Fanjita

I believe the BDB was the same year range as my VW BUB engine. I also am under the impression the BDB was pretty much identical to the BUB which was seen in the MKV Golf. Things to bear in mind based on my experience are: - Make sure you have an ECU, they're a pig to get the right one for. - Same goes for loom, I had to search for 3 months before a suitable engine loom came up. - Ancillaries and cable guides around the engine are important to try and get too (especially the vacuum lines for the intake flap solenoid) - You'll need to use a floor mounted pedal HTH

Hi James. Do you have a late vr passenger wing by any chance? Need it with no structural rust. Cheers, James

I guess you're right. Not from a personal point but was thinking of resale value and being original. Although 24v rados do fetch good money! I'll hack it up then, but I'll be wincing when I do and maybe with a tear running down my cheek...

Depends on the Ecu/engine combination. On mine the revs are delivered via the canbus (digital information carrying system). So I had to use a can converter to transform this into an analogue signal my clocks can use.

Yeah I have a mk5 engine with a single fuel rail too mate. Had to mount a regulator to the side of the engine as a temporary measure. Will get a filter and have a go at modifying it then! Bit reluctant to chop the blue pipe if I ever want to go back though...

Chris, maybe you could advise me on this. How easy was the swap for you to that fuel filter/regulator setup? I'm still running standard fuel filter to an aftermarket regulator up front.

It's just behind the drivers headlight mounted vertically. Could be hidden under your air filter. There's a hole in the inner wing floor where it sits.

That's your evap solenoid. Recirculates the fumes from your fuel tank via the carbon canister and into your intake. The pipe normally connects to the side of the throttle body iirc.

Chaps, would it help if I made a video of the normal behaviour when going for an engine start? Just to help the troubleshooting others are having to undertake. I'm happy to anyway so let me know. I can do a walkaround of the setup, I think mine's all pretty much spot on now... ..apart from two things! Seeing as the guys are in, and I didn't really get any suggestions from before. Problem 1: Still ongoing this, slowing down through 2000 rpm and down to ~1800 rpm in gear there's a distinctive shudder. Feels almost like engine hiccuping or bucking, not excessively violent but enough to get on my t1ts. Absolutely no problems out of this rev range range slowing down or even accelerating. Vince @ Stealth went through some logs I did of when it occurs and said it all checks out fine. He did say that this is the typical rev range at which the injectors start coming back on. Wonder if that's got anything to do with it. Not had the engine mapped yet. Fuel pressure backs up when the injectors switch off or something? Maybe a slight vacuum leak? Problem 2: Maybe related, maybe not. Engine start (from cold), with the bonnet up I can hear a distinctive rattling/rumbling sound. More prominent towards the back, and no difference with the oil cap off. It almost sounds like the throttle body is oscillating or cycling? Only happens on a completely cold start, thinking this isn't related to oil pressure and hydraulic tappets/tensioner. Any other time of day its silent. Not really loud enough to hear with the bonnet down. Brother suggested it's related to the SAI, which of course in mine is blanked off/dummied to a high wattage resistor. Does the SAI fire on the first completely cold start of the car? What could be causing this noise? I can get a video of this if it helps. James

Chris, I don't think the plug matched in colour either. It wad black if I remember correctly? It was on the other row of connectors. I really wish I could remember what it was, it did present itself as a minor glitch though when I had it in the wrong plug. Mark I think told me it was this when I explained it to him.

I had this lead. Can't remember what it was exactly but there's 2 places it can be and mine was the wrong one! It's within the loom at the back of the fusebox. Look for the female connector but it might not necessarily be the same wire colours.

So you left coolant, oil and fuel in the car for 3 years? Start by changing all these fluids, they have a useful life and are probably beyond it. Fuel also doesn't bode we'll over time. I'd hazard a guess that your misfire is from the old petrol. This is what I know though, a more knowledgable person will be able to say more

Sounds just like me then Tim, thanks mate, I'll stick with the wheel bearing idea

