boost monkey

Yeah the relay goes crazy when turning right, or indicating right. Which makes me think it's something crossing over or touching and shorting out. ---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 AM ---------- I really don't wanna cut up any trim panels :( I'm wondering what the easiest place to mount the horn is, I'm thinking one of the dash blanks but I know they are money. I have a pikey little switch someone had in the Plum which i could use for now. Have got the car back now. Advisories: - Play in N/S/R wheel bearing, - Rear Exhaust Box Corroded and blowing slightly, - O/S/R coil spring not seated centrally in lower cup, - Play in O/S Inner tie rod, - Signs that the front engine mount lower bolt may be loose, - N/S/F CV Joint may be incorrect for car as there is very little clearance around it. Wheel bearing is easy, I'm guessing a new rear box at some point, relocating the spring is easy too, replace tie rod and do tracking(?), tighten up engine mount lower bolt(!) and possibly swap NSF driveshaft. ---------- Post added at 11:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 AM ---------- Ok, here's what I'm thinking with regards to the MFA stalk being dodgy (VW confirmed today they were deleted in 2008 ). Buy a new non-MFA washer/wiper stalk for the Golf: Then, remove the end of it (I'm pretty sure these have lugs on the back of them) and replace with the MFA end of my current one. Then refit and everyone is happy. Anyone know if that will work?

Spoke to VW just now, part was deleted back in 2008 :( Part number is: 191 953 519 A01C Cash waiting!

You can find good deals if you're lucky. I've had cheap 16vs which rotted away at the rear, and others which had no rot in the normal places and just some scabs here and there. Don't take advice on the 16v from people who haven't driven it! No offence Mystic! they're not that bad really, have the same torque as the 8v lowdown but more after 4000. They sometimes just don't feel as fast. And yes, sloppy gearchange is only a £10 job and you can easily replace the bushes yourself so that's definitely not something to turn a car down on. TO be honest, the Mk2 and Corrado are a very similar platform so if you know what to look out for on a C you will do ok on a Mk2 (just don't expect electric mirrors and hydro clutches!!)

I'm going to pick up the car soon. I'm not really sure how to do it, as all my tools are at my bro's house which I don't have access to at the moment. The bulb is easy, I can drive to halfords and do that if I have to, but the horn is a different kettle of fish. It must be a short, there's nothing wrong with the switch in the middle of the wheel. I like the cowling idea, and it could be easy as my upper and lower cowling are held on with an elastic band! This is cos whoever had the column apart last time broke the lugs for the screws and used silicone to hold it together. Perhaps I should go pick it up and see what's what. ---------- Post added at 10:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 AM ---------- Cheers Steve. Perhaps I should take tools up to the garage and do it there! :lol:

I don't think I can actually, because the MOT was up yesterday and all I have is a fail sheet!

:lol: no trolling allowed? Ok then :( ---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ---------- That just proves everyone in a 16 was a worse driver than you, nothing more :lol:

Maps are best tailored to each car. Even if the specs are the same, engines between cars will be slightly different and it's worth spending the time on getting it mapped properly.

So how much do you want to pay?

Understandable, I just don't think you will find the wings in the colour you need, the condition you want and the price you wanna pay. I've got some mint wings but they are late spec and the wrong colour. Just have to roll with the punches.

I think finding a set of god condition late wings will be hard enough, let alone getting the colour you want. Factoring in getting them sprayed aqua would be wise.

lol no probs :D It must have something to do with the steering column, the only reason I have gone anywhere near the fusebox is to unplug the MFA molex connector but that's just in the vicinity. Cheers Cazza, I'm hoping to fix it all in the morning but it's nice to know I can still go about my student laziness :lol:

Fair enough, I'm going off the bentley. Maybe the US needs bigger current for their fat asses.

Anyone know if i'm allowed to drive the car as usual over this 10 day grace period, or is it strictly a fix and return for MOT asap kinda thing? ---------- Post added at 11:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 PM ---------- Caza, I don't think the loom will be the same. The stalks definitely aren't. Seems 1989 was the crossover between CE1 and CE2 based electrics (Central Electric 1/2)

...or you'll cry?

Ok. First things first, that is the top of the fusebox not the bottom. And those two relays are additional ones added, as you already have the first 12 (2 rows of 6) filled up. They are for the fuel pump and radiator fan after run control. I can't find any information on what those fuses are though. The only thing listed to need a 30A fuse (anove relay 31) is the radiator fan, so I'd assume for some unknown reason the fuses linked to those circuits are situated in a different place to normal. If the blue fuse is a 20A, that would fit as this is what the fuel pump requires.

Don't you mean cheating the speedo? And why would you want an auto box which a gearstick caressed by pig pubes? Plus, it's a VR6. So it'll prob dive into a ditch at the first opportunity.

