. That lasted 15 miles.....yes 15!!!!!...before the gasket went on that. Today they fitted ANOTHER new engine. That didn't even make it out of the workshop before the gasket blew. What the f**k is going on. Just to add insult to injury, the rear-most subframe captive nut has stripped/broken free and they are saying I will have to pay for this to be fixed. Is this even reasonable? Apparently they will have to cut into the chassis leg to remedy! Does anyone know what is really involved to fix this properly? Thanks in advance for any help/advice. Regards Kevin

Silly question but could the reason the rake adjust doesn't work be a broken wire/switch etc that intermittently shorts to ground taking the fuse out at the same time? I would be looking between the power-in point on the rake switch and the power-in to the motor. If it is possible could you unplug the wires from the rake adjust switch and insulate with electrical tape. See if the fuse continues to blow. Hope this helps. Regards Kevin