ProdigalSon

Glad you got it sorted, and for small moneys :wink: One elite tip I picked up from a mate is this: Don't worry about the position of the cambelt - you can match the new one to the old one this way, without the danger of any of the shafts rotating out of sync... 1) Use a Stanley knife or similar to cut the old cambelt into two narrow parallel strips while it is still on the engine - you can even do this while it is idling if you have a steady hand and press gently(!) 2) Once you have the cambelt in two, pull the outer part off (engine is switched off now!), leaving an exposed piece of each cog showing 3) Align the timing marks on the new belt with the old one, so that the new belt is half-on the cogs next to the remains of the old belt 4) Cut the second half of the old belt off, and push the new belt the rest of the way onto all the cogs 5) Sit back, relax, and feel a bit smug about doing it the clever way! 8) Credit to Gray for the top tip :thumb right:

Don't know yet, perhaps a quick blast down to So'ton to - yes, you guessed it - "burn off some fuel contamination in the oil" :lol: Have to check what's going on with my social secretary first, will keep you posted :wink:

Oh! makes sense... That was probably the loose single spade that came out of the fan loom! Why didn't I think of that? :( The fan overrun keeps the fan going after the engine is switched off, and I think is triggered by a sender in the block? Result is that the coolant in the rad gets fanned for longer if the engine is hot, so that you have cool coolant if you start up again soon after stopping. At least, that's my understanding, but as you know, I'm just a curious enthusiast - I'll leave the definitive statements for the experts with KR experience! :lol:

Bro, we checked the temp sender on the dizzy end of the block with the multimeter, it read about 2k (IIRC) at about 80C, so 'in spec' according to the Haynes (Golf 16V K-jet). Think you might have been busy and not noticed me do that - I was measuring resistance between the exposed pin and the collar, after removing the wire with the latched plastic cover. However... that multimeter did measure my battery at 19.5V and I know that it is actually about 13.5-14V, so the resistance reading could have been well off! :roll: Or I could have been measuring the wrong sender! Hope not :oops: Any ideas people?

Back to the neons jibe already? :shock: *dons asbestos* :lol:

That would make a lot of sense... :)

Genius - didn't think of that! :D

Thanks junkie, this one falls under the heading "for consideration in the long-term"! Much more pressing needs to be met before doing a 4wd conversion! :lol: (Off topic - did you see my question about your engine set up here?: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=52156&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=15#p760012)

Last time I looked, a bigger intercooler would cost about £4-500, depending on where you sourced it and if you fitted it yourself. Perhaps there are lower-cost options now... Not keen on the idea of altering the structural parts of the car to make space for a large FMIC, but many people have done it, so it can't be that unsafe, right? :scratch:

Nope, just being a bit of a n00b, sorry :oops: Nice thread there, but where are all the progress pics? Find it hard to mentally visualise a lot of what's discussed :? Suppose I need to see it in the flesh :D

Why do you ask mate? what would that indicate???? I'm guessing that if one cylinder took longer than the others, it might have a poor seal - not enough to loose significant pressure, but it wouldn't get the gauge up to the final reading as fast as the other cyls, no?

Er, bottled out of fitting the thermometer today as I couldn't work out the best/safest way to mount it, rather than just hang the sensor inside the pipe by the CO pot. The thought of it dropping something into the inlet manifold/engine... or worse, dropping something that recirculated into the charger... :shock: How did you fit yours, flusted?

Just reading back over this... Someone recently mentioned to me the possibility of having a 'twin-charged' G60 with a low pressure turbo added on, is that basically what you have junkie? Or did you remove the charger in favour of the turbo?

And here's why you should check old hoses even if they look 'fine' from the outside: Fuel Return Hose.JPG[/attachment:3v2rl583] Looks like a 17 year life is more than they were meant to have! :shock: :lol:

Hmm, I feel that the fact that it's well hidden detracts from its 'pikey factor' - at least I didn't remove the headlight and put a massive foam cone filter in! :shock: :lol: One BIG advantage is that the airbox has stopped doing its wob-wob impression of a duff wheel bearing (that was all you could hear after I cut the box but before I fitted the tubing), which was getting really annoying. Also, it does seem to breathe more freely at the top end now, and have better low end torque, and better economy, and it reduces traffic by 108%, and disables all speed cameras within a 10 mile radius. :) OK, I lied about that last one. It's only a 7 mile radius. Not yet, my friend, not yet... I mean "not been in the RS6 yet", rather than "I won't do your lights"! Could do you a pair of relay upgrade circuits, but it is about £20 in parts and about £280 labour (£35/hour)... Oh, OK, only £10/hour for mates rates :wink: :lol: I can get you the bits, and a clear set of instructions, but it will take a while to prep all the wiring and install it, especially as I'm not sure you have space in your VR6 bay that corresponds to where I have mounted the waterproof box with all the bits inside...

Er, yes, that would be about right :lol: Gradually replacing all the original bits, one by one... soon will have a brand new car! :D 8)

It's a 'splice in special' :wink: I hooked up the headlights today as well, and sorted my cold air feed, and replaced a dodgy fuel hose: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=22521&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=1515#p759946 It's good to have a friend with a heated, dehumidified, double garage with a built in pit :D He has an A-reg Quattro, a new TT and an RS6 8) Sweet collection of cars...

Fitted a cold air feed through the deleted carbon canister hole: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfCold Air Feed.JPG[/attachment:3bah0hsu] And yes, that is drainpipe! Once installed, I turned the corner piece to face the front. It sits neatly inside the lower wing and has an O-ring so that the long pipe plus curved end can be pulled off to make it easy to take the airbox out. Seems to make a huge difference to throttle response on-boost, but not much on part-throttle. Finished wiring up my upgraded headlight loom (but had no insulation tape handy, so it's a bit 'colourful'!) 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfHeadlight Loom.JPG[/attachment:3bah0hsu] In two minds about the loss of dim sidelights, but the improvement in headlight and spots is awesome. Replaced a fuel hose that was smelling in the cold mornings... and here's why! :shock: Fuel Return Hose.JPG[/attachment:3bah0hsu] The leaking fuel has cleaned all of the muck off the long fuel hose and the hose clips... Thanks to Gray20V from the Audi Forum for the lend of his elite garage with built-in pit :wink: :thumb right:

I have a digital thermometer with min/max log and 'inside' (engine bay) and 'outside' (throttle body) sensors, so I am going to rig it in my bay tomorrow and check the numbers from time to time. This is mainly out of curiosity, and also because I want to have a 'before' to compare with an 'after' once I've fitted the phenolic inlet manifold gasket that's been sitting in the boot for six months! Will post some figures in a week once I have some useful data.

Er, I got my 70C thermostat from G-Werkz too, but can't remember how much it cost... Have a receipt around here somewhere! My coolant temp never seems to get above 75-80C now, unless I'm sat still in traffic for a long time, and although the engine takes longer to warm up (especially in this cold weather), the oil temp seems to max out at 84C for normal driving and just under 100C for good, hard runs (that's without an oil cooler). From memory, the flange that the thermostat sits in at the bottom of the water pump is a bit tricky to remove as it catches on the PAS pump bracket, but is not too hard to do.

Next up in the quest for maximum efficiency :wink: is the phenolic inlet gasket that I got from the States last year, but haven't had the guts to tear my inlet manifold apart to fit it yet :oops: Before I do that, I'm going to plumb a digital thermometer into the throttle body or nearby area, so that I can take before and after readings... More news when that's all done. Anyone else done this mod, and what were the results (empirical and/or subjective)?

I connected my uprated wiring into the spot (full beam) loom this morning - huge difference, and will soon do the headlights on the other circuit too :D

Ta-da! Even though it was raining horizontally and I got soaked and chilled to the bone, this morning I hooked up the relay for the spots (did those first in case I'd made a mistake, can't really live without headlights but can lose spots without too much hassle!)... Drove back from my brother's this evening (after helping him to cut out a piece of rusty coolant pipe on his Jetta and bridge the gap) Jetta_Coolant_Fix.jpg[/attachment:3kly4cf8] and boy, those spots are something else now! :D The standard spot bulbs now look about 4 times as bright as the Xtreme headlight bulbs on standard wiring 8) Will probably do the headlights on Saturday when I have access to a heated garage! It has rained consistently every day I have tried to work on the C since Christmas. Why? Why must it rain? :roll: :lol:

Traverse, you should consider fitting the Philips Xtreme bulbs until you get your headlight wiring upgraded - I have them in now, and they make a big difference compared to the original bulbs, they are much brighter and 'bluer', to the extent that even though I have installed all of the relay wiring, I haven't felt it necessary to actually connect it to the headlight loom! :oops: *shamed into getting on with that today...* :lol: You can pick a pair up for about £20-25 from any motor factors. The 'H4' unit is a direct replacement for the combined dipped/sidelight headlamp itself, but I've not found an Xtreme replacement for full beam (spot) yet...

Is it on YouTube yet?