boost monkey

I am PMing you right now :D

Pics would be good. I don't really understand why this was needed. AFAIK the Corrado chassis had plenty of clearance for shafts because you can graft the rallye 4wd system on quite easily.

It may well pivot a little bit, as it is designed to do. Whether it pivots enough or not to allow for a certain amount of lowering I have no idea. I'm sure the strut will rotate around the top mount a fair deal. When they're hanging loose unattached to the hub you can definitely describe a circle with the hub end (if that makes sense) so they're not completely rigid. But then the top mounts are rubber as standard so that makes sense. Perhaps VW knew they may move a little bit in this way? I think I know what you mean. I found a thread on CGTI about someone who wanted to do the same thing. I think they just slotted the 3 LBJ bolt holes on the wishbone to allow them to use the squarer 4cyl LBJ item. I have no idea if it improved the bump steer issues though.

As the angle between wishbone and floor increases (wishbone outer moves up due to lowering) the top of the LBJ would move further inboard therefore the hub would also move further inboard unless ALL of the offset could be taken up in the balljoint's rotation. Yeah I mocked it up this weekend in Solidworks. I agree an extra joint complicates things; it's just an idea at this stage. No matey, I haven't seen any of your ideas. Are they in another thread?

Cheers Steve! One of the items out of your loft? ;-) I'm not sure i'll make it up to the RR day as it's my birthday weekend but I may still do... Yeah that's what i'm finding so far. It looks a bit grotty currently, and sod's law it'll play up! It's not really an easy thing to get back out with an engine in the way! ---------- Post added at 07:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:22 PM ---------- Should I? Shouldn't I? Brand new ATE mk2-esque brake servo

2 things for today. Small leak from the supertwisted hose that goes to the oil heat exchanger plate. Wish I'd noticed before the oil change! Causes a small weep which results in topping up coolant every few days. Does anyone(!) know if the rear engine mount and gearbox mount can be changed by removing the brackets that go to them whilst the engine/box is supported? This involves removing the L-shaped bracket from engine block to mount under the servo, and also removing the gearbox bracketry to do the box mount. I'm still getting a lot of judder when setting off in first, and also a lot of vibration and revs bottoming out if I try to pull away in 2nd (awful in 3rd) from around 1000rpm. This isn't pulling away from a standstill, just from rolling at a speed which corellates to 1000rpm in 2nd and then 3rd. I do not expect a mk2 gti to be able to pull away in 2nd from a stop, let alone 3rd! I am not (that) deluded :D \On a more general note, it's my birthday in a few weeks and i've convinced my wife to buy me the Halfords Pro 150 piece socket set as its currently half price at 99.99 :D

Great to know you can fix the car with the bits at hand! :D well done Captain Sideburns.

I'm also having trouble sourcing a new brake servo. I know it's not something that tends to go wrong, but it'll prob be the only part that's original at the rate that I'm going and I'd just like to grab a new one if I can. No luck through AVS. Not sure I even want to ask VAG for a price! From research, the servo is the 229mm item and the MC is 22.2mm. I'd like to keep them the same at this stage, just like for like. If anyone has any ideas, or knows of a servo that will be a direct fit from another model then please let me know. The servo and mc are 358612107B and 357611019B respectively - although the MC is called a tandem one which I think means it only has 2 outlets. So i'm more likely to go with the 4-outlet Meyle item.

Tintin 3D :D 8 out of 10. The 3D was the best i've seen IIRC, and also the animation is so good that after a few mins you forget it's all computerised.

I'm 6ft2 and I fit in the back reasonably well! :D

Good call Sam. Just playing around with the model and i'm thinking that if my datum point is wrong then everything else will be out. Also as the balljoint pin is mounted at approx 70degrees (from the model) to the bolting face I starting to think that the more a car is lowered, the more inboard the hub would move. This also means the suspension strut will be running slightly non-vertical and i'm sure there'll be a bunch of other issues also. So I'm thinking we might need a dynamic LBE. That is, one with a movable joint in. p.s. why you up so early on a sunday! :lol:

Cheers Jay, that would be great :D

1 question: anyone know what angle the wishbone sits at (compared to ground / horizontal) at standard ride height? Can't find the info anywhere.

Good call!! I nudge the other one and get something sorted!! :D

Aha I see you mean about dropped spindles now. Yes, a ball joint extender just corrects the geometry after a car has been lowered. A spindle modded hub would remove the arch clearance whilst keeping standard suspension. But wouldn't there be wheel fouling issues with the arch as the standard suspension would obviously have a standard range of travel? i.e. it wouldn't bottom out until the actual tyre was somewhere up near the top mount. Or have I missed the point? ---------- Post added at 06:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:24 PM ---------- SO I have researched the wishbones a little and found some data on CGTI that suggests that VR6 wishbones are 400mm between balljoint centre line and the centreline of the wishbone front bolt. This will be really useful as this will dictate the angle change of the LBJ centreline, how much the hub moves inboard by an therefore what is needed to correct it. Going to mock up a dodgy looking wishbone now! :D

Great work Andy! Fancy a cruise over to the shire? :D

No, the idea here is to design a part that allows aftermarket lowered suspension (kits / coilovers) to be used without losing standard suspension geometry range. Basically, it rides like its standard height but handles like its lowered.

Hi team, well I managed to get the 3D scan dumped into CAD. there's some holes(!) in the model. Looks like a torn rubber boot actually! LOL. But this is what I've made from it so far. @Jay, was it an old LBJ that was scanned by your mate? The screw thread at the top looks a bit worse for wear as does the allan key hole? Shouldn't matter really, I'll have a tinker this weekend with it. The pics:

Jay has sent me some CAD data but can't get it open at the mo :-s once we figure it out i'll knock up a model and throw it up here. Then all that's left is the hub...! Edit: sorry all, first time i downloaded CAD file it stopped at about 15% without me realising! Hence not opening. Feel like an arse. Got it working now. Will post some stuff up here when I can.

:lol: I knew you'd come round to ITBs! :D Would be great to get some info from Gareth if you can. Whenever i've seen that car it's at WOT which makes conversation a bit of an issue... :-s

leaving it to the red on the fuel guage is pretty dangerous on old cars. My Mk2 can go to the bottom of the red and still have a litre in it. My corrado is bone dry at the BEGINNING of the red (ask me how I know this...) Deffo check the filter as something could have been sucked through which has now blocked it.

lol. we've been trying to do a meet forever! It will probs never happen. But if it does, I wouldn't mind a hand with the plum. And I can make an awesome cup of tea?

Last time I used ECP I asked for a 1.8 16v oil pump for an old golf. I ended up with a 1.8 8v digi pump with a completely different drive. The guy didn't want to hear about the fact they're completely different, and just started to whimper because I got within 2ft of his mk3 polo in the car park when driving in! Pansy. I've been using VW Spares ever since then (years ago) and never been let down since. Deffo recommend them to anyone. Great prices and service as per Cazzler.

Dude, get a solid pulley from a mk2 or that item that Suuuuuuppeeerrrrcharged mentioned. Don't replace it with another idler pulley. it's a piece of shít. Mine failed on me before and engine overheated to the point that it took 4 hours to limp home about 35 miles.

Perhaps your headlight switch is dead? I've heard that they melt inside or something like that.