boost monkey

I would have thought you'll have not much force going through the roof panel if you're using a rollcage with overhead bar(which you should be for a track car) anyways?

pretty sure the passat frame is the same. The golf mk2 one will fit - you will just lose the vibration damping block attachment towards the front edge of the frame, and also the rear tabs that extend further down the chassis rails for extra support at the back past the anti-roll bar. Also you *may* have to use mk2 golf wishbones, but i'm not 100% on that. been a while since i played around with the idea. Also, if you're looking into getting a new mk2 frame - try here. Not sure if theyre any good. only ordered a stalk from them so far.

yeah, ditto what Stevo said. The CL doesn't work on my golf tailgate and sometimes it takes the pump an extra second to lock all the doors.

Let's be realistic. Why spend so much money on tools? You own a corrado. Next week your chains will go or your rear axle will implode and you'll wish you hadn't spent £500 on a torque wrench that you'll use 3 times a year. 2p :D

good luck matey, keep persevering. Before long it will be running great :D

Agree with FishHay. Both my C and mk2 sound like that.

LOL @ BMW Coupe - 5.0 V8 in title, then 3.3 litre in spec!

I had a (not great) revelation today. One good thing was that I realized that I don’t actually need the key in the ignition switch to keep the car going! It seems so obvious now – people who nick cars don’t have the key! :lol: so instead of taping it all together (and having to undo it when I park up) I just started the car, popped the spare key in the fusebox tray bit, stuffed the switch and connecting loom up in the dash and went on my merry way. The not great part was that I think I need a new ignition key (and therefore barrel). When I parked up this morning, the spare key (with lovely sharp and wide grooves cut into it) wasn’t at hand, so I popped the normal VW key out of the barrel and turned off the switch. The key just spun in the centre of the switch because it is so worn that the ‘tabs’ at the end of the key weren’t wide enough to grip the slot on the switch and turn the ignition off. Have a look at the two keys (the plain key is for the driver door): So I’m pretty sure I’m going to cancel my ignition switch install at the local garage (Hope you’re happy now Cazza?! ;-) ) and hunt for a barrel with a decent looking key. I'm actually thinking perhaps the current switch is fine and the key is just too worn to turn it anymore! Only noticed it now when the winter sets in due to using the rear demister, wipers and lights a whole lot more :-( This is kind of a blessing in disguise as the metal bracket with the 3 holes on that the two stalks bolt on to is a bit ropey (the bottom bolt is cross-threaded and used to wiggle out and set the horn off at random points so I removed it!) so I’m looking to replace the lot. And yes don’t worry – I’m actually looking at getting rid of the golf and getting a diesel as a daily – allowing me to concentrate on the Plum again :D

There's women in that picture - was it some kind of tea making experiment?

:lol: sorry. Didn't mean to steal your glory *gives glory back* I've been doing searches on "corrado kpi" on the goog, although I have had a disturbingly high amount of hits for 'key performance indicators'. It seems an early purple 16v with a blown engine doesn't meet their requirements :lol: Jay, I will start on the angled movement thing then and see where I get to :D

They are definitely not identical. Well done for using the search also. I covered this about 2 years ago :wave: Edit: Make that 3.5 years ago. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?38704-Using-mk2-golf-subframe-on-Corrado-ffs...&highlight=corrado+golf+subframe using the terms "corrado golf subframe" in the search function.

I have the tools for brake lines and have done most of them on the plum, but they're by no means fun. I bent the rear axle ones a few times as they're so fiddly, and need to avoid this bracket or go through that clip. Deffo something to farm out imo. Same with the rack, I would just replace both rods and boots at the same time and be done with it for a few more years. Those shouldn't be too bad. As you know the cable issues tend to be when they stick in thos galvanised pipes that run from interior to exterior.

To both of you, I honestly don't know and I don't have time to check :-/ I don't enjoy throwing my car at a garage but I just don't have the time or daylight these days! I'm sure we have all been here before - throwing our car at a garage to sort an issue that for whatever reason we can't do ourselves. I don't really mind the odd occasion when I do it, as I've rebuilt most of the corrado chassis by myself and only go to garages to use a bearing press / MOT time etc :-)

Over the weekend, I patched up the two models a little (hub and lbj). I'm going to try and calculate the kpi from the corrado chassis dimensions I have, although it won't be that easy as the castor will have to be accounted for to realise the true 3D position of the hub, and subsequently the balljoint. I'm going to play around with ideas of shortening the hub (make a new model) and also offset the shocker mount points to add in a little widetrack perhaps. It's easy to play with on the computer and doesn't cost anything so i'll see what I can come up with. ---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:50 AM ---------- Good thread based on Mk2 Golf GTi - I can't imagine Corrogated VR6 si too much different. Scrub radius, and offset importance