Hoping I can pick some knowledgable brains here. I was determined I knew the problem, but now after reading some posts I'm not so sure. Started after I had the passenger outer CV joint as a scuffing sound. I have had a brake shield rub on the disc before, and at the time it sounded similar to that, so I dismissed it. Made numerous attempts to bend the brake shield to no avail, last weekend I had to take the brakes off to fix an ABS problem, so I had a look at the shield again. It was pretty shagged and hanging loose on one side, so I took the entire thing off. Thought this would fix it, but alas it hasn't. I've had the brakes apart numerous times now, pads look fine and the caliper itself isn't stuck. The car most importantly doesn't pull, nor is any disc hotter than the other. I therefore dismissed a binding brake. The noise has got progressively worse, but most importantly isn't a groaning/rumbling noise (which I've led to believe is a textbook wheel bearing sound). The noise doesn't go away when I brake, but it quietens sometimes completely when accelerating (loudest when slowing down). The noise can be really bad, echoing off walls its like a scuffing squealing sound. Sometimes it disappears altogether when the car is warm, but is most noticable cold. At higher speeds there is no shake, no rumbling, no pulling. I am starting to be able to hear it with the window down over the wind noise now at speed it's getting that bad. I had my mind set on a poorly tightened hub nut killing my wheel bearing early, but the noise just doesn't tie in with the symptoms of a bad bearing. Any ideas guys? I think I'll get a video made to help the diagnosis, but I'm really confused by this! I was just going to replace the wheelbearing myself, but I'm having doubts now...

Hi all, As per title, colour not essential as I can paint it but Dark Pearl Burgundy ideal if it came up. Needs to be rust free/surface only. Thanks, James

Any centre caps mate?

Nothing out of the ordinary, 7 codes IIRC and all but one are related to other modules that are present in a MKV but not mine and acceptable. One says something about a coolant temp sensor? There's a rad one that the 3.2 won't use if I use my original fan controller, is this where that fault is from?

Guys, still got this issue and need ideas. Worried the last post was lost pages ago! Juddering slowing down in gear, passing through 2000 rpm there is a distinctive judder. I know it's engine related as when I clear the codes on my ECU the problem goes away for a little while. Any indications from this? New MAF, New Lambdas, low miler engine, fuel pressure good and no vacuum feed, no vacuum leaks.

Just between those RPMs and only whilst in gear using the engine to slow down (overrun). Any gear does it.

Ok guys, got a problem Lambdas are working now, looks to be fully adaptive (finally). Engine works really well, apart from when slowing down on the overrun. As it drops below 2000 rpm and down to about 1800, there is a juddering felt almost like a hiccup. It's not massive but enough to annoy me, it feels less like mechanical and more like fuelling. Can't work out what though! Fuel pressure is set to 4 bar with no vacuum feed, and it's confirmed at that. Any ideas where to start? James

Exactly the same reason as Sean for me. Rebuild options seemed outrageously high and newer vr6 engines seem relatively easy to get hold of. For me it was a no brainer. I made sure the conversion is completely reversible though!

The twin air uses a hydraulic system to alter the intake valves but still defined by cam lobes, not an infinitely variable setup like they're showing in that video. Twin air -

That's strange, don't get a rasp but I do think I know what you're talking about. Maybe my silencer is just so large it doesn't allow it through? Yeah at the moment it's the 3" to the 2.25" exhaust, but the exhaust fits inside the decat pipe. What I did was put some cuts into the decat and then clamp it over it, but I have a strong feeling that's just adding a bottleneck. I'm wondering if it really is 3" on the mani & decat, as it did fit quite snug around the original exhaust.

Cheers Kev! Please bring it over when you've got the exhaust fitted! That a 2.5" you're going for then? Ideally I'll get one made up with a smaller suitcase silencer and ill take your advice and go with the 2.5". I think I get that noise already, like a hissing sound when you floor it? Don't worry it's not a vacuum leak I'm hearing haha. I've got the dub power mani which I was told is 3" and (wrongly) informed by the dub power guy that the setup should have the same diameter exhaust! 3" into 2.5" exhaust shouldn't be too bad, right? The remap, do you think upping the rev limit is asking for trouble or are the engines okay with it?

I had a serious fault with my throttle pedal going dead but that was due to a bad ecu so I guess my findings are of no good to you! I need some advice from fellow r32ers if you will, 2 things! Firstly, what exhaust diameter is best? I have the original magnet fitted and although its a brilliant exhaust, it's a little on the quiet side now mine has the r lump. I understand that's 2.25" and have been reading that golf owners favour 2.75-3" setups? Will 3" be quite loud? I want it louder but not mad, I think that might be mainly down to my mid silencer being suitcase sized. What has everyone else done on theirs? Second, is the topic of mapping the ecu. I regularly read that r32'd corrados can hit 270bhp+ quite often with the likes of stealth working their magic on the mapping. Is this actually realistic? Some have even hit 280! Is there really 30 hp to be had from a straight forward remap? I need it to go in soon for some tweaks so definitely going to get it mapped. Cheers