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TimDoc

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Posts posted by TimDoc


  1. lol - was originally looking at the posting on the old i-phone, just looked at the pics on the computer and it is a diff colour to mine - lol - mine is the DBP. iPhones are good - but evidently not that good!

     

    Apologies for unnecessary debate! :ignore: :ignore:

     

    T


  2. Had the car up on stands sirtin out rot under the front end, checking everything ran ok once all put bck in etc and started the car in neutral, and the wheels started turning, checked the stick - defo in neutral - is that mean to happen or is that bad??

     

    T


  3. Sorting out the rust and found lots of little things to do.

     

    The intake manifold vaccum sensor (i think it is) hose is a 3-4mm (internal diameter) that is a braided black rubber hose - see pic below, has frayed lots so replacing - is 4mm fuel line ok as a replacement?? - have fitted one end and its fine for fitment?

    Old

    IMG_1078.jpg

    New

    IMG_1075.jpg

     

    These rusty bolts - guessing they hold the head onto the block i'm guessing, they look in pretty poor nick - if not doing anything down there i guess you just leave well alone?

     

    IMG_1079.jpg

     

    Which coolant should i use - got 3/4 of a bottle left from last time that i got from gsf that has pink fluid in it - but all the writing is in german - that may be a good thing!!??

     

    The bottle that i have ringed in the picture - guessing that this is the powersteering fluid - whats the best and how much is needed??

    IMG_1060-1-1.jpg

     

    Appreciate all help and advice

     

    Tim


  4. Whilst I have the front end off - what else should i do??

     

    I've got the crossmember and the rad mount off and cleaned them back to shiny metal, primed them ready for painting and will be coating them with rust-oleum and then anti-chip paint.

     

    The crackpipe is to be replaced as the oil cooler nozzle has snapped off (whilst i was sorting a bypass pipe).

     

    The radiator and the fan cowling have come off, been taken to pieces and the cowling de-rusted, primed and hammerite'd.

     

    The battery tray has had all rust removed and been primed ready for some hard wearing paint - prob the anti chip stuff.

     

    Looking at the front of the engine, its all a little rusty but not flaking - does this need anything doing??

     

    The started motor (i think it is) looks really rusty and a pipe below it also - doe these need cleaning off or anything else doing to them.

     

    Have got lots of time on my hands so will be working on this for the next 2 weeks.

     

    Pics below

     

    Appreciate any advice/suggestions

     

    Before de-rusting

    IMG_1040.jpg

    IMG_1041.jpg

    After..

    IMG_1068.jpg

    IMG_1071.jpg

     

    The battery plate

    IMG_1061.jpg

     

    The fans

    IMG_1067.jpg

     

    The car as it stands

    IMG_1060.jpg

    The starter motor??

    IMG_1063.jpg


  5. KADVR6 - any chance of some pics to show condition, does the "subframe" include both the piece that the front engine mount is attached to and the piece that the rad sits on??

     

    T


  6. Does the sump have enough strength to take that much weight? Also does anything else need releasing before you lift the engine off it's front mount? Guessing the removal of the front subframe is achieved by removing the bolt between the other two you undo to remove the bumper?

     

    T


  7. can the engine be jacked up and the subframe removed without lifting the engine out completely? Just need to get the radiator mounting bit off but leave the front engine mount in situ.

     

    T


  8. Got the front off the car to get some maintainence cleaning and sorting and to fit an oil cooler. Found a lot of rot on the front subframe (the bit that the rad sits on). The ends of it are almost flaking through, and the middle isnt that strong. Gonna try and source a second hand one. The front engine mount is integrated into this part. Is there any easy way of getting this off to clean it up/replace it without hoisting the engine. Can you jacj up the front of the engine?

     

    Any experience and advice would be helpfull.

     

    Thanks

     

    T


  9. is your headlight switch a little rickety?? if so, when they are about to break, they short the 12v power that goes through the system down the little earth wire that is there to earth the circuits for the leds in the switch, this then cant take the current and melts, letting of (from other peoples descriptions) differing amounts of smoke sometimes v smelly and acrid. Check the lights are working and pull the switch out and check none of the wires in the loom are burnt through.

    T


  10. HIC brokered me a deal with Trinity Lane insurance, agreed value of £6500, pay £20 per year to have it re-assessed and have to send in pics etc.

    Found it difficult to get a better deal with anyone else.

     

    T


  11. The cat back system is £359. That's their website price and what they quoted to me over the phone. I think the boss is American and lives out there most of the time, and the gist I got was that he's a bit of a twat (wasn't there when I was!). He has a web link to a camera in the workshop so be can check up on them! Sounds like a great guy to work for. Sounds like if you managed to catch this guy you might've got an uninterested ear!

     

    Not really surprised that if you were having a new cat fitted the price doubled. Phone again and see how it goes!

     

    T


  12. This one was done by longlife just north of bristol in Berkley, it is a chain but only by name from what i can gather, and the bristol one is privately owned. Lifetime warranty is exactly the reason I went for them, total cost was £359 all inclusive. No hidden costs, plus that got me a cuppa tea! :D

     

    Just reaslised why you asked if it was done in plymouth - need to update my profile as have now moved to bath!!

     

    Tim

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