boost monkey

I think we need some to go have a look. Bonus points to those who know how to use vernier calipers (and have a pair!) :D

:lol: had a funny 5 mins! Well I used the switch last night, I taped the spare key into the switch itself (wasn't sure if it would come out or not) and then masking'd it to the side of the dash. Almost forgot to put the real key in the barrel but the steering lock reminded me quite quickly! Had no issues last night or this morning so i'm happy. Just a shame you have to get an excavation team and mountaineering gear to get to the bowels of the column to actually put it in its right place! I wonder if I can talk to Cazza "30 mins" VR into doing mine for me :D :D :D :D

^^6 i've still never seen yours Andy. I reckon all your pics in and around Oxford are photoshops!! :D

Yeah sorry about that. I didn't reload the page before posting! Hadn't actually seen your reply.

I'd take £500.

@Sam, I did have a think about double wishbones before! I reckon you could prob mount them directly to the side of the chassis rail (should be strong enough) but nothing really came of it. Just daydreaming really :-)

i'll reupload for Fishwire. There's no chance in hell i can answer an electro issue.

yeah I think going from cheap coils to cheap suspension kit isn't going to help much. perhaps go back to standard?

More thoughts - the fact that I have to wiggle key to fix the issue would point to the switch. I have picked it up from VW now, and ordered the load reduction relay (£13!!!) although it seems it's not needed anymore. I have trial fitted the switch as above and seems to let me use all my lovely electro toys inside :D The real acid test will be driving home tonight in the dark. No clue when I will be able to fit it. I hear different things about how easy/hard it is. Going to try and find a youtube video! :lol:

Well, after a couple of scary nights home with intermittent headlights I bit the bullet and ordered a new ignition switch from VW. It has arrived in today so I'm going to pick it up and trial fit at lunch (trial fit = cowling off, pull the wires out of old and test the switch as it hangs in mid air! :D) Also, I noticed that the teeth on my car key are VERY worn. They're so bad I'm not sure if the ignition barrel is doing very much. And because the end of the key just about reaches into the ignition switch, I wonder if it is this causing all my problems? Perhaps I need a new key and barrel as opposed to a switch. Also, found some interesting points on this thread: Golf Mk2 GTi 8v ignition switch? on GSF Forum Someone had exact same problem as me, and he changed the relief relay and everything was perfect after that. Anyone know what this is, or which number relay on the fuseboard? Fusebox cover panel doesn't mention it. Apparently it's one of the relays that all of these systems (healights, demister, heater blower and wipers) use. I'll ask at VAG when I pick up the switch. The local one to my work is quite knowledgeable which is nice. ---------- Post added at 10:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 AM ---------- After some more research, the relief relay, or X-relief is the relay which cuts all high current circuits when the key is turned to cranking position to start the car. So I guess there are 3 possible things going on here: - relay is bad, and keeps shorting out when driving (requires key wiggle to fix), - ign switch is bad, and thinks the key is in the cranking position even when driving (same solution as above), - key is so old that its slipping out of end of ign switch - bit far fetched if you ask me. All thoughts welcome - I have the same problem on the plum(!)

no i took it through the top hole on the hub. My bad! But, using that awesome corrado chassis dimension scan I can redo it as it gives centre of top strut mount from centre line of the car, that just leaves working out the distance between LBJ to the centre of tyre contact patch. Either way, all the design is possible. But as Kip said perhaps people would want different things? I guess we could make "allowances" for 4-pot mounting etc on the new hubs, and then if people don't want them they don't have to have them. I'm sure we could devise a way of fitting removable brackets. Perhaps that is making it too complex though.

The only thing i really know about castor is that more is better from a stability (high speed) point of view. There's a great book called Competition Car Suspension which I leant to Dirtytorque about 3 years ago and have never seen since...!

Ok so here's the kingpin on the hub model (attached to forum for Kev!) As seen it's the angle through the top mount and the bottom mount on the hub. You continue this line down to the contact patch of the tyre, and the distance between this point and the centre of the contact patch is called the scrub radius (SR). SR allows for easy or hard steering, and determines how well the steering wheel will re-centre itself to straight ahead position after a steering input has been made. Wiki has a good description of it. Search for Kingpin. Hope this helps. Jon.