Yeah the stainless ones are made from much thinner metal so do tend to expand a shrink which can lead to mechanical failure.

All those in favour of banishment due to tri-spokes alone say 'I'

Jim, are you sure your engine mounts are good? I found on a mk2 I had that the mounts were going which was putting extra stress on the exhaust system because the engine was moving about so much. Scared to hear your powerflow rotted though, that's what came with the Plum! Sorry to hear the red is still causing you grief, iirc it's the one which had major cooling issues a couple of years back?

Yeah, I think you're right. We've had the wheel off a lot over the weekend mending that stalk (which is now pinned with brass!) I still feel like a complete newbie for getting a fail due to a lightbulb, and if the horn hadn't started playing up it would have been a clean pass. Never mind. I'll have the wheel off asap and check what's going on under there.

Just heard from the garage that I need a numberplate lightbulb and to sort the horn out properly then they can pass it. I thought that's a pretty good result considering it was one of my classic blind Ebay purchases from about a week ago! :lol: they've given me 10 days grace to get them fixed, so I think i'll run down to the plum and pull a bulb and then have another look at the horn. Anyone got any ideas why it's tripping out all the time?

what's the state of the suspension, things like wishbones? The suspension could be causing the wheels to wander if the bushes are wearing out.

Also that link has your postcode in the URL. Not the best thing to be advertising!

If my MFA was reading right, I was doing high 30s / low 40s MPG last night cruising the ring road at 50 in 5th. Perhaps that has resolved itself. Yeah I was wondering about the nylon surround. I've found a black tailgate but it's £90 which is a bit strong. Others are not black but alot cheaper. Decisions decisions. ---------- Post added at 09:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 AM ---------- Also despite the car feeling sluggish the other day, I took it out last night with ambient temp of 14 degrees according to the MFA and it seemed so much faster. Definitely pulled through the gears faster. ---------- Post added at 10:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 AM ---------- Just dropped it off for MOT. I left the horn fuse out and mentioned the problem. I'm hoping it's just a wire somewhere that has come loose and playing up as we've had the column apart to fix the stalk. I have no idea whether it will pass easily or not. I hope it will, but I've only had it for the weekend and I just haven't had enough time to go over it properly. I guess time will tell. ---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ---------- Items on my parts list: The little brackets that hold the sun visors to the roof (both passenger and driver), one of those fiddly little bulbs which illuminates the dash when the lights are on, Parcel shelf strap, wheel centre caps of some variety, tailgate, clutch. I dug out my set of VW mats from the parts pile too and will be putting those in at some point.

Ha ha yeah!! Funny thing is the washer pump is the WRONG one too! So I think what happened was the contacts in the stalk corroded for some reason, the owner decided that it was the washer pump (without testing) so swapped that one (part number starting 1HO i think?) and spliced the loom to fit (!) and then pulled on the stalk so @#!*% hard trying to make the washers work that he snapped it off!! Insane. We had tried a lot of things, before my bro (who actually understands about electronics) decides to pull out the dremel and clean up the contacts just in case. And there you have it, one working switch. I have some stalk rebuild pics coming soon! :lol: It's the flat black I'm afraid. I was getting excited then! I thought that maybe someone might have added it as an option at the dealership, but actually they're in much too good a condition for that and must have been a recent thing. Also, the manual mirror adjuster nobs are going a bit funny. The right one seems to have a giant nut behind the doorcard (unless I'm seeing things). The alloys came up pretty well although are still scuffed and peeling. I'm thinking some gunmetal grey paint? Fair enough, I'll add it to the list along with a clutch. Will I be able to buy a base model tailgate and move over the spoiler, or is it best to just find a gti 'gate? Today's jobs included cleaning and greasing the main battery earth, and the braided strap earth at rocker cover end (couldn't get to the coil end, so much stuff there) in a bid to fix the rev counter. Seems to have worked so far. I tried to do the coolant guage too (little 1-pin sensor on gearbox end of block by the coolant flange?) but when I turned the nut to undo it and access the wires the whole lot turned, sensor and all! So I cleaned it up and slapped some grease on it anyways. Probs didn't do much. Also, the horn went spastic tonight. I was driving along and took a beanz line through a big roundabout, and just at the other side of it the horn started shorting out. It did it for ages, and seemed to be connected to the indicator activity along with very slight clockwise steering wheel movements. I pulled over and pulled the horn switch off the steering wheel, and carried on my journey. That didn't stop it! I pulled over very soon after to yank the fuse as I was going through residential streets and the Mk2 horn ain't exactly subtle. So, any ideas of why the horn is now possessed? I could actually hear the horn relay going crazy and clicking its contacts off on the journey home after I pulled the fuse, I'm guessing this points to a short circuit at the fusebox? But then why would it do it under certain steering inputs? Odd. Pics from today: