boost monkey

Perfect fella! been working with IGES data a lot at work recently. I'll get it mocked up into 3D and go from there :D sorry for the delay in seeing this. ---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:57 PM ---------- Cheers MJ, that's really helpful :-) I understand that they can't be modded in the same way as a 4pot. But they can still be made to work. The extenders will just have to compensate for the fact that the hub will want to move inboard. I'm sure it can be done. I've done a couple of suspension design projects so far - one at uni and one in industry so I'm happy to play with it! We're not going to lose anything by just checking the geometry over the arc that the wishbone travels and knocking up some cad stuff. I'm quietly confident we can get something to work.

surely if it's just an airline t-piece you could use any connector that's up to the job? I think trying to root out original obsolete parts for the corrado is a bit of a dead end. There might be something from a newer VW that'll work. Have you asked VW if it's been replaced by a newer part number?

I know dirtytorque was working on the MS install of his. Not seen him for a couple of years though :-(

Sam, perhaps your larger wheels have altered the gearing? That would mean you have to give X% more throttle to get the same in-gear acceleration. I'm assuming Wigs has standard wheels on his car. Standard for the engine I mean. Not that engines have wheels. Oh you know what I mean...! With regards to the lack of top end on the R32, I know what you mean - but it's so counterintuitive isn't it! We all know that 2v per cyl is good for low down punch and 4v per cyl is good for top end (generally speaking) so the 24V should be a bit of a screamer. But as said, only about 5-10% of R32 owners will drive like that, so the VW ECU is geared toward the masses that change up below 4000rpm.

4mx4m tarp for the win. Accept no substitutes. You know something smart will get ruined!

Perhaps they thought it was an actual Aero and therefore edible?

So, the first plan for the Plum is to finish the brake lines! I'm going to bend and fit the OSF line which is obviously the shortest and also the NSF which goes from the T-piece and then they're all done. I only have one brand new 280mm calipers and 2 older ones which I bought off Toad's White VR6 about 75 years ago. If I can find another new one then I'll fit both of these. I also want to look at replacing the servo and the brake m/c whilst i'm there. I'll be researching the pros and cons of uprating to a slightly larger item and see what the budget can manage. When that's done the brakes and suspension will be complete, and then I just have to find an engine :D ---------- Post added at 01:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:47 PM ---------- Just found a new Meyle made Brake MC for £30 but it's 4 outlets. Is it worth using all 4 outs to each wheel or just blank up the unused ports? I'm guessing i'll be ok with a 22mm MC even though the front calipers are slightly bigger.

the fact that they rev and breathe so well also means they take boost much much better too. I know some honda engines can make a lot of power from someone just sneezing near the intake.

so sorry to hear about that mate :/ driving standards seem to have fallen through the floor in the last few years. Well it seems that way to me anyways.

Cheers for the input :D yeah I won't be doing much to the golf - just maintenance as it's the daily. I am starting to get geared back up on the Plum - honest!! Once the Purple Paperweight is finished I can start on the golf! :lol:

omg ant, I got so worried that it had been wrecked when you said Retired! Glad to know it's safe and tucked up. I threw the tarp back over the Plum today. We can't all have garages! :-s