KPI is a tricky fella. I can't say I completely understand it so I'll refer to Kip on this one. Kingpin inclination IIRC is the angle of the line through the top suspension mount (i.e. the 2 holes for the bottom of the damper) and through the bottom mount (in this case the lower ball joint). If this is changed I think the camber of the roadwheel may change when turning? Must get my old textbooks out! *calls for Kip*

You can stress analyse on the fangled computers too which will save cost. They can be pretty accurate too! We can always overengineer / overestimate the forces and then build in a factor of safety so they're completely bombproof. @KipVR, sorry mate I see what you mean about the casting people needing an opposite side to take a pattern from. Replied too quick.

Seems so! Lunchtime :D I'm hoping we can just use the mirror feature in CAD to make an opposite hub for the other side. Pikey but should work. How do we feel about fabricating new hubs? Super pikey shellsuit style?

^^^ if that was Oxford town instead then it would definitely have been mine.

Never fear! Both the protopeople and my casting guy can accept CAD 3D models so no moulding required. If we know (and can measure) exactly how and where the scrap bearing carriers were cut and shut one of us (me/KipVR if he's happy to) can modify the current hub 3D model to match what was done in real life and we can fire that across. I don't recommend proto'ing for metal parts - they build it up in layers of 6 microns, so solid parts end up being incredibly expensive (thousands normally). A plastic proto wouldn't take any of the force or weight but could work for checking geometry? I'm happy to fire off the current hub model to them for a ballpark quote. I'll remove the centre spindle before hand as it will just add £££. Re the foundry minimum order, I'm not sure they will have a min order but the tooling for the casts will be so expensive that you will prob want to get a decent amount of them made just so we're not paying £100 each for a modded hub. Just from experience. Actual casts after tooling seem to cost fook all. ---------- Post added at 12:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:17 PM ---------- Hi Andy, yeah that would be great. Can I come over and pull your hub and balljoint out? ;-) :-D

I have a contact through work? Also a rapid prototyping place too.

sounds like it could be timing. Once it comes off the cold start map the engine will behave differently.

Just for you Kev!! :D I don't like embedding them in the forum because it makes them harder to show other people, and they're nice and seamless when they're in the post body! Just my personal pref. I guess when you've seen them you can as Super Ultra ModRobot delete them off the server.

A massive thankyou goes to KipVR, who sent me cad data for the wheel hub last night. What a legend! Here are some basic renders to show geometry: I’m looking forward to working through this little R&D project :D I’m glad other people have been able to give input in various forms and help out. Hopefully we’ll get to a good design at the end of it.

The drive in to work saw the resurrection of the dash panel! I stuck my hand up past the fusebox cover panel and wiggled what I thought was the dash connector leads, and the dash worked almost all the way in. The revs still dropped off but it does that a lot. I think it's probably dirty connectors. So I'm going to order a speedo cable from a local place, and when I fit it I'll have a look at the dash connectors and tidy them up if need be. I'm thinking perhaps some light solvent on an earbud to clean up the dash connectors. I know from previous experience with keyboard that those printed circuits on plastic can sometimes gum up. Happy bean!

Speedo gave up the ghost tonight. I guess that scraping noise that was happening behind the speedo clock was a warning a few weeks ago! I'm not without any way to guage speed legitimately, but I have found some twin plug clocks on the bay so I'm remaining hopeful. So, out of the speedo, tacho, coolant guage, MFA and fuel guage only the latter 2 work! :lol:

it's my 29th so i'm not far behind! :D I had a MOT advisory saying one outer CV looked like it wasn't the right one for the car, so I guess that might be the juddering. I keep forgetting to check it. Yeah, that set seems to be reduced quite regularly. I think it's the lifetime guarantee that swings it for me. My breaker bar is one of theirs. I walked in one day after I sheared the head off on a VW hubnut, and they just gave me another one out of stock - didn't even ask to see the receipt! I did look at other sets like Draper etc but they're all £200+ even with discounts.