boost monkey

if you are replacing the manifold, just get a 4-branch. It works out about the same price as the new OEM from VAG as the downpipe with the silencer in is £150 by itself.

god, i gave up with those things and got a local garage to press them in. so so so so so much less hassle.

I think he meant how do you physically join the carbon fibre to the steel body? Is it epoxy or something?

lol, like there aren't enough flimsy parts on the Corrado already? :D

It was 16 inches too big? Surely that's something you notice before you buy it... ---------- Post added at 04:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:18 PM ---------- Also, with the OP's link, why is the brace bent in 2 positions? What is it designed to route around/over?

Are you sure a little piece of metal bouncing about in the sump pan caused the pulley to warp? that sounds pretty far fetched.

Why don't you just use mild steel? It'll be cheaper and newer!

That is a mighty fine invention! I would have one :D

LOL!! I think I missed mod status due to the long absence I had from CF last year :D

They're amazing!!! a chunk of metal you have to sell your kidney for! do it! do it now!!

I will hunt you down Poll!! I can't believe you're local and have stalked my driveway without popping in for a cuppa!

I'm surprised that you need to get to 4000+ to feel the torque in a blown VR.

Dead input shaft bearing? that would be more of a rumble though.

sounds like perhaps the CSI is dead then if unplugging it has helped that much. Or the loom controlling it has a break somewhere.

As James said, there are things you can do to reduce under bonnet temps. AFAIK, removing the scuttle trim rubber seal will not only let the hot air escape out of the back, but the air flow over the bonnet will (in theory) create a negative pressure region at the base of the windscreen, pulling air back on itself and under the bonnet, flushing the exhaust side of the engine with ambient air. I am careful about suggesting turbo jackets. Insulating a device which gets extremely hot as standard can lead to premature failure in my eyes (or push more of the heat into the coolant fluid, whether oil or water, resulting in more frequent oil changes). I would recommend insulating other components AGAINST the turbo heat before mummifying the hottest item in your engine bay. Lining the underneath of your bonnet with insulation will keep that protected and may not actually push the heat into other components as you may think. I can't remember if fibreglass is flammable but the resin is fairly solvent heavy I think.

Ah yes the waffle steering rack! :D

Pretty sure they're just painted in black like the wishbones et al. The sludge will accumulate with time.

I cut my scrapper shell up into bits with a circular saw! Shame your shell wasn't in better condition else you could have made some money with OEM sills etc.

Good man. Shocks really REALLY aren't something you want to skimp on and get second hand. Springs you could get away with. I can vouch for the AVS Gas VR6 shocks as I have them all around on the Plum.

That's some good power for the pressure!

Crazy thought.... but you could actually find out what type of the many many carbon fibre configurations the bonnet is made from and then find out at what temperature they delaminate or get damaged. It's almost as if there are engineering answers to these questions...

base suspension models...Pah! You mean the housing is much bigger due to the epic weight and strain of the VR right? *will probably get into trouble for this*

I'm pretty sure the guards will crumple if you tried to run the "road block".

The figures aren't quite right. Says the 9A output is 100kW.

John, I will make you one for 800 Euros :D sorry, been watching the Boosh tonight! lol.