Ok no probs. I think I have narrowed it down to the ignition switch. It was doing it again today with just the interior fan blowers on. I wiggled the key and the fans came back. It also did it tonight with the headlights on. I wiggled the key and pushed it further into the barrel (due to the switch just using the very tip of the key I think?) and they came back on. So I think it's deffo the ignition switch. I'm not going to change it. We all know what a ballache it is to swap out - although I do have a new column cowling upper and lower panel, and also need to fettle the wash wipe stalk a little more so perhaps I will do it all at the same time. I've also tracked down the rev counter problem to the dash panel itself, by elimination everything else. Hopefully I can keep the same main panel and just swap the tacho out. I also restored the braided earth strap from coil bracket to engine. I stripped the old plastic cover off it and left it in some lemon juice(!) to remove oxidation. Then I used some 7mm Maplins Heatshrink (thanks bro!) to replace the cover. Then I put it back on the car. Looks quite new now! Finally, I did an oil change today with all genuine parts (5L synta silver, copper crush washer and filter for £32 at dealer) which went well. I used some Wynn's Engine Flush which I have used for a number of years just to thin the oil out and try to dissolve some of the buildup. Whilst checking the sump nut for leaks, I did think the bottom end was a bit whirry - could deffo hear the crank doing its thing from under the car. Not sure if that's good or not. Also one of the hydro tappets is deffo dead I think. I know it's not a big issue, i could just hear it rattling a little. The oil change went well though, and all is fine again. I'm taking your advice of keeping the 8v well oiled for longevity! I'd like to pick up a spare PB head sometime and rebuild it. That would be cool. I was also thinking of replacing the fuel rail for new as I know someone who had theirs crack when doing some maintenance. Also wondering about upgrading the injectors for a new design - so newer spray pattern. I know the VR boys do this sometimes and it can help running.

tony ack ack attack, I have no #100 relay. But I have have 2 53's. Not sure if that helps. There's only about 6 relays on the whole fuseboard! Went to pick up some synta silver for an oil change this weekend and local VW are out. They only stock 5W grades now. That's like a laxative to this old engine!

Perhaps they're the next weakest link when you go with solid/VT mounts. I mean they're only about 3mm thick sheet steel.

I'm more than happy to CAD up some VR6 BJE's. I hadn't realised that thread had tumbleweeded; I was awaiting for someone who is handy with a vernier caliper and had all the correct bits to give me some dimensions! It really woudn't take too long to model, and I could throw it at a local rapid prototyping very easily. WOuld only be a few days turnaround :D If anyone has a spare LBJ and hub they can lend me I'd be happy to do it myself, I just don't have the cashola at the mo to outlay for this if there really isn't Group-Buy levels of interest. Anyways, sorry for the hijack. ---------- Post added at 02:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:21 PM ---------- I would be surprised if this is the case. But that being said I have never seen a VR6 hub or LBJ so I've got nothing to base this on. Sounds intriguing!

what's happened to yours?

Jacko, are you torquing that bolts up to the right amount when you replace it or just using a normal socket/spanner? That might be why it keeps coming out. I think welding is a little OTT. It would be worth finding out what the problem is first. If it's the bolt I think you mean (bigger/fatter one underneath) it threads into the mount and not the cross-member. If it keeps coming out of the VT mount, then you may have cross-threaded and damaged the mount as IIRC they're made from ali and the bolts will be steel.

Just watched the sparky vid! very cool :D Like the added touch of turning out the lights.

Is this along the same lines as the BJEs or am I getting confused? Sam why do you say the VR6 ones can't be made? IIRC Jay and I were talking about it. It's a very simple machining jobby really.

Cheers tony, I'll check the relay. I did notice that my fusebox is incredibly sparse - I have only a handful of relays in there and lots of empty slots. I'm guessing for the optional dealer things? Would it help to post a pic of the dash? There are a few inline fuse things, I'm guessing it's for alarm/immob and also headunit. It didn't do it this morning, but I didn't have the 3 systems (demister, blower and lights) all on at the same time. Yeah the light comes on full, the oil light flashes and the coolant one does a bit of a jig but i think we've covered that one now. in previous experience in golfs when the alternator goes, the whole car dies. I remember once when mine went and I only managed a few more miles before it completely ground to a halt.

great news AngloScot!!! I love the simple fixes, esp when we know they could be a new block or something insane.

Tiffin is good stuff, an ex housemate used to make it. I miss lardy cake too but i also like my arteries, and unfortunately the blood delivery system is higher priority...

I think you're a cake chewing soap dodger either way. ;)

:lol: fair enough. I lived in swindon for ages. So you're a country bumpkin! It's all making sense now :D

No I haven't checked the voltage yet, 'll have to do that at home where the MM is :-) Are you actually english??? Don't spoil my fantasy....