I've got a rear screen you can have matey. It's at big bros house - I can stick a multimeter across the two contact ends if you like and check it's still good. You can have it FOC :salute:

next time it's running, try farting through the intake. If the revs jump up then we know that you have a boost leak. ....or you had a curry :lol: *tries to raise the tone again and fails*

Sounds good Jay. Wonder how long I'd need to distract you to pinch some body panels :lol: :D

Cheers for the input matey. I'll deffo clear out the sunroof drain channels. Am I right I can do it without removing headliner/anything? Dunno if this matters, but it's worse when breaking (water running towards front of car then dripping into my fun zone) although sometimes drips slowly on me. Never the missus :/ He prob is. He's not the dealer i normally use (i.e. have spent hundreds with on Corrado resto) so he doesn't know me at all. The upside is I can fleece big bro for some after convincing him to do the vac lines on his G60 :D I will prob do the lines on my KR 16v should I put one back in the Plum. Fair enough. Still it was good news in light of the £100+ labour costs I had read about! I wasn't really dreading doing it myself as I can play with the stalks / dash panel bulbs/ speedo cable whilst I'm there. It's just tricky taking time off work as I'm a contractor so have to claim holiday out of a pool. And I'm always super busy on the weekends (as the Plum is testament to).

Yes :D let's all meet in Oxford. I hear there's an ultra rare purple C there that needs a bit of hands on work...

Sorry to hear your troubles fella! That really sucks. Not doing up the LBJ bolts is a bit of a rookie mistake :-/ RIP to Sushi also. May your heart feel the warmth s/he left behind, and move on to greater things. I wouldn't worry about the MFA boost check. Mine also reads 0. Who'd have thunk?

Well I haven't fitted the VAG ignition switch yet. The old switch is fine for day driving, but when it gets dark I don't risk it and wire in the new one. I got a quote for getting the switch fitted of £43 so I'm definitely going to take that up. It's the same place that did the cambelt, so I trust them a bit. Also, I've heard that doing the switch on an early mk2 is a bit easier as you don't have to use a hub puller on the splined section of the column as it's not there on pre 1990 models so that's nice. Perhaps the quotes of £90 for fitting that I found whilst researching were for late model mk2s. As a company is doing it, I have ordered the tiny screw (N0441155 £0.13+VAT) and spring ring (N0120032 £0.07+VAT) incase they get arsey about bodging it in there(!) I also took the chance to order the correct vacuum hose for the golf. You were right Tony, it's a 1m length and you have to order it in 5m reels. That's £18.35 +VAT for 5m (N0201391). As you know my MFA stalk has always been a bit dodgy including this replacement one. Perhaps not surprising as they're both 22 years old. Anyways, I found a place that sells brand new Meyle(?) non-MFA stalks with free delivery for £12.90 (http://www.eurowagens.com - they also do brand new late spec/ C spec MFA ones for £30ish). I'm 98.2% sure that all the stalks are pretty much the same, as the ends of them can be removed and swapped so i'm hoping to swap the MFA end of mine onto the brand new stalk - after all, it's the rear wiper wash mech that I am having most trouble with and not the MFA side of things. I also want to order a speedo cable and coolant pipe from VW Heritage. Seeing as the rev counter is a bit dodgy I have no way of judging speed when it decides to play dead - the speedo cable gave up about a week ago. From VW Heritage, the cable is genuine but the hose is repro. Doesn't really bother me. It'll prob still be better than a 2nd hand gen one. I looked up sunroof seals also as mine has been dripping on me this week. It's £50 ish. So I guess I will be dripped on a bit more, at least for this week. And yes, spending money on the golf does divert it from the Corrado but without the Golf running properly I wouldn't be able to go to work, get paid, and have money to start with. It's a vicious Catch 22, but i'm not planning to go overboard with it. ---------- Post added at 01:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ---------- Oh and either the alternator or one of my tappets is giving up as there's a distinct tapping sound at idle from the crank pulley end of the block. I'll get the multi on the alt and try to rule that out. Also researched that the tacho signal is the red/black wire from the -ve side of coil. I'll check that out too.

Sounds great davros. Do your carriers have stone guards on them? i.e. can you answer Kip's question above?

So I managed to close the bonnet recently and one of the pins locked down onto the slam panel :-/ Seeing as I removed the bonnet release cable about 6 weeks ago does anyone know how I can get the two apart again? Thanks.

Alex - taking payment....or taking names!

Drivers side, below and to the right of the steering wheel at the door end of the dash). There should be a plastic cover that must be removed but it's deffo not screwed in.