Fanjita

I fitted that head myself to BPN before I sold the car to Graeme, it was skimmed and polished at the time. That was only a few years ago I'm just surprised you've done it again?

Bill sorry to intrude but I couldn't help but notice Graeme mentioning the head? Was this from the 12v on the green one (ending BPN) before he converted it to the 24v engine?

Don't think mine's that low so can't really offer advice. Nice colour though mate :D

Hi mate, I think a good start would be to see how low your car actually is? Any pics?

Cheers, I'm pretty sure the engine and car is of the late variety, not sure on the condition of the coilpack but I'd assume that the engine would be rough at idle if there was a problem with that? I feel like I've almost checked everything then, just haven't tested the MAF :scratch:

Just checked the timing, appears to be fine. Piston 1 at TDC and the camshaft slots line up.

Also need help with how to test MAF, anyone got any advice? :shrug:

Ok I will give that a look, thanks! Would you mind explaining to a novice just basic steps to checking the timing? I've replaced a head in the past so I know what you mean about removing the aforementioned parts, and I also have a camshaft locking tool.

AFAIK Stealth did the whole engine about 5 years ago, and it's done roughly 35k since. It has quite an unhealthy tappety noise at 2000 rpm which I haven't yet addressed but I'm really confused as to what would cause it on such a supposedly good nick engine.

Update: Compression test results:- 1: 170 psi 2: 178 psi 3: 172 psi 4: 178 psi 5: 168 psi 6: 173 psi Looks to be a healthy spread... Cylinders 2 and 4 appear to be quite lean, the spark plugs not as bronzed as the rest. Could this be the injectors? What's the cheapest way of getting a decent set to replace them with? These ones do look quite well used, probably the age of the engine, we were thinking of cleaning them in our ultrasound bath?

Hi all, I've had this problem a while and it's been bugging me, the VR6 just doesn't seem to pick up the way I'm led to believe it should. At low RPM the torque is noticeable, but at higher RPM it feels like there's almost a flat spot, certainly does't feel like a friend's standard VR6 that I've been in and driven! After doing numerous searches, here's what I've done so far: VAG-COM - now have my own copy, apart from the engine speed sensor fault which goes when the engine is running, no faults. I have also checked all the sensor readouts and importantly the o2 (lambda) is working fine as is the throttle position sensor. Vac hoses - I have checked all of the vacuum hoses around the throttle body, and all are holding pressure. I did have a large hole in a hose joined between the inlet mani (just in front of TB), PCV valve and solenoid valve for the carbon canister. Fixed this yesterday and have felt no improvement. The sound supressor can by the ISV is also fine and holding pressure. All temperatures are fine, and they all match up. I did notice a slight discrepancy on VAG-COM between instrument displayed water temp and the ECU's temp reading, they both rose as expected but were 10 degrees apart. This shouldn't be a problem should it? As far as I understand, the MAF does not produce errors within the diagnostic system if faulty. This is one of my next checks, although after many searches it still doesn't seem fully clear how I go about testing the MAF. I should have enough electrical testing equipment for this so would someone be able to tell me exactly how to check it and what values I am looking for? I will be doing a compression test today but I don't think I have anything wrong there as the engine is a stealth rebuilt one with around 35k on it since the work. Failing that can anyone suggest any other port of call to check with this engine? I have a few more symptoms that may help: Very occasional cut out with dipped clutch. Athough decat, may be running slightly rich - MPG does not appear too bad however. I noticed that when disconnecting the MAF with a running engine, it spluttered and died, signs of anything? Now it may be that I am being paranoid with this problem and the engine turns out fine. I do have a valid reason to feel that there's a lack of power, not just from what I feel when driving. I have had a couple of occasions where I give it beans to try and get ahead of someone clearly not content with letting me past (only rare occasions though!). It just doesn't have the edge and has lost out to a new type MR2 ( :gag: ) and a Mk3 VR6 to name a few!

That stuff looks too good to be true! The before and after pics look like they've been re-upholstered :confused4:

I'd just like to add as mentioned on the receipt for the work it specifies these are 312mm brakes, which is where the confusion stems.

Despite bleeding my brakes twice, I noticed after a near complete overhaul of the brake system (fitted new seals on std rear calipers, discs and pads, and a 288mm kit for the fronts with new discs and pads) that the brakes were spongy. Decided to run it and bleed it after everything had bedded in, and after a matter of days, the brakes stiffened up. I really have noticed an improvement now, simply by using it and waiting to see what would happen. Might work for you?

Thanks mate, I've been off for the 2 weeks though so I could work at it solidly :D The ramps are from http://www.cjautos.org.uk/ Great bit of kit but they don't come cheap unfortunately, we collectively bought them as all the members of my family here can use them :grin:

All done :clap: That was a lot of work! Over the last 2 weeks I have fitted: Wishbones Ball joints New brake pipe 288mm Brakes (calipers, new discs and new pads) Stripped and rebuilt rear calipers New rear discs, bearings, pads Not to mention a lot of wire brushing, sanding and painting to kill rust Some pics:

Yeah it's been really good weather for it, so frustrating that mine has been undrivable for around 2 weeks now though :brickwall: Will be worth it when it's done though hopefully :clap:

I got a few o rings I didn't use for the rears, probably for the handbrake mechanism at the back of the caliper?

I got some recently from Biggred for the rears and it was a good little kit, included all the seals and rubbers to give the calipers a good refurb :clap:

I've had a little go with the mole grips but I think you're right, I'll just wait for a while until I can go get these proper pipe spanners. I haven't wrecked the head (I think!) just yet with the grips...

Yeah I hear this stuff is pretty flammable, there are stories of the brake hose going pop under the pressure (from the heat) too though. I might undo the bleed nipple and put a hose over it just to let any fluid out as it expands from the heat, maybe then i can get some decent heat on it? :shrug:

It's just one of those things, I know it may be inevitable, but my car's been on ramps for at least a week and a half now, I just want it finished! If i can just get this bugger undone then I will get it done a lot quicker, especially as I can only drive the corrado at the moment. Apart from begging a lift off someone to get the special tool or brake pipes, im a bit stuck :(

Well I started applying liberal doses of plusgas from yesterday in the hopes that it will help, but so far that 11mm spanner isn't shifting, I know they're not great for it. Might try and get hold of one of these slotted (almost ring type) spanners specially for the job, would definitely reduce the chances of rounding it. I read that someone chopped the rubber hose (like mine it wasn't needed) and just used a socket on the 14mm hose end while holding the brake pipe joint? Might be worth a punt

Hi all, Just trying to swap hoses over to fit the new front 288mms, as you probably know an open ended spanner won't cut it, I've just had a go and stopped through fear of rounding it completely. So what's the best way to get the two apart? I don't need the old hoses so I could cut them up? As a last resort I would have to get the brake pipes replaced but I really don't want to do that. Hopefully you guys know the best approach :salute: (ps I'm very post happy on the forums at the moment!)

Oh rite, there seems to be a lot of these plates around, just how I bought it....Unless it travelled up to Stoke from Norwich.. It's possible about the EC DC meet, I remember when they were at the range. It's now in Kings Lynn area though, not so good.