James.

Anyone have first hand experience of selling at auction. Who’s good/ bad etc. Pitfalls, advantages ? They seem to be the places to reach top money and those with collections (eg: people who tend to be too busy/un-interested in crawling around a car with torch on wet Saturday afternoon). Asking for a friend 🙂

Here’s the visors on mine. Looks like they’ve been sewn as a pocket and slip stitched along the upper edge. One of the hinges is a bit stiff and holds itself off the roof liner, which is frustrating. It’ll have to stay that way though, as I’m not likely to find one in a breakers yard 🙂.

Great news. Look forward to the prototypes 😎

Certainly points to lots of small journeys. Wear is similar to mine, but 155k between them 😳. I think auction is where it’s at for this though. General sale is nothing short of a gruel at best, and auctions seem to be bringing the highest results at the moment. I’d like to see underneath though.

So what’s the plan with the engine ? Clean and re-install or a deeper dive ?

Nice work 😎. The blue really pops in the light. Just be careful with those bolts, they can spin the captive nut in the radiator, and then you’re in trouble. Personally, I’d clean them up in situ.

On the Campaign, the trim shop at Karmann created a simple sleeve (in a silmilar way to goldfinger describes) using the same headlining material and stitched them along the top edge. Painting the grey brackets and connectors black in the process. You can still feel the light and vanity mirror underneath. I can put a picture up if you like, but it’s pretty basic.

Good show. Just knew there’d someone either crossing or about to cross that bridge. Yes, keep us updated please. Anyone have a spare one of the above, feel free to get in touch.

Getting the VR ready for an MOT and found the linkage baggier than a clowns pocket (bushes on the lower bar are heavily worn - see image). Anyone worked/working on a solution ? Or have anything NOS they would move on ?

I’ve had the light clusters out and that all seems good. Just returned from the garage, where it appears the brake pedal was short of engaging with the switch (probably from when I removed the servo waaaay back). After half an hour of being folded up in the footwell the battery drain has been cured. It reads 0.09 m/a. Is it safe to assume that number is within spec ? Fuel pump relay still clicks when ignition is on and brakes/wipers/lights are operated though 🤔

Yesterday I had 30 minutes before tea to have another look at the issue. The battery was literally counting down when hooked up and the multimeter. So I pulled all the fuses out and re-installed them one by one. All were tickety-boo and not showing a draw. Until I got to the brake switch fuse. Completing the line up and leaving the brake switch fuse vacant showed a stable multimeter reading. I’m going to have another stab at reading the wiring diagram in Bentley and hopefully locate the issue. As an aside, the brake lights don’t stay on all the time, which to me would suggest a faulty switch ? And would suggest a wiring issue ??

Ah that’s the puppy. Always thought they sat on the front of the block. Maybe it’s a early vs late thing. Or maybe it’s a me vs a logical thing. The jury’s out. The images help a great deal. Thanks all the same.

It’s the group of earths connected in a block of three. I think it should sit north of the oil cooler, but below the intake manifold.

Fingers crossed they won’t, but sadly they mostly do. The pictures help me pick out the missing clips/brackets on mine, so thanks for that. While you’ve got the front end in bits, would you mind taking a picture of where the engine loom earth mount locates please. I think I’ve got it right, but can’t find a picture to be sure.

Good progress. Any bolts put up a fight ?

I didn’t, but in typical fashion, I went to the car this afternoon and overnight the battery has run down to 5v (brand new varta battery). To add insult to injury, the power cable from the battery conditioner had snapped and blown the internal fuse (cue spending an hour testing and hunting round for a spare glass fuse). Conditioner now works and is topping the battery up as I type this. Not even sure what could be draining it. Internal lights were off… It’s not the only thing feeling drained 😔. What’s the best way of identifying a drain ? Start pulling fuses ?

O That was my next move. My question is that if the clicking goes away when the car is running, would it still be the switch ?

What with all the electrical issues the VR is having, (but feeling confident a remedy is around the corner) I thought I may start prepping it for a future potential MOT. I’ve managed to get the brakes “operational”. But they’re softer than an otters pocket, so after a little advice from my local specialist, will attempt to bleed them for a fourth time. Remembering to open up the compensator first. Just as well I went out and bought more dot 4. After mixing up the horn and fog light connectors, it now has a working horn. There’s still some clicking from the relay panel, but we’ll keep chipping away and hopefully get a result sometime soon. The car now has all its fluids present and topped up (eventually). Though after two leaks in the cooling system, (and what sounds like an airlock when the water pump runs), losing half the power steering fluid and me stupidly over pressurising the eezibleed and losing half of that I’m reluctant to fit the slam panel / front bumper yet. With the 8v the bumper would already be on, but space is already limited, and I’ve yet to be convinced the fans are operational. The air con wiring / routing is nothing short of complicated. Excited by the small win with the horn, I attempted the next job, to replace and install the washer jets/pipes. They were stiff and beyond their best, so I called in at the local motor factors and bought 2m of clear 5mm hose and a couple of T connectors. The down side is the wiper blades are 12 years old and a have had better days, so that’s a job for another day. Oh and the wipe pressure from the OE arms is shocking. But we all know that 🙂.

I haven’t noticed a battery drain , but I’ll check that next. Fuse 6 (fans) does blow out every time I turn the ignition on. Not sure if it’s related, but I’m not for ruling anything out at the moment.

Funny, we went to the pub yesterday and half way through my first pint, the penny dropped. Couldn’t wait to test the theory in the garage after dinner and yes, I’d got them mixed up 🙄. But yes, many thanks for the heads up. Saw the two connectors and left them un-connected. But thanks for the advice. I’ve spent another couple of hours trying to chase it down this afternoon. So at this moment in time I have a horn that works. Which means I could conceivably have an MOT test. What I do still have is the remaining fuel pump relay issues. As of now, when and only when the ignition is in the ON position, the following happens: The fuel pump relay operates briefly (2/3 seconds) when: Interior door light is operated Map reading light is operated. Make up/vanity light is operated. Rear window de-mister is operated. Indicators are operated. Brake light switch is operated. When the car is fired up and running, the problems disappear (which tells me it is operating on the lower voltage circuit ?). I’ve poured over the wiring diagrams of Bentley, in a vain attempt to recognise a link between the above. Spent hours upside down in the footwell looking for clues at the front rear of the fuse box. But have hit a wall 😞

Cheers for the guidance. Double checked the earth points on either side. Checked all the fuses and relays were the right ones and in the right position. Dropped the fuse/ relay panel to check all the wiring colours match up (removed a tracker/old alarm/immobiliser and had to re/join solder parts together) still the same. Really frustrating as after getting the car running, and the ABS/brakes fixed. Damned electrickery is holding an MOT up ☹️. I’m trying my best to read (and understand) through bentley, but finding it slow going as it’s like day one of school.

It certainly has the “feeling” of a short and/or bad earth. When I was trying to chase the non start issue, I found the wiring in and around the fuse board was a mess at best (old immobiliser/alarm/tracker wiring). At that point I decided to cut out anything non original and take it back to basics. Tidied it all up, soldered and wrapped any exposed wiring, making sure colour codes were adhered to. Because I did all that before it was running, I’m curious wether I’ve connected up something what shouldn’t have, and/or somethings causing a short. If you have any suggestions as to where to start, I’d be highly appreciative 🙂.

Hmm, back to square one (I think !). I switched the bulbs out one at a time from the 8v. Still clicks when the brake is pressed. Disconnected the pedal switch and the clicking stops. Caught the rear wiper with my arm. That makes it click. So does: Headlight switch. Both interior lights (next to rear view mirror). Rear heated window switch. Fog light (when light switch is on) sounds the horn ! IMG_5607.MOV

Really wanted a VSR for the Campaign, but the outlay and having now decided we've spent enough time together, doesn’t make much sense. Glad they went promptly. I hear what you say regarding buying restored. I was on car and classic at breakfast time eyeing up an early 80s Merc. Some choice rides on that site.

Removed bulbs and no clicking now ! Next step ?